Awesome. Similarly afflicted. I've owned cruisers since I bought my first one (fj40) at 16 back in '91. Honestly I would love an older D90 or D130 too, they are just cool rigs. But, I have more cruisers than I really need already
Rear Camera relocation kits?
- Thread starter rlynch356
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- camera kits rear rear camera relocation
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- Thread starter
- #42
Seems to be Ok in this position under the propane Tank mount.... Of course the parking grid is a bit off...
I'll be running it in side the swing arm once I'm truly happy with the placement - it is much more exposed to rain as I saw today.. so the lens gets wet easier
I'll be running it in side the swing arm once I'm truly happy with the placement - it is much more exposed to rain as I saw today.. so the lens gets wet easier
that ought to work!
You can adjust the parking lines. I don’t recall the secret handshake in the nav system to enter the menu, but there is one.
- Thread starter
- #45
@linuxgod oh really..... hmmm I know there is a config/maintenance/whatever mode
lets see if this works (from another thread()
1) Turn the ignition off.
2) Without putting foot on brake turn Ignition Mode on. [Press Start/Stop button twice (2x). First time is Accessory Mode, second time is Ignition Mode.]
3) Wait until the 'Caution" screen clears and you see your normal display.
4) Hold down the 'Setup' button on the head unit and turn your parking lights on and off three (3) times quickly.
The head unit will now go into full setup mode. You can now start the car and it will stay in this mode.
lets see if this works (from another thread()
1) Turn the ignition off.
2) Without putting foot on brake turn Ignition Mode on. [Press Start/Stop button twice (2x). First time is Accessory Mode, second time is Ignition Mode.]
3) Wait until the 'Caution" screen clears and you see your normal display.
4) Hold down the 'Setup' button on the head unit and turn your parking lights on and off three (3) times quickly.
The head unit will now go into full setup mode. You can now start the car and it will stay in this mode.
- Thread starter
- #46
Winner…
Couple of things… hold down (long press) the view adjustment button in the camera menu..
I adjusted the lines down a fair bit..
I’ll bend the bracket a bit more when it’s in final placement
Couple of things… hold down (long press) the view adjustment button in the camera menu..
I adjusted the lines down a fair bit..
I’ll bend the bracket a bit more when it’s in final placement
Nice. The only weirdness I’ve noticed on my 2013 is that when turning while backing up the lines are off. I think that’s a function of how the camera was actually calibrated for being offset though. Still it’s better than leaving it factory once you’ve moved the camera.
Pro tip, when moving the lines I suggest making the red line equal to where the spare or jerry cans hang off the truck, as your rear most point is no longer the bumper itself.
I put a 2x4 up against the tire and one against the basket and aligned the red line to where it hit the ground.
great idea.
Would a 2013 LX570 have the same harness where I could use K6314JC-KIT?
Looks like for pre 2015 models it would be K6305-Kit?
GXL VX Sahara Before Aug 2015 Sensor Model - Kaymar
Australian designer and manufacturer of the world's toughest rear bars, spare wheel and jerry can holders/carriers for 4x4 vehicles make a hit in USA market
kaymar.com.au
bring this back from the dead as I tackle a solution that works with my Wilco Off-road Solo XL hitch mounted spare carrier.
I think I found the female connector that plugs into the camera on the 2014 lx570 (cross applies to some lc200 years, not sure which). search for “Tacoma tundra rear camera harness pigtail” on eBay pr Amazon and should bring it up ($8.99-$11.99 wire some wires connected, $21 with fresh pins).
Now onto the rear hatch side of cables, anyone have a close up from the past of what they look like? Seems like more standard molex than the custom molex x150 based connector to the camera. Would like to source a male female pair and then make a truly plug and play harness.
I’ve built a couple of custom harnesses before, so if this works out I might be able to build a few and keep in stock for anyone interested.
I think I found the female connector that plugs into the camera on the 2014 lx570 (cross applies to some lc200 years, not sure which). search for “Tacoma tundra rear camera harness pigtail” on eBay pr Amazon and should bring it up ($8.99-$11.99 wire some wires connected, $21 with fresh pins).
