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- #341
Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread (1 Viewer)
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
My mistake - I overlooked that you’re doing the rear calipers, not fronts.
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- #343
Worst part is over. Cleaning and painting done. All parts primed and painted. Spray painted with Rustoleum stuff "Over metal" primer and black matte paint. Should hold up, no need for expensive enamel there
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- #344
Diff was painted as well. I spent about 1hr on cleaning worst spots with air angle grinder, wasted about 10 disks on it. Didn't shoot for "perfect", but I think it will be better than it was and last little longer. Main thing - it will look better and I'm not going to hate it 
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- #345
Aand. Frame. I just cleaned all nicely, made 2 additional drain holes on cross member. Degreased. And went over all visible rust with POR 15. Didn't take all that long and going "dabbing" with foam brush I didn't even make any mess. Again, my experience with POR 15 is that it WILL stop this kind of surface rust.
Worst spots were on top where shocks mount. Those places looks like plates to accumulate stuff and water and rust.
Ordered 6 cans of Cosmoline, will go over everything after assembled and hope I don't need to touch it again for 10+ years.
Initially I thought to re-use parking brake shoes/stuff. During cleaning noticed they were overheated, had cracks and glazed. Decided on new shoes and hardware. Waiting..
TIP: I went with LC80 bushes. Ok, those require 18mm bolts. Ok, this means drilling out holes. I went through all that but I wouldn't suggest this. LC80 bushes is fine, I have lathe so I could just make sleeves to adapt to 16mm bolts. I didn't want to, thought the wall is too thin, will take too long to make them, etc. BUT. I bough drill bit (and you can't get everywhere with drill bit). Then I bought step bit (short). It's like $50. Then it's a job to drill those 8 holes. And it's a permanent mod to frame, which is no biggie for me but if (???) someone will be replacing rear arms in a future (???) - they will be surprised.
Worst spots were on top where shocks mount. Those places looks like plates to accumulate stuff and water and rust.
Ordered 6 cans of Cosmoline, will go over everything after assembled and hope I don't need to touch it again for 10+ years.
Initially I thought to re-use parking brake shoes/stuff. During cleaning noticed they were overheated, had cracks and glazed. Decided on new shoes and hardware. Waiting..
TIP: I went with LC80 bushes. Ok, those require 18mm bolts. Ok, this means drilling out holes. I went through all that but I wouldn't suggest this. LC80 bushes is fine, I have lathe so I could just make sleeves to adapt to 16mm bolts. I didn't want to, thought the wall is too thin, will take too long to make them, etc. BUT. I bough drill bit (and you can't get everywhere with drill bit). Then I bought step bit (short). It's like $50. Then it's a job to drill those 8 holes. And it's a permanent mod to frame, which is no biggie for me but if (???) someone will be replacing rear arms in a future (???) - they will be surprised.
- Thread starter
- #346
Confused and need help. Attached diagram shows 4 different PNs for o-rings. This is already confusing, but diagram also shows 2 0-rings on picture. Why? When I disconnected cap - I see only one o-ring sitting inside hose connector. Where is 2nd one going?
I got both PNs just in case. One is smaller o-ring which look like will fit inside and another - bigger one, not sure what it's for? Other 2 part numbers show some kind of soft plastic washers, not even o-rings.
I got both PNs just in case. One is smaller o-ring which look like will fit inside and another - bigger one, not sure what it's for? Other 2 part numbers show some kind of soft plastic washers, not even o-rings.
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- #347
Nobody? FSM talks about "o-ring" and "backup o-ring". Seems like I did get correct parts but I am confused because I only see one (smaller o-ring) sitting inside AHC hose connector.
I "suspect" that other (backup o-ring) was either not installed from factory (hence backup) and later specified. Or, it sits squished between AHC hose AND shock nut. And it was somehow lost on both sides when I was removing nuts? There was some dirt corrosion but I wouldn't just miss it. Unless they were disintegrated.. Puzzled.
I "suspect" that other (backup o-ring) was either not installed from factory (hence backup) and later specified. Or, it sits squished between AHC hose AND shock nut. And it was somehow lost on both sides when I was removing nuts? There was some dirt corrosion but I wouldn't just miss it. Unless they were disintegrated.. Puzzled.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
No AHC for me, so I’m useless.
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- #349
Ok, I should have looked first. I ordered #1 and #2 rings. Not sure what #1 is for, it's smaller o-ring and now I can't tell you which one is which (PN-wise)
So, inside of the AHC fitting there was 2 rings. One is rubber o-ring #2 and another is plastic washer with cut side (for insertion) - #3 which I didn't notice at first, but this IS "backup ring".
Definitely don't have to replace #3 unless you destroy or lose it.
What is it for? Well, my guess is that they either:
A. Didn't have proper tooling to make O-ring grove just big enough for rubber
B. They made this grove wide so it will be easy to install o-ring and then this backup ring to hold o-ring steady
I think it's "A" but who knows. Anyways, o-ring goes first. Backup ring goes next to hold o-ring tight. See my drawing.. Backup ring doesn't seal anything, hence no real need to replace.
Getting there.. all clean. All prepped. Shocks installed (PITA #1 in this whole job). Next is to lift axle into the place and start some control arms, shocks, etc. This is PITA #2. Other stuff is piece of cake with new/like new parts.
So, inside of the AHC fitting there was 2 rings. One is rubber o-ring #2 and another is plastic washer with cut side (for insertion) - #3 which I didn't notice at first, but this IS "backup ring".
Definitely don't have to replace #3 unless you destroy or lose it.
What is it for? Well, my guess is that they either:
A. Didn't have proper tooling to make O-ring grove just big enough for rubber
B. They made this grove wide so it will be easy to install o-ring and then this backup ring to hold o-ring steady
I think it's "A" but who knows. Anyways, o-ring goes first. Backup ring goes next to hold o-ring tight. See my drawing.. Backup ring doesn't seal anything, hence no real need to replace.
Getting there.. all clean. All prepped. Shocks installed (PITA #1 in this whole job). Next is to lift axle into the place and start some control arms, shocks, etc. This is PITA #2. Other stuff is piece of cake with new/like new parts.
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- #350
Aaand. Still on a lift. Usually when I need some little parts - I order from dealer as it's quick and convenient. Not this time. Ordered last Mon - still not here. With weather and all.
Aaand. Since I decided to replace parking brake pads/hardware - I went to FSM to look whats going on there. Lot of interesting stuff (like using adjusting washers, etc) that I bet noone does. However, guess what? Pretty much most of the parking brake lubrication points calls for "Lithium soap base glycol grease" aka "Rubber grease" AKA PN 08887-01206 which I also had to order. So, truck is like all ready to go but miss a few small bits. Here we go - 10+ inches of snow with BMW M3
Aaand. Since I decided to replace parking brake pads/hardware - I went to FSM to look whats going on there. Lot of interesting stuff (like using adjusting washers, etc) that I bet noone does. However, guess what? Pretty much most of the parking brake lubrication points calls for "Lithium soap base glycol grease" aka "Rubber grease" AKA PN 08887-01206 which I also had to order. So, truck is like all ready to go but miss a few small bits. Here we go - 10+ inches of snow with BMW M3
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- #351
Finally done with rear end. Assembled without 1 part, lost one bushing for park brake cable mount (where it pivots). But no big deal, will replace when I get it. Doesn't affect driving.
AHC works, brakes work. After AHC blead - set to N, then crawl under truck and tighten all control arms. This is important, otherwise twisted bushed will not last long.
Then raised truck and went over all bolts again. Sprayed everything with Cosmoline. This stuff should be great, but I went little overboard with purchase. I sprayed everything with a nice coat (rear end) and didn't even finish 1 can. Not sure why I bought 6.
New oil, new brake fluid. Top off leaking steering. Good to go.
Next is a front end. But my patience exhausted for now, will take pause
AHC works, brakes work. After AHC blead - set to N, then crawl under truck and tighten all control arms. This is important, otherwise twisted bushed will not last long.
Then raised truck and went over all bolts again. Sprayed everything with Cosmoline. This stuff should be great, but I went little overboard with purchase. I sprayed everything with a nice coat (rear end) and didn't even finish 1 can. Not sure why I bought 6.
New oil, new brake fluid. Top off leaking steering. Good to go.
Next is a front end. But my patience exhausted for now, will take pause
Wow, huge difference! I know it was a ton of work but it looks great and I think you bought plenty of extra life for your undercarriage. Well done!
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- #353
Yes, my patience is exhausted. But.. After driving for 2 days I think I need to do this ASAP. It's hard to explain, but it's like nice fit lady with tight rear end and things flopping around upfront
So, definitely improved but clunks and stuff driving me nuts.
Here is a list of stuff I plan to tackle:
1. Steering rack, hoses, pump rebuild, reservoir clean.
2. Control arms, sway bar - bushings, ball joints
3. Motor mounts
4. Left exhaust manifold crack (right was fixed)
5. Wheel Bearings service
6. Drive axles/flanges
7. Shock bushings
8. Front diff bushings
Anything else you would add to the list while in there?
So, definitely improved but clunks and stuff driving me nuts.
Here is a list of stuff I plan to tackle:
1. Steering rack, hoses, pump rebuild, reservoir clean.
2. Control arms, sway bar - bushings, ball joints
3. Motor mounts
4. Left exhaust manifold crack (right was fixed)
5. Wheel Bearings service
6. Drive axles/flanges
7. Shock bushings
8. Front diff bushings
Anything else you would add to the list while in there?
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neilsen100
GOLD Star
I just completed the steering rack and, because it was time, I tackled the timing belt work and replaced the radiator along with the coolant hoses. Only makes sense if those other items are needed but I found some huge advantages to doing the timing belt work while the engine was lifted for the steering rack work. Coolant system was also original so getting a new radiator and heater tees was overdue in my case.Yes, my patience is exhausted. But.. After driving for 2 days I think I need to do this ASAP. It's hard to explain, but it's like nice fit lady with tight rear end and things flopping around upfront
So, definitely improved but clunks and stuff driving me nuts.
Here is a list of stuff I plan to tackle:
1. Steering rack, hoses, pump rebuild, reservoir clean.
2. Control arms - bushings, ball joints
3. Motor mounts
4. Left exhaust manifold crack (right was fixed)
5. Wheel Bearings service
6. Drive axles/flanges
7. Shock bushings
8. Front diff bushings
Anything else you would add to the list while in there?
Also, your list is missing the sway bar bushings which usually can use a refresh.
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- #355
Yes, those for sure. Anything rubber will be replaced, will add on list for clarity.
I already did everything engine-wise (hoses, belt, etc) so no need to do those items.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
- Thread starter
- #357
Looking at all what might need to be replaced. Front diff. Questions:
1. What is this 41653B washer? Looks like rubber is there, is this problematic item? NA from them.
2. For both mounts (52380D and 52380E) - I assume no bushings available, should replace parts? Or there is workarounds?
3. Anything I miss here that also need to be replaced while in there?
1. What is this 41653B washer? Looks like rubber is there, is this problematic item? NA from them.
2. For both mounts (52380D and 52380E) - I assume no bushings available, should replace parts? Or there is workarounds?
3. Anything I miss here that also need to be replaced while in there?
Reuse the washers, no issue there and yes only full arms are available not individual bushings, so unfortunately that's what you will have to buy
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- #360
See
I am definitely doing front ones after seeing rears. Bottom bushes were tired too
See post 337 with pics of bushings
I am definitely doing front ones after seeing rears. Bottom bushes were tired too
