Katit's LX470 2000 - take #2 (9 Viewers)

[katit]

Now to the driver side..

First of all - not sure, but maybe brake fluid? Took paint off. No rust, southern truck. I will paint it of course, interesting though.

Will be honest, I was very optimistic about driver side job. I figured I will come up with a way to get everything out without lifting engine or taking anything extra out.

However, every single nut was like a lego with how to get a right angle. I am lucky I don't have much rust, and I did spray all nuts with penetrant. Here is pictures of 4 angles on how to get to those nuts.

 

[katit]

Here is 3 more. 7 of 8. Almost all through the wheel well. 2 from a bottom, 1 was by feel. I used 3/8 wobble extensions, one flex impact joint(good because it holds angle) and 3/8->1/2 adapter. YEP. Not ideal but I like my hands and I'd rather put more strain on tool.

I DID buy spline socket 14mm but it slips over those 14mm nuts (tried on those 3 cat to manifold nuts) and it's useless. Maybe specifically one I got, but I used regular 14mm Hazet socket.

Aaand.. It wouldn't come out. No way. Not sure, lifting engine or removing steering column which one will do it?

... Will go do some cleaning of parts/garage and then decide what to do next

 

[katit]

Cleaned plastics, getting frame/stuff clean so I can start re-assembly (when I get motor jacked up and manifold replaced...)

Started to clean area with metal brush, pretty decent chunk of frame had paint flaking. My guess - brake fluid which PO didn't take care of. Or, maybe mechanic did something and didn't cleanup..

 

[katit]

Here we go another 2 hours. Jacked engine like so. It's probably 1 inch, maybe 1.5.. With only DS mount unbolted.

Removed dipstick as well.. Unbolted fan shroud too so fan doesn't hit it.

And voila! It did come out. Kind of hold shield and manifold together. It needs to twist a little (flanges up) and then it come out through opening above cat pipe. See below:

Clean all of those from carbon. Don't look at wetness, it's brake clean, I was spraying whole thing to get it clean after removing carbon.

So. Just one very front cylinder had a crack, but big one. This is reason I am replacing those..

 

[katit]

Usually they say reassembly easier than assembly. Well, for this one (DS) I kind of lost my patience. I did start all 8 nuts but had to stop. Reattached engine mount, reattached catalytic. And cleaned/painted. It's down a hill now, will finish this and passenger side another day.

New stuff

Taking care of next guy. I feel generous. What is the chance next guy will actually be doing this??

Painted 2 layers

 

[katit]

Driver's side done. Passenger side almost done, I was doing other things, just need to tighten all, no big deal.. Looks like tuck was treated with something. Some kind of what I can best describe as "caked on grease with dirt". Maybe it is grease with dirt, but it was distributed pretty even. It came out of plastics with degreaser. It's just interesting for southern truck. I am not complaining about it at all because there is no rust anywhere.

Took a picture of tools I been using. People ask why do I have so many tools and those "weird" ones all were used on this job.

 

[katit]

Truck had radiator "service" done. I noticed non-original hoses and clamps but didn't pay too much attention. Just ordered original ones. And of course "Ts"
Today drained all coolant, removed hoses. Man, looks like hoses were all trimmed?? WTF.. At least fluid came out pretty clean, I won't have to flush it, just replace with Toyota one.

 

[katit]

Making progress.
Manifolds replaced, running smooth - not ticking, no smell!
Radiator hoses replaced with correct factory hoses and clams. Original coolant.
Heater Ts replaced. One broke while disconnecting from a hose

Bunch of vacuum hoses replaced. Breather valve replaced, oil fill cap gasket replaced.

Hose in question below. New one is too big where it goes to passenger side valve cover. I ended up using warm clamp, but this isn't right. Wrong PN? Mid year change?

 

[katit]

Spark plugs replaced. Right side coils all had oil on them. I haven't done valve covers on this engine, not sure if it's the thing? I see those tubes have Blue seals. Left side have black seals. Not sure if left was replaced? Or right was replaced but not good?

One spark plug was loose. Few more were hand tight.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Spark plugs replaced. Right side coils all had oil on them. I haven't done valve covers on this engine, not sure if it's the thing? I see those tubes have Blue seals. Left side have black seals. Not sure if left was replaced? Or right was replaced but not good?

One spark plug was loose. Few more were hand tight.



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I have replaced valve cover gasket on a 4.7 before. Not a hard job actually.
If you have oil in spark plug tube then it looks like you will need to replace the VC gasket as well as the round tube seals.
If the only leak you see is oil dripping out from the side fo the VC, then I recommend checking torque on the valve cover bolts first - I can't remember the exact torque but many times they just need to be tightened.

 

[katit]

And, with new fuel hose will it start??

It did start. But took some cranking. Once started - runs good. I did heat cycle to burn off any anticiease from manifolds and get coolant going.
Once hot. I shut it down - and no start! Cranking for a while 2-3 times and it started.

I noticed when I just bought it it would take little more cranking than usual to start.

Today in a morning I wanted to start and it wouldn't. Cranked for long time a few times and nothing. Then gave it small pause, cranked and it started within a second... Very weird. And it runs smooth and good..

After searching it seems that I may have few different problems:
a. EFI fuse
b. Immobilizer
c. Fuel pump/pressure

I might have to open separate topic on this. I don't want to start throwing parts at it, but I really want to figure it out.

Any "real time" way to see there is no spark? Perhaps connect probe light to injector?

Any real time way to see there is no pulse to coils? Connect probe to something?

Do we have connector on fuel rail to check fuel pressure?

