Builds Keaton's '03 LX470 Thread (1 Viewer)

[128keaton]

I also cleaned my engine bay (easier to work on a clean engine):

Did some touch up on my skid:

And finally, all the old diff bushings, not bad for 235k:

 

[128keaton]

Made some more progress in diagnosing the throbbing vibration. I didn't get a chance to drop the rear DS yet (working two jobs), but its very rumbly above 50MPH. I tried recording it with my phone, but it was raining on the interstate, so all you hear is the rain hitting the windshield. I did get the tires balanced this weekend. I checked all four wheels, but I wasn't able to determine if any of the bearings were the culprit. I just jacked up each end and spun the tire, listening for any noises, and tried to pull it back and forth. I wonder if its something in my rear diff? With the front diff bushings being replaced, so far, the car has felt the best it ever has on the highway (no more shaking it seems), its just this pulsing/throbbing vibration now. This was happening before the transmission replacement, so I don't think it is anything related to that at all.

 

[128keaton]

New corner light!

 

[128keaton]

I finally got around to replacing my lower AHC bushings in the shocks. What a PITA. I couldn't get the bushings out in place, so I removed both rams and tried to press out with my big press. Wouldn't budge. Ok. I subscribe to the mentality of "can't be tight if its a liquid" so there was no way these weren't coming out.

I drilled four holes opposite each other in the bushing with a drill bit just large enough to grab the metal on the outer wall of the bushing. I used a torch to heat the rubber up and then used an air chisel to push the center metal part out of the rubber. Then, I grabbed a saw-zall to cut a section of the outer wall from the bushing. Finally, I used a flathead screwdriver and the air chisel to bend/push the bushing out. Slightly nicked the shock's bushing surface, but at this point, I'd been struggling on this for two days, so I did not care.

I found removing the AHC shock easier if you bent the inner fender in a bit so you could access the top shock nut with an impact. A 7/8" socket fit perfectly.

I then just pressed the new bushings in and re-installed the shocks. I filled the AHC reservoir back up, started the truck and let the system fill itself, bleed, and repeat.

This was right when I let the car down, before the AHC system had been reinitialized:
Untitled by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

Low rider mode.

I also FINALLY replaced the fuel injectors, which sadly did not fix the idle issue. Going to eventually do a compression check and a vacuum leak check. The majority of my hoses are in good shape, no cracking, but I'd hate to find a cylinder with real low compression.

Installing the injectors was easy enough, just MAKE SURE you grease the o'rings with Vaseline, A+D, or a similar petroleum based lubricant that won't react with gas. The truck runs smoother and starts up quicker with rebuilt, 12-hole Denso injectors, but the originals had 235k so that is anecdotal at best.

Had a friend visit the shop this weekend, so I had a bit of fun with his project Miata:

Untitled by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

(zoom in on where the emblem should be )

 

[128keaton]

Went off the deep-end and bought some of the WTV-UK spheres since I'm not in a hurry and $1k for OEM spheres is just nuts. There were some JP sellers for around $800 a while back, but those are all gone off Ebay.

WTV-UK = Toyota LandCruiser Upgrade Sphere Accumulator Kits

Toyota LandCruiser, Lexus LX470, LX570, Sahara = AHC Alternative Upgrade Replacement Spheres/Accumulators Suspension Kits

www.lpg-kits.com

I've still got to replace the rear bushings, but this should put me at a near-new system. I hoped the bushings were the final problem, and they helped on some road cracks, but any quick, small hit is still very rough. Speed bumps are okay. I replaced the front spheres with some unknown milage units and those made a big difference, but the rears are still original. OEM rear spheres are close to $500 for a set, so I figured replacing all four for around $750 was a good deal. Plus, when I bled the fronts, it was very, very foamy indicating that the front spheres are on their way out.

 

[128keaton]

Actually, if I replace the rear springs, I'll be at near new. My rear pressures are on the edge of being a 'problem'

 

[128keaton]

Wow! So I just replaced my globes with the set from WTV. Car rides like a "magic carpet" (to quote other users with working AHC)

The new globes came in a week from the UK. Very fast. Came with a wrench. The globes were packed VERY well, with covers over the threaded side of the globes. Installation was easy. Just bleed the accumulators until no more fluid comes out. I used a setup pictured below to capture the fluid as I have flushed my system twice.

Then, I just used the included wrench to remove the old spheres, thread the new ones on, and then use the wrench to tighten. Filled the AHC reservoir up, started the car to let it pressurize, and then I bled the accumulators to get any air out.


My NEW pressures according to Techstream:

Looks like I have to back off the bolts on my T-bars a bit.

