The cause of this problem is actually a bad carbon canister. The gas tank on an 80 is not vented to atmosphere, because of smog requirements it vents through a canister of activated charcoal. When the carbon canister gets saturated or clogged it no longer allows the tank to vent and it pressurizes and forms a vacuum based on the outside temperature. With repeated cold and heat, the tank cracks in its most fragile location. Notice the venting sound or vacuum hiss when you open the cap to fill up with gas??? There you go. Replace your carbon tank (see other forums as these are no longer available from Toyota, but there are a number of aftermarket solutions designed for other vehicles that run between $50 and $100).
leaking gas from top of tank (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jfz80
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I agree on what you wrote totaly...
Since I have gone through this ordeal, I say to the folks out there DO NOT IGNORE A HISSING GAS CAP. It is telling you that the carcol canister needs attention or otherwise you will have more issue down the road like a cracked fuel tank.
Happy Trails You...
This has been an awesome thread but also has me wanting to order a charcoal canister ASAP. My parents 96 fzj80 has developed a fuel leak and after reading this thread, I’m hoping it’s not that same crack a lot of other folks have had. Awesome info here and I’ll report back what we find so as to add another cruiser with this problem if the tank is cracked.
inkpot
SILVER Star
There is a thread on the FSM on how to test the vapor can. If the tank is wet on the side when it is filled up to the top. Then it is too late: its cracked. We have swapped a bunch of them.
Thank you for the heads up! My pops will be getting back into town tomorrow so we’ll be digging into it sometime within the next couple of days. This thread has a lot of useful info, although I probably spent close to an hour reading through everything.
2003 LC & facing this same scenario. Stong gas smell. Replace gas cap & was preparing to replace CC. Ran across this thread & decided to fill up gas tank which i never do. Gas started pouring out onto the ground from off of the tank. Pulled the carpet and look at fuel pump connections & dry as a bone. Filler tube appears to be dry as well. Seems like a cracked tank doesn't it?
Has anyone seen this on a 100 Series?
Any ideas of what else to check before i offload a full tank of gas & start searching for a new/used fuel tank & shield?
Much appreciated.
Has anyone seen this on a 100 Series?
Any ideas of what else to check before i offload a full tank of gas & start searching for a new/used fuel tank & shield?
Much appreciated.
Four years now on my 80 and the patch is still holding!
Hi
Same problem here. Land Cruiser HDJ100, 1999, 4.2 Diesel. Filler and fuel pump completely dry. I live in Germany. We have a lot of salt and snow in the winter.
When I add about 30 to 40 litres, then it begins to leak. So it can't come from the top of the fuel tank, because this is only about one third of the capacity. When I fill the tank completely, than the tank leaks very much. So the hole can also be at the bottom of the tank, because of pressure from the fuel.
I think, it is a rust problem between tank and skid plate. Salt, snow, water, dirt and not possible to clean it.
Regards from Germany
Same problem here. Land Cruiser HDJ100, 1999, 4.2 Diesel. Filler and fuel pump completely dry. I live in Germany. We have a lot of salt and snow in the winter.
When I add about 30 to 40 litres, then it begins to leak. So it can't come from the top of the fuel tank, because this is only about one third of the capacity. When I fill the tank completely, than the tank leaks very much. So the hole can also be at the bottom of the tank, because of pressure from the fuel.
I think, it is a rust problem between tank and skid plate. Salt, snow, water, dirt and not possible to clean it.
Regards from Germany
Ugly Dwarf
SILVER Star
Thanks for the info. Mine started leaking last week. I've swapped the charcoal canister and once I'm able to get more gas out I'll drop the front and try to follow your lead (sand, then JB tank putty).
Add me to the list.
1996 80, running my 2nd Autozone VC-120 charcoal canister since approx 2012, newer gas cap and mine is leaking from approx same area on the forward inboard side of the tank.
The access to fuel pump cover area is dry. Only leaking down pax side and forward when full.
Need to drop tank to confirm though.
1996 80, running my 2nd Autozone VC-120 charcoal canister since approx 2012, newer gas cap and mine is leaking from approx same area on the forward inboard side of the tank.
The access to fuel pump cover area is dry. Only leaking down pax side and forward when full.
Need to drop tank to confirm though.
I wrote a comment on this thread back in Aug. of 2017, and seeing that this thread now has over 200 posts, it's clear this problem hasn't gotten any better. Since this is a MAJOR safety issuer, i hope this doesn't have to claim someone's life before the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration takes action and issues a recall on these tanks. I remember the Pinto, and Crown Vic fires that cost people their lives. Nobody should have to burn to death before our government acts to recall a clearly defective part. Just my 2 cents.
NHTSA works off of filed complaints. Have you filed one?
My tank has not started to leak so I'm not sure that NHTSA would even respond to my inquiry since my tank has not failed.
No offense Dan, but since you worked in a dealership parts department for years, and may of had knowledge of this problem way longer then most members here on Mud. I could ask you the same question, did you, or the dealership you worked for ever report a complaint to NHTSA regarding this issue?
