Kazuma/TRD supercharger

[YellowJacket]

First of all I have been trying to do a lot of research on these. Are they really the same. I am an apprentice at a Toyota dealership so maybe I should be asking myself this, or my parts guys.

My Grandfather has a 97 LX450. He has always been into wheeling since before I was born. He had a 82 FJ60 locked f & r with ARB's, lifted, 33's, winch, etc, and just decided that it's time for a more comfortable crawler.

He did all of the above to his new rig including the supercharger. Ever since he put it on, he has had problems starting with overheating. I can't remember what all he did with that but I don't believe it's fixed yet because now it doesn't seem to do anything. He is very disappointed in it currently. He is not only getting VERY poor gas mileage but still can't tow anything. He said he use to get 17-18 miles to the gallon and now he only gets around 11. Some of the hills here in UT towing a very small wood trailer with his ATV he can only do 35 MHP on parts. He also tows things like a camper and a boat occasionally.

I told him he needs to start off by getting a boost gauge. He is going to bring it into my shop so we can figure out what is going on. I sure hope it's not working properly otherwise we will have to get him into something else! Something else interesting, he says that 91 vs 85 octane makes no difference as far as he can tell, no PINGing, power loss, etc. He is a very smart and mechanically inclined guy. Now "Scamper" stated that he has a S/C on his and that the gas mileage is about the same? Is that the case?

I understand that the LC is a ton heavier but I did drive my grandpa's rig around and I swear my 250-260 HP 87 Runner could smoke his 290 HP LX. He's a little disappointed.

If there is ANYBODY that can give me some quick facts or info from their own experience please email me or post them as soon as possible. He just got back from a camping trip and is getting ready for the next one in a week.

Thanks, Tobin Gardner

 

[mot]

Tobin,

Welcome(?)

I can't offer any suggestions, other than you might want to talk to "FZJFillmore" (Cory) or "Safado" both of whom have the TRD units and are in Utah.

Not sure about Safado'sm, but Cory's Cruiser has an intercooler, too. I'm sure they would be happy to give you a ride/siggestions.

Good luck!

Mot

 

[NorCalDoug]

Welcome aboard Tobin

I do believe that the Kazuma and the TRD are (were) one and the same.

 

[Scamper]

Hi Tobin. Welcome to the board!

It would be helpful to know the condition of the truck (miles, maint. schedule, etc.) Was the truck weak from the day the S/C was installed, or did it develop it's weakness over time?

I think one of your first comments: "Ever since he put in on he has had problems starting with overheating." would indicate at least one of the problems. Putting a S/C on that truck without first making sure that the engine was in good condition and the cooling system was in tip-top shape has likely done some damage. You need to get that cooling system fixed asap.

I think the next thing you should check is that the HG has not failed. The I6 has an inherently weak HG which tends to blow at #6 most often. Look for crusties around the head/block interface. Also look for the telltale bubbles in your overflow tank, water in your oil, etc. There are lots of HG threads on the board.

You may also be seeing poor performance and fuel economy (that's a funny word to use when talking about one of these trucks ) due to air and/or fuel delivery problems. Make sure the MAF is clean, and that all your hoses are on tight without any leaks. You may have a dirty TB, clogged injectors, weak fuel pump, clogged filter, yadda yadda yadda... But definitely stick with the high octane (91 if that's the highest you can get out there).

You should also consider running a cooler plug. Dan sold me some that are for an MR2 that run one step colder--helps prevent detonations.

EDIT: oh...and yes: the Kazuma puts together the package that TRD sells. The blower itself is Eaton. The castings say Kazuma, and it all comes to you via TRD.

 

[Junk]

Yes, I think first it was Eaton that made the TRD unit then it switched to Kazuma, but the current ones, at least the ones in the 3 years that I know of were made by Kazuma.

There are a lot of things that need to be checked when adding a blower. Most of them have been covered here, but the critical system is of course the cooling system. Can’t take for granted the rest of the truck, but the cooling system needs to be in top notch shape. So look at things like the radiator, viscous fan clutch etc. Even consider running one step cooler plugs. I’m not the expert on the blower, several here are, but there is a good amount that needs to be checked.

 

[ryanjl]

His memory may be a little off as well. Never heard of an 80series getting 17-18 mpg. 11mpg is far more common.

