Timing !!!

[Buffchief]

The idea is that if the rotor is pointing at #1 when you first insert the distributor shaft into the block, the gears (which are angled) will twist the rotor to the wrong location as you push it home. So, you have to start the "wrong" location so that the rotor ends up at the correct location (#1) when the distributor is fully installed.

It's not something you can really take a photo of.

If it helps: forget about any #4 nonsense and just keep experimenting with the position of the rotor before installation. When you find the spot where the rotor is pointing to #1 when fully installed, you've arrived! Again, make sure that the engine is at #1 TDC on the compression stroke while you do this.

Ok thanks. I believe that's where I'm at. I'll Get back on it this evening. I know that last week I had the timing line in view with needle when running but only when turning the distributor fully to the right, clockwise, and it still wouldn't line up. My compression test was 149.5 to 151 across all cylinders if that matters.

 

[Pighead]

I know that last week I had the timing line in view with needle when running but only when turning the distributor fully to the right, clockwise, and it still wouldn't line up.

You don't want the line in your timing light, you want the BB and a little past it.

 

[Buffchief]

You don't want the line in your timing light, you want the BB and a little past it.

I can't see either of them

 

[Buffchief]

Got any local car people you could ask for help. Its like a 5 minute job to correctly set the base timing. I have no use for the vacuum advance/retard dizzy - mine is straight mechanical - rpm's determine the advance way good enough for a tractor.

IDK, I live out in the country. All my people I know work on B-52 TF33 Jet engines!!

 

[Pighead]

IDK, I live out in the country. All my people I know work on B-52 TF33 Jet engines!!

You gotta ask their Dads, or a neighbor who owns a tractor...

 

[charliemeyer007]

My BIL did hydraulics on the B58 Hustler. Myself I learned to fly a J3 cub. Worked on Hiller and Bell 47 and Jet Rangers. My fav was the PW R-985 in the Stearman crop dusters. Nothing beats the roar of a round motor.

 

[Buffchief]

My BIL did hydraulics on the B58 Hustler. Myself I learned to fly a J3 cub. Worked on Hiller and Bell 47 and Jet Rangers. My fav was the PW R-985 in the Stearman crop dusters. Nothing beats the roar of a round motor.

That's cool. My grandfather was some type of builder of the B-58 in Ft. Worth for Convair after the B-36 and then the X-111 project (FB-111 Ardvark) We have a Stearman at my local small airport that takes people up all the time out around my place doing all kinds a maneuver. Sounds great. Can't beat the radial eng sound.

 

[pb4ugo]

Be sure to disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor and plug it b4 setting the timing.

 

[Buffchief]

The two on the side or big one in the top that goes to the firewall?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Hemostat on the vacuum hose will clamp it off nicely. 8" stainless on amoron $7, Two 6 1/4" stainless ones for $8

 

[CruiserInProgress]

The two on the side or big one in the top that goes to the firewall?

The vacuum advance that needs to be plugged when setting your timing are probably two small hoses for your smogged 2F engine, going from your carb (one near the base and not sure about the other on a smogged engine).

They connect to the vacuum advance mechanism attached to the side of your distributor with two small ports on top. This is not part of your cap or its vent system.

They need to be stopped/plugged when setting timing for two reasons. First, you don't want to introduce any leaks in your vacuum system by having an opening to your carb, and second, any vacuum on either of those lines will affect your base timing, in your case advance it.

When setting base timing (with your timing light) you only want your centrifugal advance at play (the weights in the bottom of your distributor).

 

[pb4ugo]

Your idle rpm should be low enuff so that centrifugal advance isn't advancing the timing.

 

[Buffchief]

Your idle rpm should be low enuff so that centrifugal advance isn't advancing the timing.

So I ran it it and had to really back down the carb to find the BB and had to turn the distributor clockwise a good bit and it runs without the choke pulled but runs just kinda of rough. Not sure which step is next. The exhaust leak kind of sputters, not continuous and smooth. Also, there are 2 vacuum lines on the distributor cover and 2 small ones on the side of distributor.

 

[Pighead]

So I ran it it and had to really back down the carb to find the BB and had to turn the distributor clockwise a good bit and it runs without the choke pulled but runs just kinda of rough. Not sure which step is next. The exhaust leak kind of sputters, not continuous and smooth. Also, there are 2 vacuum lines on the distributor cover and 2 small ones on the side of distributor.