 

[katit]

I have replaced valve cover gasket on a 4.7 before. Not a hard job actually.
If you have oil in spark plug tube then it looks like you will need to replace the VC gasket as well as the round tube seals.
If the only leak you see is oil dripping out from the side fo the VC, then I recommend checking torque on the valve cover bolts first - I can't remember the exact torque but many times they just need to be tightened.

I feel like someone "was there". For now I am going to leave it alone just because I need to start driving it.
But. I do see rubber under VC bolt washers crumbling/squeezing out. And I do see some sweating on corners. Very light. No leaks or drips. OK by me (previous BMW owner haha).

 

[ClassyJalopy]

And, with new fuel hose will it start??

It did start. But took some cranking. Once started - runs good. I did heat cycle to burn off any anticiease from manifolds and get coolant going.
Once hot. I shut it down - and no start! Cranking for a while 2-3 times and it started.

I noticed when I just bought it it would take little more cranking than usual to start.

Today in a morning I wanted to start and it wouldn't. Cranked for long time a few times and nothing. Then gave it small pause, cranked and it started within a second... Very weird. And it runs smooth and good..

After searching it seems that I may have few different problems:
a. EFI fuse
b. Immobilizer
c. Fuel pump/pressure

I might have to open separate topic on this. I don't want to start throwing parts at it, but I really want to figure it out.

Any "real time" way to see there is no spark? Perhaps connect probe light to injector?

Any real time way to see there is no pulse to coils? Connect probe to something?

Do we have connector on fuel rail to check fuel pressure?

a. and b. If you turn your key to second position (Just before cranking) and the security key light goes off on the dash then your EFI is fine. More details here: EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/efi-relay-bypass-kit-immobilizer-fix-for-uzj100-lx470.952811/#post-10604408

c. there is no pressure test port on the fuel line AFAIK - so the only way I have checked it is diconnect the fuel line after the fule filter and turn ignition on. if it squirts then it is probably good enough.

From the symptoms you share it doesn't look like you have a spark problem (runs smooth once started). I can't recall how old is your fuel pump and fuel filter. It is rather easy to check circuit resistance on the fuel pump to verify it isn't on it's way out.

I'd say check your EFI first then fuel pump.

 

[katit]

I'd say check your EFI first then fuel pump.

Thats a plan then. I still don't have AC panel in (because of stereo install) so can't see security light. That was top item on a list and I will do it first then.

As far as pump - it's 190k truck, I don't have record of pump replaced. But whole fuse box was replaced a year ago. That might be actually something... Maybe they had this issue and dealer's fix was new fuse box?

 

[Trapper50cal]

I was chasing intermittent "Crank No Start" for a while...replaced the "Engine Room Block Assembly" (Big Fuse/Relay box under hood) and thought that had fixed it but it came back and became more and more frequent. Replaced Fuel Pump and it went away completely.

 

[katit]

I was chasing intermittent "Crank No Start" for a while...replaced the "Engine Room Block Assembly" (Big Fuse/Relay box under hood) and thought that had fixed it but it came back and became more and more frequent. Replaced Fuel Pump and it went away completely.

Sounds very similar. For now I ordered adapter and fuel pressure gauge. Will install it and see what's going on. I kind of want to see it happening

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Thats a plan then. I still don't have AC panel in (because of stereo install) so can't see security light. That was top item on a list and I will do it first then.

As far as pump - it's 190k truck, I don't have record of pump replaced. But whole fuse box was replaced a year ago. That might be actually something... Maybe they had this issue and dealer's fix was new fuse box?

If your fuse box is alreafy replaced then more than likely you don't have an EFI issue.

I had a similar experience as @Trapper50cal where I ended up replacing the fuel pump. My old pump was only 2 years old with abt 20k miles when it failed. OEM too!
More here: Builds - The Story of Blue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-story-of-blue.1244337/page-29#post-14850388

 

[katit]

Hm. Will see. Should get pressure gauge this weekend. It runs, so pump working even if intermittent. I should be able to see no/low pressure when no start condition. Replacing with OE is kind of expensive. I wonder how bad $60 fuel pump from Rock Auto will be. Seems like very easy to replace.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Hm. Will see. Should get pressure gauge this weekend. It runs, so pump working even if intermittent. I should be able to see no/low pressure when no start condition. Replacing with OE is kind of expensive. I wonder how bad $60 fuel pump from Rock Auto will be. Seems like very easy to replace.

It's pretty easy. Removing the seats by oneself is a little tough, at least for me. The "70%" side was a bear. the "30%" side was easier.

As to the OEM, a company called Aisan (not Aisin) bought Denso's fuel pump business...Don't even try to buy a Denso because they don't have them in stock...anywhere. All that remains are listings that are out of date. The Aisan from the dealer or elsewhere are around $400+

In my case, the PO had provided a NIB fuel pump of unknown quality (generic branding) and that's what I used to identify that the fuel pump was the culprit but I also went ahead and bought its replacement. I went with a Delphi unit from Rock Auto as some here have had good reports on that brand and it was the nicest one they had. I also picked up a new Delphi strainer for it and a fuel filter (Wix) I sort of wish I would have just gotten the OEM on the filter.

EDIT: Actually, I went ahead and ordered the OEM filter. Got one from CruiserPatch

 

[katit]

In order to get truck moving need to install steering wheel. That where the problem is. Airbag was filthy with I don't know? Mix of melted paint, sweat and dirt? Yes, airbag plastic painted. Also, I am in a middle of house renovations and my sewing machine and stuff not accessible. And to be honest I am lazy. So, I decided to try and restore leather on a wheel. Wood is in B- condition, so it's OK.

And. I had all paint supplies from my previous truck, so why not. Prepped airbag and leather with special cleaner, scraped filth. Applied plastic primer to airbag.