Land Tank Caster correction plates for 2.5 inch lift. (2 Viewers)

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So this brings up at point for me, my LX450 is right at 19 inches from center hub to fender flare with stock well used springs and plan on running the Dobinsons Tapered 3.5 inch Springs like @RaleighCJ just installed in his LX450 which put him at 24 3/4 inches front and 25 inches in the rear so I'm thinking the @landtank 4 inch Caster Correction Plates ??

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So this brings up at point for me, my LX450 is right at 19 inches from center hub to fender flare with stock well used springs and plan on running the Dobinsons Tapered 3.5 inch Springs like @RaleighCJ just installed in his LX450 which put him at 24 3/4 inches front and 25 inches in the rear so I'm thinking the @landtank 4 inch Caster Correction Plates ??

wiECL8.jpg

6jSYIK.jpg

RQOjUu.jpg

4oTl3U.jpg
Of note, my lift was ordered with to be used with a front bullbar, winch, rear tire carrier and roof rack. I have not installed any of these items yet.
 
I fully endorse how O/C-D Rick is on geometry.

I bought a set of his 4” FR plates early on, and he sold me the geometry for LCA’s out back to hit dead-neutral as compared to stock height characteristics.

I owned both my 4” Slee Heavy / Slee Hvy-progressives RR 80 at the same time I owned the ~360K 40th AE on tired stock springs - both behaved the same on pavement & even when towing ~4500#’s.

Braking alone plus a 5.7 3UR to hit highway speeds is why I bought the Tundra, otherwise a forced manifold 1FZ with Rick’s correction on a lifted 80 is very safe.

My 4” lift 80 is available for unbelievers in the greater Skagit area.

@NLXTACY knows I’m far from a huckster, but Rick nailed the “rotate vs. pivot” debate. I pimp his suspension geometry whenever we have the talk, it’s that good IMO.
 
I thought the OME offset caster bushings were all that was needed for a 2.5" lift. I haven't had any issues with mine. What do these plates do that the bushings don't? Just curious to see what I might be missing. :hmm:

Caster changes about 1.74* per inch of lift. So if your ride height is lifted by 2.5" then you will need to influence caster by 4.35*.

OME yellow bushings are considered to be a 2* bushing. No where near enough to get the caster back to stock.
 
Caster changes about 1.74* per inch of lift. So if your ride height is lifted by 2.5" then you will need to influence caster by 4.35*.

OME yellow bushings are considered to be a 2* bushing. No where near enough to get the caster back to stock.
The reviews you've received for your plates are enough to convince me. Appreciate this info, but it makes me wonder why OME sold the bushings and the info that they were adequate. Back in 2004 when I installed my OME lift & bushings, IIRC opinions here on mud were that the yellow bushings were maybe not even needed. Only install if needed. I've only questioned that my caster was off since my front axle rebuild in which the trunion bearings were replaced.
 
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Pls correct me if wrong, but something no one has mentioned so far is that the cc plates will actually slightly shorten your stock wheelbase. I honestly would've gone the route of Delta arms had I known they were available prior to perma-cutting into my stock axle to fit the plates.

Correction bushings are a waste of time, imho. I went from negative caster with the bushings to positive 4 with the ccp.

Two questions:

-Will unpainted plates rust?

-In what type of use case are those pinch welds necessary?
 
while the 2.5 plates do slighty shorten the distance between the axle and the frame mount the axle at 2.5" of lift would be otherwise in a position that would measure as a longer wheel base. So the net difference is negligible.

My 4.0 plates require you to drill new mounting holes fron and rear and rotates the axle in place and there is no change in the front axles position. Any wheel base shortening is from the rear axle's position as the multi-link setup.
 
while the 2.5 plates do slighty shorten the distance between the axle and the frame mount the axle at 2.5" of lift would be otherwise in a position that would measure as a longer wheel base. So the net difference is negligible.

My 4.0 plates require you to drill new mounting holes fron and rear and rotates the axle in place and there is no change in the front axles position. Any wheel base shortening is from the rear axle's position as the multi-link setup.

Rick,
I have a 94 FZJ80 with OME 850 front and 864 rear lift with ome 2* caster bushings installed, sitting unloaded my caster sits at 0.9* and 0.8*. I'm looking to buy your plates and wondering if I should get 2.5 set or 4.0 set, what do you say?
Thanks.
 
can you give me the measurement from the center of the hub to the underside of the fender flare? I think the 2.5" plates would work but want to make sure.

Its sitting at 2.25" on both sides.
 
Since this will eventually apply to the 2.5” plates too...

Now that the #LANDTANK Caster correction plates have been around for a few years now, some folks are putting in enough miles to need to replace Caster bushings again. Or folks are redoing all suspension bushings to get a better road feel. Well if you do need to replace your Caster bushings specifically then you will need to follow the same OEM process by also replacing the Caster bolts since they are single time use.


But if you have Caster plates your bolts are 1/4” longer than stock bolts. These new bolts are now available to make sure you are following the suggested OEM hardware replacement schedule when replacing bushings.

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I just got new stock bushings in the mail. Great timing... I'll check out the website for new bolts.

EDIT:

Mind posting a link?
 

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