Some engines like a bit more advance than just to the BB, try that.
The 2 vacuum lines on the dizzy cap are just vents to reduce ozone accumulation (and, therefore, explosions). One vent went to a filter in the cab and the other went somewhere on the air inlet. I think. The two small vacuum lines go to the vacuum advance mechanism.

 

[charliemeyer007]

How old is your gas? Warm days and cool nights can suck water right out of the air. The paper element in the fuel filter will not let gas by very well if its saturated with water. Put in a yellow bottle of gas dryer.

Leaking exhaust manifold will burn a valve given enough time. Fix it sooner than later.

All that fooling around likely fouled the plugs - take it for a good long hard pull Italian tune up or pull the plugs clean and gap them correctly. Make sure the center electrode is square edged not rounded over. Inside your dizzy cap inspect the contacts leading to the spark plug wires - if it aluminium scrape the contact area - aluminium oxide is an insulator. NAPA Echlin ones had brass contacts. Pull the plugs from the cap one at a time inspect for corrosion on wire clip and the inside of the well - qtip apply a little die electric grease.

 

[1911]

So I ran it it and had to really back down the carb to find the BB and had to turn the distributor clockwise a good bit and it runs without the choke pulled but runs just kinda of rough. Not sure which step is next. The exhaust leak kind of sputters, not continuous and smooth. Also, there are 2 vacuum lines on the distributor cover and 2 small ones on the side of distributor.

The two vacuum lines on the dizzy cap are for the evacuation system that keeps ozone and water vapor from building up in the dizzy. One goes to fresh air in the firewall; the other goes to a VCV and from thence to the air cleaner.

The two vacuum lines on the diaphragm on the side of the dizzy are for advancing the timing. The inner one is for your base timing, and the outer one is controlled by the High Altitude Compensation system that was on late 40’s and 60’s. It adds more timing advance when you are over 4,000 feet elevation, but you need all the stuff from the HAC to make it work. If you don’t have the HAC stuff, you can just plug off the outer nipple on the dizzy.

 

[Buffchief]

The two vacuum lines on the dizzy cap are for the evacuation system that keeps ozone and water vapor from building up in the dizzy. One goes to fresh air in the firewall; the other goes to a VCV and from thence to the air cleaner.

The two vacuum lines on the diaphragm on the side of the dizzy are for advancing the timing. The inner one is for your base timing, and the outer one is controlled by the High Altitude Compensation system that was on late 40’s and 60’s. It adds more timing advance when you are over 4,000 feet elevation, but you need all the stuff from the HAC to make it work. If you don’t have the HAC stuff, you can just plug off the outer nipple on the dizzy.

Thanks I have it all.

 

[Buffchief]

Some engines like a bit more advance than just to the BB, try that.
The 2 vacuum lines on the dizzy cap are just vents to reduce ozone accumulation (and, therefore, explosions). One vent went to a filter in the cab and the other went somewhere on the air inlet. I think. The two small vacuum lines go to the vacuum advance mechanism.

Ok thanks. Do I need to cap the 2 small ones while settling by the timing?
I don't know if I can have it idol much less without dying. As it is the exhaust is not steady.l, ind of chugs, not smooth and constant.
Thank you

 

[Buffchief]

How old is your gas? Warm days and cool nights can suck water right out of the air. The paper element in the fuel filter will not let gas by very well if its saturated with water. Put in a yellow bottle of gas dryer.

Leaking exhaust manifold will burn a valve given enough time. Fix it sooner than later.

All that fooling around likely fouled the plugs - take it for a good long hard pull Italian tune up or pull the plugs clean and gap them correctly. Make sure the center electrode is square edged not rounded over. Inside your dizzy cap inspect the contacts leading to the spark plug wires - if it aluminium scrape the contact area - aluminium oxide is an insulator. NAPA Echlin ones had brass contacts. Pull the plugs from the cap one at a time inspect for corrosion on wire clip and the inside of the well - qtip apply a little die electric grease.

The plugs are fairly new DENSO. I pulled them the other day and gapped them and they looked ok, not wet or oily but kind of light in color.

 

[Pighead]

Ok thanks. Do I need to cap the 2 small ones while settling by the timing?
I don't know if I can have it idol much less without dying. As it is the exhaust is not steady.l, ind of chugs, not smooth and constant.
Thank you

As everyone else has already said, plug the two small vacuum lines to the advance mechanism when you set timing.
Advancing your timing a bit should increase the idle speed some.might smooth it out some. Give it a try