Grade 8 bolts and fasteners tensile strength is 150 ksi and 6061 aluminum is 42 ksi so for the same size bolt/nut, aluminum is about 3.5 times not as strong. Doesn’t mean aluminum will fail in this application, as that depends on the loads.
KDSS relocation bracket
- Thread starter Rigger
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Hey @linuxgod, what are your alignment numbers? I'm getting my alignment done and will play with wheel placement by adjusting caster (I have SPC UCAs). I just want some numbers for reference.
Also, I don't think I don't think I can pull the tires back much at all to get off the KDSS as I am hitting my rocker as it is. I will trim those. My KDSS rub is very mild and its only when full locked and neutral (flat ground) compression/droop, i.e. any compression or droop takes the tire off the KDSS.
Did you remove your mud flaps, hammer back the metal bracket they’re mounted to, and use a heat gun on the fender liner in that area? Once you do that you should get a lot of clearance
Alignment numbers below. I’ve run as high as 4 degrees caster in the past. I’m happy with my setup though 0.5 degrees more caster would be ok too.
Thanks. I never had front mud flaps. It seems to hit on the lower inside corner of the rocker. Maybe heat will work but cutting the corner off is what I think I’ll do.
That's interesting given you're on the same tire and wheel as me. I don't think I ever had contact in the corner. I did have it hit the rocker where it meets the plastic liner, which is why I bashed the mudflap bracket back to help make the arc smooth. Are your UCAs adjustable? I'll be interested to see your alignment specs as well.
Got the alignment and really all better. Actual moved the wheel forward which resolved rocker panel rub and didn’t really make the KDSS rub worse. I can’t tell that the tire is rubbing at full lock. The only indication of the rub is the polishing of the KDSS bar. Any compression/stuff at full lock takes it off the bar.
The extra caster is your friend.
If it pulls right, take it back and have them add a half degree of caster to the RF. Usually you want more on the right to account for road crown. Extra caster on the left may cause you to drift right and thus have to cock your steering wheel to correct for it. Then again he reversed cross-camber from my setup so maybe it'll be spot on for ya'
If it pulls right, take it back and have them add a half degree of caster to the RF. Usually you want more on the right to account for road crown. Extra caster on the left may cause you to drift right and thus have to cock your steering wheel to correct for it. Then again he reversed cross-camber from my setup so maybe it'll be spot on for ya'
yeah, his note says he was at the limit for RF caster. Heading down to the lake tonight so will get a couple hours high way time and will see.
If you're on factory UCAs still that might be true. Aftermarket UCAs should give you plenty more room to go, so if the eccentric isn't moving it could be an issue with the bolt rusting or the LCA bushing sagging.
I have SPC UCA. He did adjust the UCA. Issue is something related to LCA limited movement.
I'm going to see how it is on the highway and then maybe call him to understand the note better.
If you have an SPC UCA he can compensate by adjusting the balljoint to gain an extra degree of caster.
FWIW I had a similar issue - an alignment shop somehow over-rotated the LCA cams and then said they couldn't get enough caster. A good shop looked at it and realized the cams were wrong and now I'm fine. Might not be the issue but worth checking. That said my hunch is rust in the LCA cam bolt where the bolt has partially seized, but hard to tell without being there.
Hey, Chicago isn't that from from here, drive on down and take a look! I'll buy you a Chiefs Superbowl shirt!
Hah.
Hey I need to meet up with CharlieS too, and he's in Vermont, so why don't both of y'all meet someplace between KS and VT like... I dunno... Chicago?
Seriously though, I'm no expert (I just play one on the internet) but photos and/or video might help... and cost a lot less gas $
Decided to trim my rockers just to make more clearance.
I’d like to figure out some kind of slider extension to better protect the rocker and fender it’s bolted too.
I’d like to figure out some kind of slider extension to better protect the rocker and fender it’s bolted too.
For reference I have 4 fingers of space between my tire and my rocker with my alignment setting. Also for reference squashing that bracket behind the rocker definitely gives the inner part of the rocker a cleaner curve into the fender liner
I only have 3 fingers space. Moving the wheel forward a pinky width probably cause me to be more into the KDSS bar.
You may have bigger hands than me. Also 4 fingers was tight for me. Also I have about 15k in my tires. Seems reasonably close now though
I've been thinking about potential alternatives to the KDSS relo brackets. The interference for me (285/75R17 KO2s with ICON six speed +25mm offset) is just slight rubbing of the KDSS control arm (drivers side) at full right lock. The issue is the shape of the curved part of the control arm. My thought is to grind material away to eliminate the rub and then weld overlay on the back side to keep the cross sectional are the same. In theory, his will be just as strong as the original arm. This would avoid relocating the the whole KDSS stabilizer bar and associated geometry issues with the end links. I think 1/4" in a relatively small area would get me there and potentially allow 35's too. Thoughts?
Of course having a redesigned arm manufactured would be awesome but prohibitively expensive (maybe $2000 - $4000) for a one off production run. Group buy anyone?
Of course having a redesigned arm manufactured would be awesome but prohibitively expensive (maybe $2000 - $4000) for a one off production run. Group buy anyone?
I've been thinking about potential alternatives to the KDSS relo brackets. The interference for me (285/75R17 KO2s with ICON six speed +25mm offset) is just slight rubbing of the KDSS control arm (drivers side) at full right lock. The issue is the shape of the curved part of the control arm. My thought is to grind material away to eliminate the rub and then weld overlay on the back side to keep the cross sectional are the same. In theory, his will be just as strong as the original arm. This would avoid relocating the the whole KDSS stabilizer bar and associated geometry issues with the end links. I think 1/4" in a relatively small area would get me there and potentially allow 35's too. Thoughts?
Of course having a redesigned arm manufactured would be awesome but prohibitively expensive (maybe $2000 - $4000) for a one off production run. Group buy anyone?
Will the tire clear the KDSS boot at full stuff or will you still have that to deal with?
Personally grinding and welding on a cast part makes me nervous, but that has more to do with just not understanding how that impacts the strength. May be fine.. but seems like I’ve heard it can impact the metallurgy.
Alternately chopping the front of the sway bar link bucket and moving it forward like in the tundra arm thread may allow KDSS relo with less of the penalties?
good questions. In my case the boot is good as the rub only occurs at normal, flat ground ride height. Any stuff or droop causes the tire to come off the arm and it never hits the boot.
The arm does look cast but is more likely forged. I do need to do some research here before I do any welding but luckily I have access to a metallurgist and welding engineers at work who will advise me for the cost of beer. We repad and weld overlay all the time on structural things and high pressure pipe. The biggest thing is knowing what the material is and then engineer the weld/heat treat process. A forged steel part like this will likely need some preheat and then just MIG or TIG on material. Where it can get tricky is with exotic alloys which isn't going to be the case here. It would be cool to borrow a PMI gun from our construction dept and just scan the arm.
Does anyone know of a way to find Toyota material specs for parts?