KDSS - UNfrozen! :) How I did it... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter NLScooby
- Start date
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Markuson
SILVER Star
I think he simply meant to coat the non-stuck...non-open...dry screws with it to protect from future rust.
Pretty much. I can't recall how many threads show after three turns by get at least some anti-seize on there. I'm sure the fluid film alone would work. The top section of the valve is generally what gets stuck.
Get a can of fluid film, blast some on the closed valves. Then, if you're feeling fancy, blast the rest of your undercarriage for added protection.
I am not a rust Dr. but i would think twice about trying to cover a known piece of cast that seems to rust when exposed to o2 with some kind of paint or under coating or the like. Rust migrates under the layer of bonding sealant with moisture that we have all seen.
My thought is to apply and reapply as needed a rust inhibitor we used on aircraft hardware, battery terminals and the like. The stuff is called LPS 3 its an oil base spray that leaves a heavy wax layer when it dries in a few minutes.
lpslabs.com/product-details/612
amazon.com/2-Pack-LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor/dp/B01N3RZI0J
loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm
LPS 3 will flow as you spray it on so you can use a small paint brush or mop to slather it around the back of the KDSS unit.
If the rust is really bad, use some Naval Jelly first then reapply LPS 3 or a similar product that will migrate or flow even a year latter.
My thought is to apply and reapply as needed a rust inhibitor we used on aircraft hardware, battery terminals and the like. The stuff is called LPS 3 its an oil base spray that leaves a heavy wax layer when it dries in a few minutes.
lpslabs.com/product-details/612
amazon.com/2-Pack-LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor/dp/B01N3RZI0J
loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm
LPS 3 will flow as you spray it on so you can use a small paint brush or mop to slather it around the back of the KDSS unit.
If the rust is really bad, use some Naval Jelly first then reapply LPS 3 or a similar product that will migrate or flow even a year latter.
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Just another reminder to check your KDSS Valves. The rest of the undercarriage is spotless, the KDSS not so much.
Thankfully not frozen and I was able to open them relatively easily. I used a wire brush to clean them up
and then sprayed some rust/corrosion inhibitor and some plastispray
Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on the KDSS
Thankfully not frozen and I was able to open them relatively easily. I used a wire brush to clean them up
and then sprayed some rust/corrosion inhibitor and some plastispray
Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on the KDSS
I have a test of sorts underway, however, as a scientist I learned long ago that the collection of data takes time. I read about the dreaded KDSS corrosion problems before I picked up my new LC. I considered various options to head this off at the pass and decided to use LPS-3. I drove the new vehicle 20 miles from the dealership, pulled off the plate to reveal a nice bright shiny new valve and slathered it with LPS-3. I had a tube of high quality marine grease in hand but opted for the former. My intention is to do the same at least at every 5k oil change and maybe at closer intervals. Either what I did should work/help, and others may benefit from my data years down the road, or some one will continue the experiment with another option so that the entire Mud community will benefit.
- Thread starter
- #47
Wow - and you are in Texas! Not exactly known for rust and salty roads!
- Thread starter
- #48
Excellent - I look forward to your results over time. I'm sure future owners will thank you too!
Thanks for the tips. I crawled under my 600 Mi. LC, found the valve, hit it with some Emery Cloth (just to make sure it's fairly clean), then liberally slathered it with marine grease. Will repeat this every oil change. Hopefully, this preventative measure helps me side-step the ugliness shown in some of the pictures here.
We have done a couple. We sprayed but with no success. Ended up heating them with a torch and came loose. I have had a few other clients that have gotten toyota to warranty them. Just an FYI.
Anyone working on a cover that would do a better job covering the KDSS valves? Seems like replacing the cover with something that is sealed would go a long way to preserving the valves. It's not like you need access to those two hex screws very often, and when you do you could just pull the cover off. It would need to be more than just covering the bottom holes since any moisture that gets up in there needs to drain, and the current cover wouldn't stop stuff from splashing around it and accumulating.
If I had any metalworking ability I would try to fab this.
If I had any metalworking ability I would try to fab this.
- Thread starter
- #52
Build it and they will come.....
Markuson
SILVER Star
I'm thinking a very simple cover that is utterly looped up with heavy grease will stay on, and keep the grease from being splashed off. So long as there is no air in there...only grease...I think it would provide some additional protection.
Markuson
SILVER Star
That's what I do, and any time I check, its thick goopy-ness is still goin goopy-strong...
I did that in late Nov when we had the oil last changed. When I checked it this weekend it was looking rustier than I'd like to see. Even with a mild winter, limited salt, and hitting the undercarriage semi-regularly at the car wash, Chicago is still going to eat the KDSS valve alive.
If (when) it ever needs to be replaced, I'd consider getting the replacement PC'ed before installation. Even still, and even with the shroud (which seems to really just be for rock protection), it's sitting in a fairly exposed area.
I wasn't thinking about trying to completely seal it from moisture, but rather to prevent the constant splashing and spraying against it when driving on salted roads.
Yeah I was thinking for the time being I'd try to wire brush it, prime, and paint with some rustoleum before I re-coat with grease.
Anyone tried POR-15 on their valve? Risk of seizing the hex bolts? I feel like marine grease or similar should be used on the threads to keep them from rusting, but the rest of the valve should be protected by some sort of paint.
