One more ? If I got the new clutch, would I need to get a new fan as well? Thanks.
LANDTANK fan clutch for S/C 1FZ
- Thread starter cruiserdan
- Start date
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You wouldn't have to use the original fan but that is one of the reasons (bigger and perfectly fits the shroud). The other reason to instal it is if you haven't previously upgraded the fan clutch fluid.
Any updates on this? Dan, do you have some before/after temp data to share?
My water pump to fan clutch studs should arrive this week. I'll try to get some before and after temp numbers running it up the mountain as fast as I can legally push it. As well as some before and after pics.
- Thread starter
- #85
Fit and function are just dandy. The truck is running a bit cooler. I have a trailer towing trip coming up this weekend. I will be taking the Kimberley to Glenn Canyon Dam. 377 miles with hills.
Cool, look forward to hearing what you guys think after putting a few miles on this setup.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
if I paint my existing landtank blue fan clutch orange will it cool my engine better?
- Thread starter
- #88
No. But it will LOOK like it.....
- Thread starter
- #90
I need seating.....
Right now the SC clutches are tuned the same as my Blue hub ones are. So the difference in cooling would be the result of running the stock fan verses the ringed or other fan.
If this proves to fall short of what I'd like to see the next step would be to up the CST of the oil that I''m installing. These are loaded with 15k and people have been running higher oils in them I just haven't seen a need as of yet.
If this proves to fall short of what I'd like to see the next step would be to up the CST of the oil that I''m installing. These are loaded with 15k and people have been running higher oils in them I just haven't seen a need as of yet.
LT Orange Fan Clutch before/after numbers
96, 3 yr old OEM brass radiator, 50/50 Toyota red, treeroot hood louvers, JDM AUX AC electric cooling fan, snorkel, ARB bumper with 7" HIDs mounted front center. 35" tires with stock gearing.
Vehicle driven with AC on around town until operating temp fluctuated between 186-191. Then entered I-40 East on ramp at the I-25 junction in Albuquerque and accelerated to 65 mph indicated (Kenwood GPS listed 71 mph) and set cruise control. Drove all the way to the Tejeras exit which is fairly consistent incline. These are my before and after numbers. Outside air temp based on readings off my Gentex mirror and water temp and intake air temp where based on Scangauge readings.
Spacer, standard blue fan clutch, 3F fan.
Start: 191 water, 100 intake, 80 outside
End : 213 water, 98 intake, 78 outside
No spacer, LT modded orange fan clutch, 1FZ fan
Start: 190 water, 101 intake, 82 outside
End : 203 water, 104 intake, 81 outside
Obviously it runs significantly cooler. My Observations are that the orange fan clutch has a lot more roar than the blue clutch. It would have been a better comparison if I would have had a fluid modded blue fan clutch before. But then I wouldn't have had the same motivation to switch. Both setups positioned the fan in a good location in the shroud but it should be noted that 1FZ fan is roughly 1/2" larger diameter than the 3FE. Also, per Cdan, the 1FZ is engineered for the higher RPMs so that is a legitimate reason for the switch even though I haven't heard of any complications with those using the 3FE fan.
96, 3 yr old OEM brass radiator, 50/50 Toyota red, treeroot hood louvers, JDM AUX AC electric cooling fan, snorkel, ARB bumper with 7" HIDs mounted front center. 35" tires with stock gearing.
Vehicle driven with AC on around town until operating temp fluctuated between 186-191. Then entered I-40 East on ramp at the I-25 junction in Albuquerque and accelerated to 65 mph indicated (Kenwood GPS listed 71 mph) and set cruise control. Drove all the way to the Tejeras exit which is fairly consistent incline. These are my before and after numbers. Outside air temp based on readings off my Gentex mirror and water temp and intake air temp where based on Scangauge readings.
Spacer, standard blue fan clutch, 3F fan.
