KDSS relocation bracket (1 Viewer)

[linuxgod]

Good point about jacking up, I’d avoid it to keep the suspension closer to the mid point of it’s travel.

When I changed my end links recently I just put the front of the truck on ramps.

Oh yeah good PSA here... IIRC you're supposed to tighten the sway bar end link bolts (along with shock mount lower bolts) when the vehicle is on the ground. So even if the KDSS relo gets installed in the air and the sway bar end links reinserted when in the air, gotta remember not to tighten the latter until it's back on the ground, otherwise it's additional tweaking to the bushings...

 

[Idaho Savage]

Oh yeah good PSA here... IIRC you're supposed to tighten the sway bar end link bolts (along with shock mount lower bolts) when the vehicle is on the ground. So even if the KDSS relo gets installed in the air and the sway bar end links reinserted when in the air, gotta remember not to tighten the latter until it's back on the ground, otherwise it's additional tweaking to the bushings...

That’s definitely good to know. Thanks

 

[Pitbull410]

Curious if anyone has a video out there of the best way to install the kdss relocation kit?

 

[linuxgod]

Curious if anyone has a video out there of the best way to install the kdss relocation kit?

it's not hard. good, strong ratchet straps and a long prying bar are you friend. if you don't have a 4' prying bar, get a length of black iron gas pipe from home depot

1. lift vehicle
2. unbolt the two frame mounts
3. bar will likely move out of the way. if not, use a prying bar or ratchet strap to reposition it
4. install KDSS relo brackets
5. use prying bar and ratchet straps to reposition bar
6. reattach the 2 KDSS bar frame mounts, which now attach to the KDSS relo brackets
7. lower vehicle

Step 0 and 8 is to loosen the KDSS screws and retighten when you're done, but I've seen it done without opening them.

I have some additional steps in another thread somewhere around here which describe how to mount your sway bar end links differently, so as to avoid excessive wear and tear on the bushings.

 

[Pitbull410]

it's not hard. good, strong ratchet straps and a long prying bar are you friend. if you don't have a 4' prying bar, get a length of black iron gas pipe from home depot

1. lift vehicle
2. unbolt the two frame mounts
3. bar will likely move out of the way. if not, use a prying bar or ratchet strap to reposition it
4. install KDSS relo brackets
5. use prying bar and ratchet straps to reposition bar
6. reattach the 2 KDSS bar frame mounts, which now attach to the KDSS relo brackets
7. lower vehicle

Step 0 and 8 is to loosen the KDSS screws and retighten when you're done, but I've seen it done without opening them.

I have some additional steps in another thread somewhere around here which describe how to mount your sway bar end links differently, so as to avoid excessive wear and tear on the bushings.

Appreciate it! Turns out I don't need it though, was able to clear my tires by adjusting the castor more with the SPC UCAs

 

[kcjaz]

So I just got 285/75R17s installed and have slight contact on KDSS at full lock. It isn’t that bad moving slowly on level ground but I believe it would be worse in full stuff and full lock. Do I need to do the KDSS relo? Seems like the answer is yes. I have SPC UCAs and I’ve read that castor adjustment could also address this. I would think the relo would be better than doing that but I really don’t know. Looking for advice.

 

[Pitbull410]

I have the same setup, what offset wheels? you should be able to clear them with the spc UCA adjusted

 

[kcjaz]

I have the same setup, what offset wheels? you should be able to clear them with the spc UCA adjusted

25 mm Icon Six Speeds. I’m close on the back of the tire at the rocker panel so I can’t move it back much.
Is the best way to really check fitment to remove the struts and jack the wheels to the bump stops?

 

[Pitbull410]

25 mm Icon Six Speeds. I’m close on the back of the tire at the rocker panel so I can’t move it back much.
Is the best way to really check fitment to remove the struts and jack the wheels to the bump stops?

I'm using+40 and just barely rubbed the kdss bar, I would think+25 would be perfect but every vehicle is slightly different

 

[bloc]

Another issue is rubbing the KDSS cylinder boot at full stuff plus steering angle, which can eventually tear it and allow the cylinder shaft to corrode.

You really do need to cycle the suspension and test different steering angles to get an idea of potential risk for problems.

 

[kcjaz]

Another issue is rubbing the KDSS cylinder boot at full stuff plus steering angle, which can eventually tear it and allow the cylinder shaft to corrode.

You really do need to cycle the suspension and test different steering angles to get an idea of potential risk for problems.

Agreed. So pull the struts and do this on jack stands or find some ditch to drive in and out of?

 

[kcjaz]

I'm using+40 and just barely rubbed the kdss bar, I would think+25 would be perfect but every vehicle is slightly different

hmm. If you got +40 to work with just UCA caster adjustment then mine should be easy. I will go search the SPC adjustment procedure.

 

[bloc]

Agreed. So pull the struts and do this on jack stands or find some ditch to drive in and out of?

Depends on your availability of appropriate ditches vs your time/energy to pull the struts and get it aligned (again) afterwards.

 

[linuxgod]

You have the same tire size and wheel offset I have

I always had a slight rub on the KDSS arm and the passengers side swap bar at full lock. You might be able to get rid of it by decreasing caster a bunch, but ultimately I went with the KDSS relo bracket.

