Upon further review.....
I think this connector may be the:
"Front Shock Absorber Control Valve Assembly" connector..... I suppose this is for the Lexus versions with the adjustable suspension?
Did you try using a stiff wire brush and/or dental pick to loosen and remove rust around the head of screw? I think the light tapping on the head of the screw (all around) and tapping of an inserted hex key will help as well.
Compared to others, mine looked really bad....
Now if you have tried to drive phillips heads or torx bits in there, you may have made it more difficult to remove by deforming the screw head a little or expanding it within the cavity.....(my theory)
Did you try using a stiff wire brush and/or dental pick to loosen and remove rust around the head of screw? I think the light tapping on the head of the screw (all around) and tapping of an inserted hex key will help as well.
Compared to others, mine looked really bad...
Yes, I have used a wire brush and and a pick. I must say I can see the outline or recess of the bolt much more clearly than when I began, but buggers wont budge. One hex bolt is now officially rounded and the other is FUBAR due to breaking off allen wrench in the bolt.
I PM'd Slee who told me they have unbolted sway bars during installs and then persuaded sway bars back to their original position using jacks.
Yes, I have used a wire brush and and a pick. I must say I can see the outline or recess of the bolt much more clearly than when I began, but buggers wont budge. One hex bolt is now officially rounded and the other is FUBAR due to breaking off allen wrench in the bolt.
I PM'd Slee who told me they have unbolted sway bars during installs and then persuaded sway bars back to their original position using jacks.
Sorry to hear that - I'm not sure what the difference could be...
But I have to say I am flabbergasted at my luck in this case as the opposite is usually what I encounter (and have come to expect).
As my neighbor says, "Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while."
I took my 2014 in to the dealer and they are going to replace the KDSS valve that is rusted under warranty. Talked to the tech and Toyota is starting to deal with a few of these parts that rust. He liked the grease on the threads idea and also suggested I wrap it to protect from the elements since it isnt something used very often if at all
Sorry Steve,
I just saw you had addressed this post to me! Did you try the ziplock experiment? One of the keys to my success may have been that I literally sprayed it and tapped it a half a dozen times over the period of a few weeks....and then several more times just before cracking it open. I wasn't in a rush since I don't have a lift picked out yet.
Patience, grasshoppers!
I'm thinking the same treatment. The local Lowe's has Plasti Dip, but not in all colors. I'm also thinking about a coat or 2 of marine-grade red primer.
If you didn't have bad luck you'd have no luck at all. Keep spraying the MF and rattle it. I've never used this oil but I'm going to order some because you never know when you'll need it.
If you didn't have bad luck you'd have no luck at all. Keep spraying the MF and rattle it. I've never used this oil but I'm going to order some because you never know when you'll need it.
Kroil has the best penetration of anything I've tried. ATF / acetone, 50 /50, is almost as good. Downside of Kroil is that it evaporates fast, so you may want to hit it a few times a day.
I'm thinking the same treatment. The local Lowe's has Plasti Dip, but not in all colors. I'm also thinking about a coat or 2 of marine-grade red primer.