Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread

[katit]

Some more disassembly progress. Dropped diff, now it's just cleaning/refinishing and putting back together.

Still have same dilemma. now when shocks only mounted on top I can feel them with my hands and no play or anything like this detected. So rubber bushings on top probably OK. Bottom ones look good. Not perfect but they will work. Don't know if removing them to change rubber makes sense..

With frame you see how it looks. Really, it is not bad at all. Only surface rust on weld seams. I think on frame - I am going to clean it, degrease it and give it coat of POR15 on those seams, not even painting everything. That should stop it right there. Overall - the only rusty piece is a sway bar. Not bad for 20yo truck.

Questions/trivia.

1. Took another lower arm off. And forgot to mark where front and rear was So, I do see white line towards end of arm (see pic). And I see different bushings on each end. AND. There is nothing mentioned in factory service manual in suspension section. Just "reinstall in reverse order". I will be installing LC80 bushes and they are the same so I guess doesn't matter which way it will be installed back..

2. Frame. On cross members on top - there is low spots. I remember seeing pictures of rust holes in low spots and suggestions to drill them out preventively. Did I mark those spots correctly?

3. Parking brakes. Do those pads really ever need replacing? I had issue with parking brakes not holding but it's probably adjustment more than anything else. Going to replace rotors anyways.

4. Rusty metal under bumper cover (picture 3). Is that common rust spot? Anyone replacing it?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I don't think control arms have a front or rear, so either direction should be fine.
The cushions on the rear shocks are definitely in need of replacing (based on the pictures)
Yes, you have marked the low spots on the cross members correctly

In general, your truck is starting to develop rust in all the usual spots. Unfortunately, there is always more rust than you can see on the surface. I'd recommend using the pneumatic needle scaler and then some wire wheel on grinder to scrub off the rusty spots and then go to town with a good rust converter. Finish with a couple of coats of paint and then apply Krown or FluidFilm or sumsuch liberally, annually.

 

[katit]

I don't think control arms have a front or rear, so either direction should be fine.

They definitely different. Upper ones need to be installed based on height sensor mount. And right side has bracket for speed sensor wire so also need to go in properly.

But lower ones - look identical but they are not. See picture.
1. White line on one end
2. Different bushes. Solid bush on one side, directional on other. They both were like this.


On other stuff - okk. Will work on removing shocks. Don't feel like it but mine as well lets do it at once.

Rust is not bad to the point where needle scaler will be needed. Pictures actually show it worse than what it is. Wire wheel will take it off very quick. I do understand there is some inside of the frame members but can't do much about that.

 

[hoser]

This is a TSB/revision for the 80 series back in 1996. I believe the "new" orientation was carried throughout the 100 series.

 

[katit]

This is a TSB/revision for the 80 series back in 1996. I believe the "new" orientation was carried throughout the 100 series.

View attachment 2560583

Thanks a lot for that! Exactly what I needed since I am using 80 series bushings now. If we go with "new" and look at my control arm - looks like directional bushing installed at Axle side and solid on on Frame side. Keep in mind - bushings different in 100. Not just pressed in differently. They are different from each other.

I will just copy this setup in a picture

 

[katit]

Made more progress. Got shocks out (drilled floor for that), but 12mm bolts came out no problem. Not convenient location for sure. And that is sitting under truck, not laying. I didn't have 22mm ratcheting offset wrench so I decided on drilling floor.

Anyways.. Shocks out. Fluid out, seem to be moving smoothly. Deciding to keep them. Top mating surface for o-ring not corroded. All in all - ok-ish. Some rust on tubes under top cover which is not very good, will try to reach out as much as I can with POR 15, but I think they will last me lifetime of this truck, will keep $500.

Need help with part numbers, little confused exactly which parts I need. 2 0-rings showing and 2 gaskets on diagram. I assume gaskets go on other end which I am not touching. Any DIY here how to replace those o-rings, and is it 1 or 2?

Another pic showing that panhard bar bushing is not that strong (this is GX part number). Need new one.. Pretty much ready to place an order on all needed parts.