 

[firetruck41]

I think the TRD s/c tends to run lean, which is "hot", cdan and a couple others use a water/methanol injection to keep things in line.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Grandfather named Langdon? If it is, he came and drove my truck before he bought his blower. IIRC, Will Carroll did the install, I can't think of anyone I'd trust more to put it on. From when I'd talked to him, he mentioned he was getting 10-11mpg, which seems typical, don't know where he's getting 17-18?

I'd look at the usual overheating suspects - radiator flush, fan clutch, radiator. My 80 was running hotter than usual last year, had the fan clutch repacked and it's been fine ever since.

 

[MTNRAT]

Put in a new 94 brass radiator (part# 16400-66040), a fan fluid coupling, and thermostat. Fully flush the system with the heater set to high (fully open). Fill with toyota red. The cooling system is very important, and must be working perfectly. Get one range cooler plugs (nippon denso 90919-01180). After I installed my super I did get some high temps towing my boat. After replacing the parts I couldn't get an increase in temp pulling a 4000lb boat up big mtn passes. That should cure any overheating.
Cheers,
Sean

 

[Trunk Monkey]

One other thing, and feel free to call me dumb here, if the people that make the thing recommend 91 octane, why second guess them? I don't have the brains to know what 85 octane would do in an engine that needs 91, but do know that blowers and 1FZs are expensive.

 

[elmariachi]

One other thing, and feel free to call me dumb here, if the people that make the thing recommend 91 octane, why second guess them? I don't have the brains to know what 85 octane would do in an engine that needs 91, but do know that blowers and 1FZs are expensive.

Hold it......don't start replacing parts yet or you may never find the problem or find that its still there after a new radiator, fan clutch etc. Secondly, you better stop driving the truck or you are going to crater the engine if its as bad as you say. Having owned one of these for 100,000 trouble-free miles as well as other blown cars and one big supercharged boat, let me offer some thoughts:

1. The blower is made by Eaton. "Kazuma" was a marketing brand created and owned by Toyota that allowed TRD to retail sell these systems to the public via the Internet outside of Toyota parts departments. Nonetheless, parts departments wound up selling the bulk of them and still do.

2. Fuel octane is NOT up for debate. A blown engine, even one this mild, requires all the octane it can get to run properly. This system generates 6-8 lbs of boost and was designed around a minimum of 91 octane, no exceptions.

3. There are NO shortcuts in the installation guide. Troubleshooting starts with going back over that step-by-step. My guess is this is where the problem is because not only is it overheating, it runs poorly. The installation requires that you move the wiring harness around and ususally this requires cutting and extending numerous wires in the throttle body harness. This is the FIRST place I would check for installation issues.

4. Overheating is tied to poor airflow or improper fuel mixture. A "kink" in the design of this system is the location of the bypass valve and its clamps, which reside beneath the main hose coming out of the back of the blower. This bypass valve discharges excess pressure and balances airflow when the throttle is at a steady position. If one were not careful during the install, you could have the hose clamps in the way of the free movement of that bypass valve. You need to check that because if the valve linkage is hitting the hose clamp, it could affect the valve's ability to freely open and cause lots of trouble. You can check the full range of motion by hand with the truck turned off.

5. Be sure the larger TRD fan was installed.

6. Check for tight fittings and no cuts or holes in all hoses.

Once you are 100% certain that the install is EXACTLY per the book, then you should install a boost gauge in the intake manifold. When the install was performed, an allen plug should have been installed on the rear corner of the intake near the master cylinder. Remove that plug, install a pipe nipple and attach a boost/vacuum gauge. At idle or at any completely steady rpm, the truck should create ZERO boost (thanks to the bypass valve). As you rev up the engine you should see 3-5 lbs of boost until you level off the rpms. What you need to look for is immediate vacuum as soon as you let off the throttle. The bypass valve causes this dance between boost and vacuum and if there are induction/airflow issues, the vacuum will be deficient as will the boost.

If all that pans out and you have good boost sitting still, then run the boost gauge up into the cab and take a drive. Lock out the overdrive with the button and drive it in the 20-40 mph range, pushing the truck to accelerate. If you can feel the boost and see it on the guage in the 5 -7 lb. range, then the blower is working. If you see corresponding vacuum when you decelerate, then the bypass is working.

You can now start looking at issues outside of the blower system.

p.s. 11 mpg in the Utah hills is going to be the norm, IMO.

 

[cruiserdan]

An M90 Eaton to be specific.