As you probably know the KDSS relo will tweak your sway bar end link bushings, so I added a spacer into the cradle and used a longer bolt to mount mine to the outside of the cradle.

FYI if I had to do it again I’d still do the KDSS relo, but I’d make my own out of 2”x7” bar stock. Reason being if you do it yourself you can actually shift the bar an extra half inch or inch forward, which would make the sway bar end links perfectly perpendicular. It would also give extra clearance to go to 35s without any rubbing up there

 

[kcjaz]

You have the same tire size and wheel offset I have

I always had a slight rub on the KDSS arm and the passengers side swap bar at full lock. You might be able to get rid of it by decreasing caster a bunch, but ultimately I went with the KDSS relo bracket.

As you probably know the KDSS relo will tweak your sway bar end link bushings, so I added a spacer into the cradle and used a longer bolt to mount mine to the outside of the cradle.

FYI if I had to do it again I’d still do the KDSS relo, but I’d make my own out of 2”x7” bar stock. Reason being if you do it yourself you can actually shift the bar an extra half inch or inch forward, which would make the sway bar end links perfectly perpendicular. It would also give extra clearance to go to 35s without any rubbing up there

I had the thought of making the brackets. Are the SS or does Slee anodize them? Anyone measure these things before installing them?

They look like 1/2” thick or so which also would drop the bar. I’m wondering if I’d have any issues with my BB skid plate. Also, how tight does this get with the lower hose connection on the radiator? I guess I just need to climb under and look.

 

[linuxgod]

I had the thought of making the brackets. Are the SS or does Slee anodize them? Anyone measure these things before installing them?

They look like 1/2” thick or so which also would drop the bar. I’m wondering if I’d have any issues with my BB skid plate. Also, how tight does this get with the lower hose connection on the radiator? I guess I just need to climb under and look.

Trail Tailor sells aluminum ones. They are 5/8" thick and are 2"x6" plates.

Product​	Quantity​	Length​	Sub Total:​
5/8" {A} x 2" {B} 6061-T6511 Aluminum Flat, Extruded-By the Inch SKU: 61f.625x2 Cutting Tolerance: Plus 1/8", Minus 0​	2	7"	$14.00

I had the idea of buying bar stock and drilling them after installing the Trail Tailor kit, and realizing there's another half inch or more I think that the bar could be moved forward (assuming your mounts and welds look like mine). @indycole ultimately did this, so you might read his build thread backwards to find the details. I think he mounted his end links outside the LCA cradle too. (Note that's worked well for me but a couple people had issues with their bolts moving/breaking, so if you go this route definitely make sure you're using the right grade 10.8 bolts and you have a solid spacer in the cradle to prevent any movement).

 

[kcjaz]

Trail Tailor sells aluminum ones. They are 5/8" thick and are 2"x6" plates.

Product​	Quantity​	Length​	Sub Total:​
5/8" {A} x 2" {B} 6061-T6511 Aluminum Flat, Extruded-By the Inch SKU: 61f.625x2 Cutting Tolerance: Plus 1/8", Minus 0​	2	7"	$14.00

I had the idea of buying bar stock and drilling them after installing the Trail Tailor kit, and realizing there's another half inch or more I think that the bar could be moved forward (assuming your mounts and welds look like mine). @indycole ultimately did this, so you might read his build thread backwards to find the details. I think he mounted his end links outside the LCA cradle too. (Note that's worked well for me but a couple people had issues with their bolts moving/breaking, so if you go this route definitely make sure you're using the right grade 10.8 bolts and you have a solid spacer in the cradle to prevent any movement).

If I understand the bracket, the relocated KDDS mounting holes are in the bracket and the only thing holding the bar in place are the threads in bracket. Is aluminum up to is task? I don't know the direction of the loads so maybe the bracket is always being compressed and therefore aluminum threads are not a concern.

Too bad there seems not to be a way to drill new holes and use through bolts and avoid the bracket altogher.

 

[bloc]

If I understand the bracket, the relocated KDDS mounting holes are in the bracket and the only thing holding the bar in place are the threads in bracket. Is aluminum up to is task? I don't know the direction of the loads so maybe the bracket is always being compressed and therefore aluminum threads are not a concern.

I wondered the same thing. During cornering the loads on each side are in the same direction as the suspension travel.. so pulling down on the side to the inside of the turn. With how stiff the front sway bar is, I'm betting it's a whole lot of pulling force.

 

[CharlieS]

Drill holes and weld in captive nuts. It is just beyond a lot of people's skill level and a bolt on makes things easier.

 

[linuxgod]

If I understand the bracket, the relocated KDDS mounting holes are in the bracket and the only thing holding the bar in place are the threads in bracket. Is aluminum up to is task? I don't know the direction of the loads so maybe the bracket is always being compressed and therefore aluminum threads are not a concern.

Too bad there seems not to be a way to drill new holes and use through bolts and avoid the bracket altogher.

You could use steel instead of aluminum. I think the Slee kit uses steel. My Trail Tailor ones are aluminum and seem just fine after a year of use. Someone with more time on the hands could probably figure out the material strength of 5/8” aluminum bar vs the OEM bolts used… if the aluminum has a higher strength then the weak point is still the bolts.