Now onto the rear hatch side of cables, anyone have a close up from the past of what they look like? Seems like more standard molex than the custom molex x150 based connector to the camera. Would like to source a male female pair and then make a truly plug and play harness.
I’ve built a couple of custom harnesses before, so if this works out I might be able to build a few and keep in stock for anyone interested.
Interested in one of you make them...using an aftermarket license plate bracket/camera now, and image quality sucks (plus no guidance lines).
Did some archeology today. Pictures for anyone looking in future.
Amazon Tacoma/tundra 4-pin connector was way too big
The upper hatch connectors are:
90980-12378 or 6098-3826 (20pin) which was in blue for me.
6098-3893 or 6098-3933 (17pin)
I’m trying to build something that involves not touching these, let’s see.
Ps, unplug main battery before removing connectors in headliner. My lx didn’t like that and refuse to unlock hatch. But there’s another post on here that involves a reinitialization in tech stream, problem for tomorrow.
Amazon Tacoma/tundra 4-pin connector was way too big
The upper hatch connectors are:
90980-12378 or 6098-3826 (20pin) which was in blue for me.
6098-3893 or 6098-3933 (17pin)
I’m trying to build something that involves not touching these, let’s see.
Ps, unplug main battery before removing connectors in headliner. My lx didn’t like that and refuse to unlock hatch. But there’s another post on here that involves a reinitialization in tech stream, problem for tomorrow.
I found the same female connector that plugs into the camera when I was trying to extend mine, but no male end. I tried to source a male connector that resembled the camera connector, as my intention was just to create an extension cable. I spent far too much time on digikey, mouser, etc as well as digging through spec sheets from the connector manufacturers.Did some archeology today. Pictures for anyone looking in future.
Amazon Tacoma/tundra 4-pin connector was way too big
The upper hatch connectors are:
90980-12378 or 6098-3826 (20pin) which was in blue for me.
6098-3893 or 6098-3933 (17pin)
I’m trying to build something that involves not touching these, let’s see.
Ps, unplug main battery before removing connectors in headliner. My lx didn’t like that and refuse to unlock hatch. But there’s another post on here that involves a reinitialization in tech stream, problem for tomorrow.
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View attachment 4011952
Eventually I gave up and decided just to splice in some shielded cat5 cable with IIRC some DT2 or similar connectors so it was still reversible.
Keep in mind if you do the splice method there’s NFW you’re going to get a connector through any of the existing trunk conduits, so run the bare cable and then add connectors once it’s in place…
Ordered a cheap Tacoma 2009-2013 camera off Amazon for the male end, hoping it’s like the oem part where the male end has a base plate but then connects to the camera pcb stack using a micro jst connector anyways.
If I do end up making a kit for others to buy, it will involve 2 sections, on end with the male from the hatch to the back left of headliner, some 1:1 wagos there then another piece from outside spare tire carrier/bumper etc. That way one can pull nearly bare cable through the holes easily from both sides. 4 core single cable helps too.
Lowkey was thinking of putting in a 4pdt switch and just having to said cheap camera to the spare carrier with extension, then hit the switch to revert back to oe location for mall crawling. But meh, undecided.
Not enough coffee in me yet for better sentence formation, sorry
If I do end up making a kit for others to buy, it will involve 2 sections, on end with the male from the hatch to the back left of headliner, some 1:1 wagos there then another piece from outside spare tire carrier/bumper etc. That way one can pull nearly bare cable through the holes easily from both sides. 4 core single cable helps too.
Lowkey was thinking of putting in a 4pdt switch and just having to said cheap camera to the spare carrier with extension, then hit the switch to revert back to oe location for mall crawling. But meh, undecided.
Not enough coffee in me yet for better sentence formation, sorry
Side note: if you are like me and unplug the rear hatch connectors with the main battery still connected, and then the trunk electronic latch won’t unlock, don’t get annoyed like me.
Plug in your favorite obd tool, scan the trunk /rear hatch for DTC codes. B2250 should pop-up, clear it, off on ignition and your latch is back in action!
Plug in your favorite obd tool, scan the trunk /rear hatch for DTC codes. B2250 should pop-up, clear it, off on ignition and your latch is back in action!