 

[katit]

Here we go another $1000. Already had all bushings. But after taking everything apart and making list of things to have, another parts order for:
A. All brake hoses, caliper kits, slides, hardware - stuff that I feel like need to be replaced while in there.
B. New rotors/pads - bought kit from RockAuto (PowerStop K113436 (K1134-36)) Seems like they get good reviews, figured it will be quicker than trying to figure out what bits and pieces I need to order from Toyota (shims, etc). For rear it's not super crucial anyways.
C. Bought new front steering rack "while in there" ordering shock bushings from McGeorge

Rear suspension "in progress" - Front suspension - purchased most of the expensive pieces (axles, rack)

 

[katit]

While waiting on parts need to prep everything for reassembly. Finally got to use new blast cabinet. Not sure how I lived without it before.

 

[katit]

Side rant. Partsouq shipped order without 1(one !!!!) rubber bushing. Get it, maybe it's "ok" with them to refund me $1.60 but now I have to figure out where to get this part, not like I will install old bushing in sway bar. And why it is OK to ship partial order like this? They still show in stock, they have non-OE equivalent which I would take. But no procedures on their side.

Why can't you stop order? Ask customer? This happens 2nd time now with ordering from them. Still worth it, but..

 

[2001LC]

Happens to me often, in last 12 mo. PQ does not stock parts, they're a portal to suppliers. I'd rather they drop parts off order, than hold to fill. I've had shipping delays of 3 wks unrelated to parts not ready or in. When used to be 3 days to my door like clock work..
It's been going on a lot with the pandemic.

 

[katit]

Happens to me often, in last 12 mo. PQ does not stock parts, they're a portal to suppliers. I'd rather they drop parts off order, than hold to fill. I've had shipping delays of 3 wks unrelated to parts not ready or in. When used to be 3 days to my door like clock work..
It's been going on a lot with pandemic.

Don't get me started on recent delays Especially USPS Seems like 2-3 weeks is new normal now.
I wish they had "hold" option order somehow. This way I can add to order from non-OE part and proceed. Now if I want that same part $0.31 I have to pay $15 shipping.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Don't get me started on recent delays Especially USPS Seems like 2-3 weeks is new normal now.
I wish they had "hold" option order somehow. This way I can add to order from non-OE part and proceed. Now if I want that same part $0.31 I have to pay $15 shipping.

It’s affecting dealership parts depts, too. I needed the radiator lower mount brackets and dealer told me 1 week...it’s been almost 3 weeks now. Shoulda just bought from PartSouq like I normally do, but local dealer price-matched, to my astonishment.

 

[2001LC]

It’s affecting dealership parts depts, too. I needed the radiator lower mount brackets and dealer told me 1 week...it’s been almost 3 weeks now. Shoulda just bought from PartSouq like I normally do, but local dealer price-matched, to my astonishment.

Price matched PQ, WOW!

 

[suprarx7nut]

I was second owner of my LX and the fluid wasn’t maintained in the AHC system for 100k miles. Eventually the globes became stiff and my choice was to spend $2500 for new Toyota parts or buy a nice lift. We were using the car for camping and off-roading, the choice was easy to make. AHC isn’t a bad system by any means, but I’m not going to spend 25-30% of the car value to retain it. Now.... had it had some resale value to keep it stock.... I would have done that. 100 series aren’t that special, yet at least.

I'm anxious to see my local dealers cave in to market demands. Their markups are atrocious and the parts counter is a ghost town.

 

[TXLX100]

I'm anxious to see my local dealers cave in to market demands. Their markups are atrocious and the parts counter is a ghost town.

Dealer Parts departments deserve what they get, good or bad..... largely for adapting to market prices and catering to online customers or not. 100% markup isn’t competitive unless you have something else to offer other than simple car parts. I lost my contact at a Lexus dealer (not even in my state), gave up on my local Toyota dealer, and now just use eBay, amazon, or Part Souq.

