KDSS - UNfrozen! :) How I did it...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I Was down in the area scraping rust this morning, before coating with LPS3. I noticed this cord that tucked into the frame. I then realized it was attached to nothing. Anybody know what this is? Pardon my rusty underside, I'm slowly working on improving things 1 at a time.

IMG_1475.webp
 
Post cleanup pic. Still not pretty, but much better than it was. Loosened the KDSS bolts 3 turns, coated the threads with Permatex anti-seize, then coated the entire area with LPS3 rust inhibitor

IMG_1478.webp
 
DPA200 said:
I I noticed this cord that tucked into the frame. I then realized it was attached to nothing. Anybody know what this is?
Click to expand...

It's discussed in posts 14 - 21 in this thread; generally believed to be something for a Lexus, either power for illuminated side steps or related to AHC something or other. I forget if I've seen a definitive answer, but it's a regular question once people stumble upon it down there.
 
Someone mentioned heat as an option to get the set screws loose.

Did anyone else try heat? My 200 also has a lean now. Face palm, I should have listened first.
 
Dilspec said:
Someone mentioned heat as an option to get the set screws loose.

Did anyone else try heat? My 200 also has a lean now. Face palm, I should have listened first.
Click to expand...
Be very careful with the heat, there are some seals in there that could grenade on you. In fact IMHO I would avoid heat.
 
RET2 said:
Be very careful with the heat, there are some seals in there that could grenade on you. In fact IMHO I would avoid heat.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up.

We disconnected a sway bar, wrestled to get it back on now that side is leaning bad. Haha poor decision on my part.
 
Believe it or not sometimes a spirited romp around the countryside and park it seems to settle things back to normal.
 
The heat generated by a mig welder attaching a nut to the KDSS screw seemed to do more to loosen it (on mine) than the added purchase of the nut. It was way too easy to open after the nut was welded on - it had to be the weld heat. I haven't put a torch to it though.
 
Just a quick update for reference if anyone else runs into this issue. Mine were pretty bad, thought my only option was the dealer for a replacement unit. I did break a 5mm socket.

Used a wire-wheel to knock off all the rust, I let it soak in penetrating oil for a few hours cleaned it off, and used MAP gas on the set screws (~10-15 seconds) each screw and it worked flawlessly.

I agree welding a nut to it will be enough for it to break loose too. If anyone is going to put a torch to it, i'd suggest 10-15 seconds or so, but be very careful.

Also, as a precautionary measure I cleaned the threads with brake cleaner and applied anti-sieze to the threads and then coated that area with grease. I'll most likely open these every year and apply something else there before winter.

Thanks again to all the contributors and to anyone reading through the thread with similar issues good luck!
 
Dilspec said:
Just a quick update for reference if anyone else runs into this issue. Mine were pretty bad, thought my only option was the dealer for a replacement unit. I did break a 5mm socket.

Used a wire-wheel to knock off all the rust, I let it soak in penetrating oil for a few hours cleaned it off, and used MAP gas on the set screws (~10-15 seconds) each screw and it worked flawlessly.

I agree welding a nut to it will be enough for it to break loose too. If anyone is going to put a torch to it, i'd suggest 10-15 seconds or so, but be very careful.

Also, as a precautionary measure I cleaned the threads with brake cleaner and applied anti-sieze to the threads and then coated that area with grease. I'll most likely open these every year and apply something else there before winter.

Thanks again to all the contributors and to anyone reading through the thread with similar issues good luck!
Click to expand...
I don’t recall seeing any threads after turning three times. Did you back them out further than three turns, or did I not look closely enough??
 
I popped my valves open 1.5 years ago when I installed my lift. When finished, applied some multipurpose grease (nothing fancy) to the outside surface.

Today I revised the lift. When I went to loosen the valves, they broke free easily.

Applying grease as a preventative measure definitely works.
 
Thanks for the numerous posts on this topic. it doesn't look too bad, does it? I am about to put some work into mine to see if I can break it free (where the shop wouldn't), before welding on...

IMG_1999.webp
 
After a few minutes with the grinder, they still look meh. Off to find some Kroil and a Snap On hex socket of the 5mm variety. If that does not work, I may try a torch as one of the earlier posts note working.

IMG_2003.webp
 
Not sure if this info would help but I deal with a lot of stripped hex screw in the medical world...
Besides all the tried and true methods mentioned above, I’ve used some of these techniques doing other car work.

sometimes try to tighten the screw just a touch. It can break up adhesions.

If hex head starting to strip. A thin piece of aluminum foil or a piece of metal shim stock placed over the hex head and inserting the hex driver so the metal wraps around the driver and fills in some gaps can help

inserting the driver and giving it a good rap with a mallet and continue tapping it while turning to help break the adhesions and keep the driver seated.

these may all not be up to task for the infamous KDSS rusted screws but made me think of it reading this thread
 
Last edited:
Use a dental style pick to clean around the base of the screw to aid saturation of what ever products you're using.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom