Katit's LX470 2000 - take #2
- Thread starter katit
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- Thread starter
- #142
Not for testing purposes. Simply want to replace now and see.
How much is cheap? Need to understand will be calling around
Oooo, info on starter rebuild? I'm not sure what's in the (currently still dead) engine in my '05LX, but if it's the original (or at least a quality replacement) I wouldn't mind rebuilding it while I've got it all apart.
I'm a big fan of Odyssey AGM batteries. They aren't cheap, but IMO a good battery is a worthy investment for an off-road rig.
Regarding the starter, a Denso reman is usually around $100 from Rock Auto. I have one in my rig and it's been fine for 3.5 years now.
Regarding the starter, a Denso reman is usually around $100 from Rock Auto. I have one in my rig and it's been fine for 3.5 years now.
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- #145
Called Toyota dealership. Battery is $155+tax. I think I will go with it. It's not off-road truck for me, and odyssey @ almost $400 would be overkill
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- #146
More questions to those who knows/have opinion.
According to this, even if I see voltage of 12.4-12.5 - car should start just fine. But in my case it just clicks.
Also, when testing load with special tool and it's at 12.4 - I can see it in "yellow".
I kind of think that this maybe battery is Ok-ish on a low side, but starter wants full juice to run. Meaning starter will need to be replaced.
According to this, even if I see voltage of 12.4-12.5 - car should start just fine. But in my case it just clicks.
Also, when testing load with special tool and it's at 12.4 - I can see it in "yellow".
I kind of think that this maybe battery is Ok-ish on a low side, but starter wants full juice to run. Meaning starter will need to be replaced.
- Thread starter
- #147
Installed new battery. 12.67V today. Click no start. I am thinking starter is gone. It WILL start if I put battery on charger to give it this "top off" but I don't think it is normal.
- Thread starter
- #149
Valve covers. They were seeping a little, plus oil in spark plug wells.
Looks like passenger side was replaced, you can see how those blue seals all crooked??! Can't they install them any better? One is torn. Bolts all smashed. One bolt wasn't even tightened all the way. But inside is all good.
Driver side spark plug well seals black/original and all cracked and hard as rock. Gaskets all were OK but will be replaced anyway
Good news - under covers it's not so bad. No visible cam wear.
Looks like passenger side was replaced, you can see how those blue seals all crooked??! Can't they install them any better? One is torn. Bolts all smashed. One bolt wasn't even tightened all the way. But inside is all good.
Driver side spark plug well seals black/original and all cracked and hard as rock. Gaskets all were OK but will be replaced anyway
Good news - under covers it's not so bad. No visible cam wear.
- Thread starter
- #150
When I was taking intake out I noticed mixed up nuts. One tall 14mm nut was on top of intake bracket. That was a give away that someone was working on it.
Sure enough - it's Toyota reman. But I don't have any history of starter replacement so no idea when.
Couple of things I see right away. Terminal where power connects wasn't tightened properly, see how it looks burned up and even "cut" on a side?
Another things - contacts weren't properly contacting plunger.
Sure enough - it's Toyota reman. But I don't have any history of starter replacement so no idea when.
Couple of things I see right away. Terminal where power connects wasn't tightened properly, see how it looks burned up and even "cut" on a side?
Another things - contacts weren't properly contacting plunger.
- Thread starter
- #151
Been long time, but this is not DD and kiddo not 16 yet so no rush..
Anyways, it's like 3 steps forward 2 steps back.
What it looks like with this car - I am NOT doing baselining. I am dealing with problems caused by other mechanics.
Example: Starter was replaced, but power terminal nut was hand tight. It was literally loose causing poor connection. This drove PO nuts, they replaced whole fuse box at a dealer because of this. It drove ME nuts, it wouldn't start with less than 100% battery All of this nonsense because of other guy.
I replaced battery because of this.
Now it cranks like there is no compression in engine
Had to add like 3-4 bolts missing in places holding harnesses, etc.
Replaced 6 crumbled plastic connectors
Replaced PS reservoir, changed fluids. This one is exact copy, cheap, just little different cover. Looks new underhood with all of the new hoses etc
Next to bleeding brakes. Taking off wheels. And... Here we go. Previous mechanic again!
Hour of work - back in shape. Man, this car testing me
Anyways, it's like 3 steps forward 2 steps back.
What it looks like with this car - I am NOT doing baselining. I am dealing with problems caused by other mechanics.
Example: Starter was replaced, but power terminal nut was hand tight. It was literally loose causing poor connection. This drove PO nuts, they replaced whole fuse box at a dealer because of this. It drove ME nuts, it wouldn't start with less than 100% battery All of this nonsense because of other guy.
I replaced battery because of this.
Now it cranks like there is no compression in engine
Had to add like 3-4 bolts missing in places holding harnesses, etc.
Replaced 6 crumbled plastic connectors
Replaced PS reservoir, changed fluids. This one is exact copy, cheap, just little different cover. Looks new underhood with all of the new hoses etc
Next to bleeding brakes. Taking off wheels. And... Here we go. Previous mechanic again!
Hour of work - back in shape. Man, this car testing me
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #152
Valve covers cleaned, seals replaced, injectors seals replaced.
What I did do wrong - DON'T use those cleaners on aluminum. Make sure degreaser is not going to cause this chalky black residue. It's uniform, I can live with that, but need to find better cleaner for aluminum.
What I did do wrong - DON'T use those cleaners on aluminum. Make sure degreaser is not going to cause this chalky black residue. It's uniform, I can live with that, but need to find better cleaner for aluminum.
Keep at it, you are almost there. Great thing abt these trucks is once you fix something properly it says fixed fir a very long time
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- #154
Responding to my own post - IMPORTANT! Keys are working, starting, etc. BUT. To open/close from remote you have to be next to the car. I searched and someone pointed that original fob works much better. So, I spent another $40 for used key. My bad, buttons is not in right spot, I was searching by model and didn't have key next to me to verify. Anyways, internals transplanted into my newly cut aftermarket key.
As usual - chip programmed via Techstream, and then remote programmed via sequence. It DOES WORK MUCH BETTER. I can open/close doors from distance.
So, right now cheapest way to get a key is to get one cut on eBay, just a shell (not sure they have them but I guess so). And then get USED ORIGINAL remote electronics part.
See how "Unlock" button is "PANIC"? And "trunk" button doesn't seem to do anything now. But it's OK, I can live with that for now.
- Thread starter
- #155
Lets make this car newer. Daughter took them out, sanded with multiple grits and I put 3 layers of 2K clear. Looks about 20 years newer. Pictures in reverse order. Much better in person Just trust me.
Just trust me.- Thread starter
- #156
Fixed another "problem":
forum.ih8mud.com
Removed red plug (probably factory) and installed correctly breather. At least I know I got new(er) front diff.
Transmission fluid flushed. 12qt definitely got fluid lighter but not quite as pink as new. OTOH - there was no smell, tranny was working OK. And it works OK now. Shifts smooth, no issue. So I am happy.
For the most part it's all ready to go. Just need to do final 360 camera calibration before installing side mirrors.!!
Front diff pressure inside
Just a quick Q for all on why it might be. When I was replacing oil, plug was removed and I heard distinctive sound. Whole diff was under pressure inside. It wasn't hot either. I know there should be a breather for it, right? How does it work? Should there be pressure? I assume answer is no..
forum.ih8mud.com
Removed red plug (probably factory) and installed correctly breather. At least I know I got new(er) front diff.
Transmission fluid flushed. 12qt definitely got fluid lighter but not quite as pink as new. OTOH - there was no smell, tranny was working OK. And it works OK now. Shifts smooth, no issue. So I am happy.
For the most part it's all ready to go. Just need to do final 360 camera calibration before installing side mirrors.!!
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- #157
Car is in "daily driver" mode right now. Few things left:
Need to move tires to new-er rims which I have (with TPMS)
Need to clay/polish and touchup (kid will do that)
Need to install new emblems (got all of them)
As promised - results of installing Teyes 360. I calibrated cameras yesterday. It works OK. Can do more adjustments because red lines is not there, BUT it is something you can just "know" and it will work. Much better than without camera.
Keep in mind - install on newer LX will be different/better. In my case - there is no OBD wiring. So it's just primitive electrics. No steering angle, no steering wheel buttons. Radio capable of doing some stuff just by GPS like making audio louder with speed, etc. But overall it's simple.
Refresher: I installed this on all standard wiring, no wires cut. Spliced turn signals and rear signal to get camera activation working.
Factory nakamichi amp and all speakers reused. I do have hum in speakers, any advice on getting rid of it appreciated. I can hear speaker hum and click even when I CPU on HU working, not even running car. On running car - I can hear alternator whine. This would be the last thing to fix, otherwise - I am happy with this radio as long as it stays working.
Need to move tires to new-er rims which I have (with TPMS)
Need to clay/polish and touchup (kid will do that)
Need to install new emblems (got all of them)
As promised - results of installing Teyes 360. I calibrated cameras yesterday. It works OK. Can do more adjustments because red lines is not there, BUT it is something you can just "know" and it will work. Much better than without camera.
Keep in mind - install on newer LX will be different/better. In my case - there is no OBD wiring. So it's just primitive electrics. No steering angle, no steering wheel buttons. Radio capable of doing some stuff just by GPS like making audio louder with speed, etc. But overall it's simple.
Refresher: I installed this on all standard wiring, no wires cut. Spliced turn signals and rear signal to get camera activation working.
Factory nakamichi amp and all speakers reused. I do have hum in speakers, any advice on getting rid of it appreciated. I can hear speaker hum and click even when I CPU on HU working, not even running car. On running car - I can hear alternator whine. This would be the last thing to fix, otherwise - I am happy with this radio as long as it stays working.
That's pretty snazzy! I've been on the fence about the 360 cameras - definitely think I'll get them now!
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- #160
Grounding what? Amp or radio? This is what I was going to try - try to ground them together