 

[katit]

I'm anxious to see my local dealers cave in to market demands. Their markups are atrocious and the parts counter is a ghost town.

Someone (forgot who) here in MUD listed parts which I needed, it was a dealer but supposedly parts were "at cost". I pointed that I can get it cheaper at Partsouq. Answer was that no dealer in US can sell at those prices simply because of "import tax". Don't know if true or not but that means it's pointless to try make dealers match those prices.

Yes, local dealer can match McGeorge or something, but then you need to figure sales tax vs shipping. At the end it's always easier to just run online order and not even waste time. Also I LOVE to help local businesses as much as I can.

 

[katit]

Some parts porn. Getting there. Mostly cleaning stuff and getting ready for paint and reassembly.
Shocks blasted on ends where lots of rust, bushings replaced. Look at picture of top bushings old vs new. I didn't realize new should be so different in shape

Calipers ready for reassembly. Question. What is this cosmo grease for(included in kit)?
This is another frustration. FSM (pic here in topic) calls for 2 types. Lithium soap base glycol and Disc brake grease.
I do hope this red packet is "lithium soap base glycol". As I do have another small packet included with pads and indicated to use on pad ends and backs.
So, am I correct to use this red grease on all parts with solid black arrow?

What brake lube do you use?

Prior to a family trip, I was doing a tire rotation and brake inspection and found that I had a seized/frozen sliding pin on my rear left brake caliper. I was able to extract the pin, clean and lube it. However, this led me to the FSM to determine what type of lubricant to use on the sliding...

forum.ih8mud.com

TIP: Don't order brass crush washers, they come with rebuild kit.

What grease to use on sliding pins?
What grease/lube use for piston/caliper assembly? Just brake fluid? Prefer not if possible. Brake caliper paint even though tough for temperature but won't wistand brake fluid. Prefer to not get it close to calipers until bleeding process where I will be careful with drain tube.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Some parts porn. Getting there. Mostly cleaning stuff and getting ready for paint and reassembly.
Shocks blasted on ends where lots of rust, bushings replaced. Look at picture of top bushings old vs new. I didn't realize new should be so different in shape

Calipers ready for reassembly. Question. What is this cosmo grease for(included in kit)?
This is another frustration. FSM (pic here in topic) calls for 2 types. Lithium soap base glycol and Disc brake grease.
I do hope this red packet is "lithium soap base glycol". As I do have another small packet included with pads and indicated to use on pad ends and backs.
So, am I correct to use this red grease on all parts with solid black arrow?

What brake lube do you use?

Prior to a family trip, I was doing a tire rotation and brake inspection and found that I had a seized/frozen sliding pin on my rear left brake caliper. I was able to extract the pin, clean and lube it. However, this led me to the FSM to determine what type of lubricant to use on the sliding...

forum.ih8mud.com

TIP: Don't order brass crush washers, they come with rebuild kit.

What grease to use on sliding pins?
What grease/lube use for piston/caliper assembly? Just brake fluid? Prefer not if possible. Brake caliper paint even though tough for temperature but won't wistand brake fluid. Prefer to not get it close to calipers until bleeding process where I will be careful with drain tube.

View attachment 2572712

View attachment 2572713

View attachment 2572714

View attachment 2572715

View attachment 2572716

That cosmo grease is for the seals, boots, and pistons. Lube the $hit out of them with that stuff.

 

[katit]

That cosmo grease is for the seals, boots, and pistons. Lube the $hit out of them with that stuff.

And for sliding pins, right? Not enough to lube "$s***" out of all of them. Don't need much on piston/seals. Probably going to use most for pins

 

[JunkCrzr89]

And for sliding pins, right? Not enough to lube "$s***" out of all of them. Don't need much on piston/seals. Probably going to use most for pins

Per the FSM, I used regular brake grease on the pins and pad shims, where temps get hot. I Applied all of the cosmo grease to seals, boots, and pistons only. There’s a thread somewhere on here about the differences between the two grease types and why they shouldn’t be applied to parts not spec’d by the FSM.