I do think that those Mud members that have had to repair or replace their leaking gas tank should contact NHTSA and file a complaint.
I can't remember our service department ever replacing an 80 gas tank in the 26 years I spent at my dealership. I sold, I think, only one over the counter and that was to Beno (he was working for me at the time) because he smashed his on a rock. I retired in 2016. A lot can happen in 6 years however.
that sad little cruiser. took way more hits than any should ever see. that old ARB of his is still on the front of my rig but its so near death too.
I just did a little research on the NHTSA site.
1991 Land Cruiser. 11 complaints, no tanks.
1992 Land Cruiser. 10 complaints, no tanks.
1993 Land Cruiser. 9 complaints, no tanks.
1994 Land Cruiser. 22 complaints, no tanks.
1995 Land Cruiser. 8 complaints, one fuel tank reported in 2018.
1996 Land Cruiser. 15 complaints, one fuel tank reported in 2019.
1997 Land Cruiser. 16 complaints, one fuel tank reported in 2016.
91 total complaints with three fuel tanks in the 7-year model run.
1996 Chevrolet Tahoe. 342 complaints.
It seems nobody is reporting or this is a very concentrated sample population. It also meshes with my experience as I retired about the time the first complaint was submitted.
I'm not saying this isn't a problem. It is certainly way below the radar.
Wouldn’t it be too late for a recall anyway?
I mean there was never an official recall for the rusty Tacoma frames if I’m not mistaken.
I mean there was never an official recall for the rusty Tacoma frames if I’m not mistaken.
ppc
M Go Blue
I just found and fixed my leaking gas tank, and installed the GM charcoal vent canister.
The gas tank leak was exactly the same location as others show in their photos. Small crack, maybe 1/4” or 5/16”, and it was tight, hard to find. The metal in the area around the crack was slightly distorted. I don’t see the crack increasing in size as long as the charcoal canister does it’s job and keeps the tank from pressure cycling. The tank pressure cycling between pressurized and depressurized causes fatigue failure at the crack initiation site. That’s why the crack is in the same spot on everybody’s tank; the area that gets the most movement from pressure cycling, and a geometry prone to cracking (stamped rib in the tank top). Think of it the same way a piece of metal breaks when you bend it back and forth many times.
It was super simple to partially lower the almost empty (on reserve) tank on a jack, and access the top of the tank from the front. Make sure you disconnect alll hoses, electrical connectors and fill nozzle hose and vent hose. You will need to lower the tank maybe 8” to get enough room to work in there. My truck is lifted 2-1/2” so I was able to sit at an inverted position and get my shoulders and head, and 1 arm up in there to clean the paint off by hand with coarse sandpaper. Or, you can use a grinder and blow-up
I cleaned all the paint off the tank 1-1/2” around the crack I used JB Tank Weld, which is a 2-part putty, I made a putty patch that was 1-1/4” in diameter, and 1/8” thick. I tapered the margins to the tank, and painted any remaining bare metal.
I know there are those out there who likely believe this repair epoxy repair to be sub-standard, but after I looked at the situation, I believe the structural integrity on the tank will remain, post collision, at least up to the point where the original (new) tank would have. It’s a tiny crack and in an area not prone to ripping or failing catastrophically.
Address your leaking tank - I’m glad I did.
The gas tank leak was exactly the same location as others show in their photos. Small crack, maybe 1/4” or 5/16”, and it was tight, hard to find. The metal in the area around the crack was slightly distorted. I don’t see the crack increasing in size as long as the charcoal canister does it’s job and keeps the tank from pressure cycling. The tank pressure cycling between pressurized and depressurized causes fatigue failure at the crack initiation site. That’s why the crack is in the same spot on everybody’s tank; the area that gets the most movement from pressure cycling, and a geometry prone to cracking (stamped rib in the tank top). Think of it the same way a piece of metal breaks when you bend it back and forth many times.
It was super simple to partially lower the almost empty (on reserve) tank on a jack, and access the top of the tank from the front. Make sure you disconnect alll hoses, electrical connectors and fill nozzle hose and vent hose. You will need to lower the tank maybe 8” to get enough room to work in there. My truck is lifted 2-1/2” so I was able to sit at an inverted position and get my shoulders and head, and 1 arm up in there to clean the paint off by hand with coarse sandpaper. Or, you can use a grinder and blow-up
I cleaned all the paint off the tank 1-1/2” around the crack I used JB Tank Weld, which is a 2-part putty, I made a putty patch that was 1-1/4” in diameter, and 1/8” thick. I tapered the margins to the tank, and painted any remaining bare metal.
I know there are those out there who likely believe this repair epoxy repair to be sub-standard, but after I looked at the situation, I believe the structural integrity on the tank will remain, post collision, at least up to the point where the original (new) tank would have. It’s a tiny crack and in an area not prone to ripping or failing catastrophically.
Address your leaking tank - I’m glad I did.