Target front pressure is 6.8 - 6.9MPa
Target rear pressure is 5.6 - 6.7MPa


Here is the kit I bought:

Landcruiser Amazon y1998-2007 "COMFORT KIT" AHC Suspension Accumulator Spheres | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Landcruiser Amazon y1998-2007 "COMFORT KIT" AHC Suspension Accumulator Spheres at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[128keaton]

Finally got the truck aligned after FAR too long. Was one of those things where I kept saying "yeah, I'll get to it this weekend" lol.

Looks like I need to replace some control arm bushings soon..right? they tried to tell me the front shock bushings could be worn to the point of it pushing the arm out like that. I disagree...

 

[128keaton]

Well, I think I finally found my source of vibration. Tore the front down to the hubs and spindles and found that there was a bit of grab when spinning the CV + hub on the passenger side (not the hub only), therefore, the inner spindle bearing is going. I can hear a "squeak squeak" when driving next to a wall on that side. What absolutely sucks is that this side was already completely disassembled once for new wheel bearings and races. So, it all comes apart again this weekend. I also noticed my car had a bit of a "gangster lean"

The driver's side AHC shock was slightly wet on the bottom half, leaving me to believe an inner seal was blown. A new one from Bell Lexus is arriving today. On the other side, the bushing still needed to be changed. I used a 22mm offset wrench and a pipe wrench to remove the shock. Luckily, I don't have a single lick of rust on this truck, so it was mostly uneventful aside from two things. First, I forgot to loosen the bleeder to remove pressure from the system. Second, after I removed the sway bar, I forgot that the shock is what limits the rear axle. So, in short, I sprayed a bunch of hydraulic fluid on myself AND dropped an axle on myself. The bushing replacement was uneventful, frustrating, but uneventful. I did learn I need new rear swaybar endlinks and new rear trailing arm bushings, but that will have to wait. I found some Poly AHC upper shock bushings on eBay a while back and found they were pretty close to how firm the OEM material was. I will swap the new poly bushing to the new AHC shock when it arrives.

I also changed the gear oil in my front diff and transfer case. Both came out clean, but well used, leaving me to believe that it wasn't changed at the last "60k" service (just like the neglected bearings). The more and more I tear into this truck, the more and more I find that those service records pretty much don't mean jack. Lubed up all the zerks on the drive line, for safe measure. I also have a new Denso coilpack to swap around to see if the 700 RPM idle shake is due to a coil pack, but I'm not holding my breath. Pretty sure its a motor mount, as it got worse when I changed the transmission mount out. It just runs too well for it to be misfiring.

A friend bought a house 2.5hrs away, so I need to get the shock changed and the bearing replaced before I hit the road this weekend.

 

[128keaton]

Long time no see.

Not a whole lot has happened since last post. Just lots of miles and time. The rear/front vibration is continuing to get worse, so I ordered a new t-case output shaft bearing and seal. I believe it has had some minor play for sometime. I need to order some Green Grease or whatever for my driveshaft.

I'm also thinking I should replace the inner spindle bearing on the drivers side, but the PS was pretty decent. I also ordered some new rear sway bar components, new fog lamp bulbs, and Pfran's CV boot clamp kit to see if I can salvage my OEM PS axle. Otherwise, its some sort of bearing elsewhere (like the front diff :/).

@2001LC mentioned in another thread that I should do an ATF flush now, and I agree. On the list of 'to-do' with rotation & balancing of tires.

I did replace the leaking rear AHC shock. I removed and cleaned all three height sensors, none showed any signs of corrosion.

A couple of weeks ago, I added the inner-console coin tray and let me tell you, worth the $20. Way easier to keep things organized.

My Lexus also picked up a new friend!

 

[128keaton]

I took delivery of my new fog bulbs, sway bar bushings, and some 'Gummi Pflege Stift' for the door seals. The fog light change ended up being a bit of an adventure. At this point, the LX will need a new fender, new headlights, new headlight surrounds, new inner fender, new lower splash apron piece, new hood seal, and new fog housings to satisfy me. Whatever sideswiped PO did a number on everything.

I learned that the fog housing was shattered completely:

Awesome. Thats why the fog was blown in the first place. Surprised the turn signal bulb still worked with that much water/dirt stuck in there.

Think this bulb has a few more miles left?

I replaced them with $7 HELLA LEDs that are a nice light shade of yellow.

I "fixed" the cracked assembly with some 3M window weld and plastic sheeting. Just to hold me over until the new housing arrives.

Sealing on the front looks terrible, but not noticeable in the bumper. Like I said, something temporary to hold me over for a bit.