Great last post there Jim and I second the 11mpg. That's about what I avearge.


Do the bubble test too, I think the head gasket is suspect as well.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Since we're on the topic, what's the diameter of the pulley that comes in the kit? Just wondering if I still have that one. The PO did a few funky things with the set-up (intercooler, adj. fuel regulator), and I've wondered if he dinked with the pulley at all.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Tobin something does not sound right. You gramps should not have any problem pulling hills. Gas mpg sounds a little low also. I’m SC and very heavy but still see 11-12 in town and 13-14 on the hwy (GPS).

In AZ it gets real hot and I find using a Hayden fan clutch verses an OEM works better but as others have said it robs HP. The OEM W/T gauge in my book is a POS if it moves past normal you are hot. Go for the aftermarket on this gauge also. Top condition cooling system is also a must. The formula that works for me in the radiator is 1 gal of red and a pint of WaterWetter. I also have an aux fan that comes on with the AC or when W/T reaches 195 degrees. 1 range colder plugs as other have stated. EGT can be a PIA and needs to be watched but the only problem I have had with EGT is on long steep grades and it just mean to slow down a little. Keep us SC'd guys posted on your findings and welcome.

 

[cruiserdan]

Since we're on the topic, what's the diameter of the pulley that comes in the kit? Just wondering if I still have that one. The PO did a few funky things with the set-up (intercooler, adj. fuel regulator), and I've wondered if he dinked with the pulley at all.

If you mean the blower nose pulley, the diameter is 3.2 inches and it is steel. Most of the off-size ones are aluminum. My 3.0 inch aluminum one is "stelth" painted black.....

I do not run that pulley when I tow 'cuz the boost is too much under load.

I'd like to split the difference and try a 3.1 some day.

 

[elmariachi]

If you mean the blower nose pulley, the diameter is 3.2 inches and it is steel. Most of the off-size ones are aluminum. My 3.0 inch aluminum one is "stelth" painted black.....

I do not run that pulley when I tow 'cuz the boost is too much under load.

I'd like to split the difference and try a 3.1 some day.

Did you have to have the offset milled on your 3.0 aluminum pulley before mounting it? I have one but never got around to trying it before I sold the truck to Kaderabek.

 

[cruiserdan]

Did you have to have the offset milled on your 3.0 aluminum pulley before mounting it? I have one but never got around to trying it before I sold the truck to Kaderabek.

A friend of mine milled the one I have to get it in the right "plane". I never saw it before he cut it so I don't know exactly what he did to it.

It is good for 1.5 to 2 lbs extra but It comes on pretty quick in the mid range and I can be a bit lean under the right conditions. I need to jack with the injectors and the fuel pressure to be able to run it all the time and I have just not taken the time to play with it. My wife thinks I jack with the truck too much as is, so I have to be careful what projects I start on it.

 

[JerryLX450]

But then.. which one had better throttle response, in terms of quick acceleration Turbo VS Supercharge?

 

[elmariachi]

Do the bubble test too, I think the head gasket is suspect as well.

Absolutely need to check on the head gasket, especially since its been running hot. Thinking ahead here for Yellowjacket, I would do these things in this order if the install checkout yielded no problems:

1. Look at the spark plugs and see if they look abnormal, rich or lean.

2. Remove the primary intake hoses running from the blower into the 90 degree elbow and on into the TB. Then remove the TB crossover extension running above the valve cover (you'll likely want/need to replace that paper gasket upon reinstall.) Then look into the TB and see if it looks like its been running excessively rich.

These two inspections should help point you to whether or not its a fuel mixture issue. Lots of carbon in the TB inlet or on the plugs means she's been running rich. I assume you know what lean plugs look like. As finicky as the Toyota ECM and OBD-2 seem to be, I'd guess it would spit codes if the mixture were too out of line, but maybe not. CDan might be able to add more here about mixture.

At this point I would install new plugs, reassemble the intake plumbing and check the timing. If that pans out, I would:

1. Check the head gasket.
2. Check the fuel pressure, consider changing fuel filter, draining tank and STICKING WITH 93 octane.
3. Check the cooling system starting with the fan clutch and coolant.

 

[sleeoffroad]

I do not run that pulley when I tow 'cuz the boost is too much under load.

You mean the fuel is to little under load

Dan, call me sometime, have some info to share with you re: more boost & fuel.