Start: 191 water, 100 intake, 80 outside
End : 213 water, 98 intake, 78 outside
No spacer, LT modded orange fan clutch, 1FZ fan
Start: 190 water, 101 intake, 82 outside
End : 203 water, 104 intake, 81 outside
Obviously it runs significantly cooler. My Observations are that the orange fan clutch has a lot more roar than the blue clutch. It would have been a better comparison if I would have had a fluid modded blue fan clutch before. But then I wouldn't have had the same motivation to switch. Both setups positioned the fan in a good location in the shroud but it should be noted that 1FZ fan is roughly 1/2" larger diameter than the 3FE. Also, per Cdan, the 1FZ is engineered for the higher RPMs so that is a legitimate reason for the switch even though I haven't heard of any complications with those using the 3FE fan.
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- Thread starter
- #93
Are you in ABQ currently?
It would be interesting to put both trucks on the same hill at the same time and compare numbers. 35s, blower and 4.88s here. Of course I do not have OBDII capability but I do have a mechanical temp gauge with the probe in the upper water neck where the coolant is the hottest as it exits the engine.
It would be interesting to put both trucks on the same hill at the same time and compare numbers. 35s, blower and 4.88s here. Of course I do not have OBDII capability but I do have a mechanical temp gauge with the probe in the upper water neck where the coolant is the hottest as it exits the engine.
Yes. I've been in a couple times to pick up parts. You seemed really slammed with orders so I didn't stick around for chit chat.
Available this weekend depending on how front axle rebuild goes the next couple of days. Pretty impressive how you just grabbed everything I needed off the shelf without looking anything up.
Available this weekend depending on how front axle rebuild goes the next couple of days. Pretty impressive how you just grabbed everything I needed off the shelf without looking anything up.
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- Thread starter
- #95
I'm working Saturday, off Sunday.
You are running the ringed fan with LT modded blue fan clutch?
- Thread starter
- #97
Nope. Correct fan with the new orange clutch (a beta field tester).
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
So I have been reading up a bit on the optimal dimensions for a fan and shroud and the consensus seems to be that 1/2 of the fan blade deepness (ie: thinkness) should be inside of the shroud and the tip to shroud should be at 1/2 of spacing.
I am considering purchasing one of these orange units but want to see how they fit with the stock fan inside of the shroud. Can someone whom has installed the orange clutch with the stock fan post up and show us? and if you don't mind take some measurements of tip to shroud spacing as well as fan blade thickness inside of the shroud?
I am going to go take some measurements on my 3fe spacer setup and see what they come out to and will post some pics.
I am considering purchasing one of these orange units but want to see how they fit with the stock fan inside of the shroud. Can someone whom has installed the orange clutch with the stock fan post up and show us? and if you don't mind take some measurements of tip to shroud spacing as well as fan blade thickness inside of the shroud?
I am going to go take some measurements on my 3fe spacer setup and see what they come out to and will post some pics.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
just posting a few things I found on the net:
"Air does not move front to back out at the tips of the fan blades, it moves "Outward."
You need the fan PARTIALLY outside the shroud (we could argue about just how far out) but if it's outside the shroud the air can make natural movement out and away from the fan shroud... If the entire fan (or too much of it) is inside the shroud the outward motion of air at the tips will simply cause turbulance inside the fan shroudwhich isn't productive to your radiators ability to cool.
I have always figured something in the range of 1/2 to 3/4 of the fan blades outside the shroud."
"Air does not move front to back out at the tips of the fan blades, it moves "Outward."
You need the fan PARTIALLY outside the shroud (we could argue about just how far out) but if it's outside the shroud the air can make natural movement out and away from the fan shroud... If the entire fan (or too much of it) is inside the shroud the outward motion of air at the tips will simply cause turbulance inside the fan shroudwhich isn't productive to your radiators ability to cool.
I have always figured something in the range of 1/2 to 3/4 of the fan blades outside the shroud."
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
"The idea obviously is to create a Vacuum inside the shroud ... close tolerance between the blades and the shroud and proper placement of the fan (front to back) at the lip of the shroud are the important factors. "