 

[128keaton]

Finally got the driver's side CV and hub flange replaced. Pictured below are my two OEM CVs:

Made a huge difference in the 'clunk' that has been a personal plague of mine. I ordered a new passenger side hub flange after seeing the difference it made. Pretty sure both my OEM CVs need new boots, but the teeth are too worn on outboard side, I believe, to re-use.

Still waiting for the C-clip to seat :/

I finally replaced the rear swaybar bushings and endlinks and boy, it made a pretty big difference in how the car felt on the road.
I also took care of the majority of the idle vibration issue. Ran a whole can of Seafoam thru the intake and now its barely noticeable. Going to run another can through this weekend as well as change the oil.

 

[128keaton]

Quick question: I was driving it around in traffic today, which means sub-15mph speeds, and when I would accelerate from a roll, I'd feel a thud in the back when the transmission downshifted. Is this the infamous driveshaft thud/clunk or something transmission related? TIA.

 

[2001LC]

Most common is drive line needs lubing. Lube them again. If still present look to the rear control arm bushing, upper and lower.
Also make sure you spare tire is crank up tight

 

[128keaton]

Most common is drive line needs lubing. Lube them again. If still present look to the rear control arm bushing, upper and lower.
Also make sure you spare tire is crank up tight

Will do! I know the bushings in the rear aren’t the best, but I’ll double check to make sure that they aren’t 100 percent gone.

 

[128keaton]

I greased the driveshafts and u-joints, though I didn't need to put much in. Made a small difference. I attempted to cross level by adjusting my torsion bars, but found no such luck in getting the truck fully level and now the truck rides rougher. Agh. Tomorrow I'll take another stab at it. I did replace the hub flange, nuts, and lock nut on the passenger side. I have this funny clicking noise on the driver's side that started after replacing the CV. I thought it was the C-clip, but even after re-seating (and making sure it seated) it still clicks when turning. Tomorrow the flange comes off and I'm gonna check that the preload was set correctly on the wheel bearings. It never ends, lol. That and the stupid interior rattles.

 

[128keaton]

Turns out my loose flange hub damaged my DS front wheel bearing. I guess it was that loose. I took the time to go ahead and replace the front sway bar end links. I also used my new OEM nuts/lock washer on reassembly of the hub. The old ones have lived their serviceable life:

As had the old endlinks:
LX sway endlinks by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

I'm also toying with the idea of replacing the rear springs, as my rear pressures are 0.8MPa off. The rear bobs noticeably compared to the front when going over bumps. I don't think a spacer will help much. Are OEM Lexus AHC rear springs still "the move"?

Looks like the 06/07 LC with AHC has the part numbers 48231-6A770 (RH) and 48231-6A780 (LH). At least I think so after reading a few threads (Anyone can confirm?). Very tempting if the Toyota coils are the same spring rate. Very affordable.

 

[ChuckB]

I did OEM LX coils and Slee rear 30mm spacers. I believe I over-compensated for my current vehicle weight. Unloaded it rides pretty well. With even slight additional weight it rides even better. I don't recall my pressures, it's been about 2 years since I did the swap.

My recommendation would be to seriously consider your mods and intended payload requirement and set it up for how you plan to run the majority of the time.

 

[128keaton]

I did OEM LX coils and Slee rear 30mm spacers. I believe I over-compensated for my current vehicle weight. Unloaded it rides pretty well. With even slight additional weight it rides even better. I don't recall my pressures, it's been about 2 years since I did the swap.

My recommendation would be to seriously consider your mods and intended payload requirement and set it up for how you plan to run the majority of the time.

Thanks for the input. Thats honestly why I haven't purchased them yet, I don't really know what the plans are for the truck other than just driving it.

 

[128keaton]

The LX is finally leveled-ish. The driver's side does not sag anymore. The rear is sitting a bit lower than spec, but still toying with new coil springs. I saved a chunk of cash for a new fender, which is now up in the air.

Two days ago, I drove an hour and a half to pick up a new passenger side front fender. When I got there, the fender had not yet arrived. So I turned around and headed back. 30 minutes away from home, and I'm pulled over and issued a ticket. Yikes

I did forget to mention this earlier: two weeks ago I left my LX with my trusted Toyota dealer to take a look at the rough idle at 900rpm and the pulsing vibration 55mph+. I was told that two cylinders (don't remember which two) have a PSI difference greater than 14psi (Spec), that they were closer to 20 psi. The others are fine, which causes the miss. Guess I should run some sand through the intake to make the other cylinders even. They really had only one theory for the pulsing vibration, simply that the suspension wasn't designed for tires like these. Not really happy with the results I got, but at least a Toyota house couldn't track down the issues I was chasing.