Could be hearing that. Power wire and speaker wire together don’t mix
Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread
- Thread starter katit
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Are you using the stock amp?
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
As some say, garbage in, garbage out
- Thread starter
- #304
I really like ability to run Torque on screen and see whats going on via BT OBD. Also like ability to have different off-line GPS software.
One guy I know has single-din stereo hidden just for music but keeps large Android screen for other stuff. Don't think I will do that.
If I do go with something else - it will have to be Apple Play wireless. But those are $500+ from what I see
Maybe will make couple more steering wheels 
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Prices shot up due to COVID. Once manufacturing returns, prices should fall back down to "normal"
In February I picked up a W8500NEX Pioneer unit for something like $650 on Amazon.
In February I picked up a W8500NEX Pioneer unit for something like $650 on Amazon.
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- #306
Yeaah.. Not sure about that part (prices go down). Feels like they won't as long as they keep printing. Will see what happens, I may just start watching whats out there.. For now - main goal is to finish up sub hookup and see what it does.
I did adjust EQ and it helped a lot with bass. Now I feel like I am missing somewhere in a "middle". And it's mostly when driving and there is noise. It "mutes" mids making sound weird. Hard to explain, but I have to turn volume up..
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
For that, try running the Xover is 2-way mode to let the woofers spit out more midrange. It won't affect the performance of the 2" drivers at all.
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- Thread starter
- #308
Will try that. Now I am happy I mounted x-overs switch down. Will be pretty easy to pull door card on a bottom and switch
- Thread starter
- #309
Even Toyota can bring happiness
- Thread starter
- #310
Made another experiment with steering wheel. This one has "padding". Feels like those modern wheels.
Padding is a 2mm neoprene closed cell rubber, worked well.
Padding is a 2mm neoprene closed cell rubber, worked well.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
pls let us know what you think of the thicker wheel. This is how I do my classic Porsche steering wheels and I have been thinkOmg about sending out a couple of my Toyota S wheels for The same treatment.
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- #312
My personal opinion - I don't want it. Here is why. I have BMW and steering wheel in BMW feels exactly the same as this one. Same touch (softness) and same thickness. However, I do like LX just like it is so to me it's not needed. Leave sporty fat wheel to sporty cars. There is a place for everything. I am sure(and it is) this thicker wheel is better to use and more practical. But it's not how it was designed to be.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Funny, this is exactly what I was thinking when I first saw it. I like the firm tight feel of my Toyota leather wheels.
Would you sell that wheel? I love the thickness of the wheel in my M3, and my 03 LC wheel is trashed!
- Thread starter
- #315
I am back! Liking truck more and more, just keeping driving it and forgot that suspension need attention. Not really, but it rode OK-ish so I kept riding it. Well, it got to the point where I can't tolerate clunks anymore (front axles, front diff), leaking steering rack (AT205 worked for couple K miles) now I have drips. Time to work on it.
But I like to find myself "projects" and knowing if I take care of front - will not get to rear end. Thats why starting with rear end suspension and once done - will move on and finish upfront.
I had new bushings and other pieces purchased long time ago. Started with creating bushings to use with a press. For panhard bar - deep socket worked (I think 27mm?)
For upper/lower arms I had to A. Modify old chinease socket(turn it down with a step) and make another small washer for bigger bushing.
Yes. With press and precisely made to size tools - those bushes there tight! RTAB bushings in E34 BMW were even worse, but those bushings in LC100 rear end is my solid #2. Panhard bar was first and it went pretty easy so I thought it's no biggie. Arms though were not so easy. However! I came up with a trick, maybe not a trick for seasonal mechanics but it worked wonder. I took propane torch and heated arms around bushing - started to go much easier! Those OE bushes painted or have some kind of plastic around which kind of glues them in. With heat - you melt it and it becomes a "lube". I would not attempt those bushes without a press..
Verdict: Upper arm bushes - shot completely
Lower control arms bushes - pretty bad. I forgot to check orientation and position of directional bushing, will do with 2nd arm. But it's interesting! LC100 uses 2 different kinds, one solid and one directional. I will be installing both directional bushes from LC80.
Dilemma:
A. Put new bushes, put it back together and most likely I won't need to touch it ever (rear suspension)
B. Take down rear diff, it's almost out. Remove shocks and replace shock rubbers (AHC). Cleanup around, treat with POR15 in spots. Rebuild rear calipers, rebuild/check parking brakes.
Most practical will be to go with A but perfectionist tells me to do B. Decisions, decisions..
But I like to find myself "projects" and knowing if I take care of front - will not get to rear end. Thats why starting with rear end suspension and once done - will move on and finish upfront.
I had new bushings and other pieces purchased long time ago. Started with creating bushings to use with a press. For panhard bar - deep socket worked (I think 27mm?)
For upper/lower arms I had to A. Modify old chinease socket(turn it down with a step) and make another small washer for bigger bushing.
Yes. With press and precisely made to size tools - those bushes there tight! RTAB bushings in E34 BMW were even worse, but those bushings in LC100 rear end is my solid #2. Panhard bar was first and it went pretty easy so I thought it's no biggie. Arms though were not so easy. However! I came up with a trick, maybe not a trick for seasonal mechanics but it worked wonder. I took propane torch and heated arms around bushing - started to go much easier! Those OE bushes painted or have some kind of plastic around which kind of glues them in. With heat - you melt it and it becomes a "lube". I would not attempt those bushes without a press..
Verdict: Upper arm bushes - shot completely
Lower control arms bushes - pretty bad. I forgot to check orientation and position of directional bushing, will do with 2nd arm. But it's interesting! LC100 uses 2 different kinds, one solid and one directional. I will be installing both directional bushes from LC80.
Dilemma:
A. Put new bushes, put it back together and most likely I won't need to touch it ever (rear suspension)
B. Take down rear diff, it's almost out. Remove shocks and replace shock rubbers (AHC). Cleanup around, treat with POR15 in spots. Rebuild rear calipers, rebuild/check parking brakes.
Most practical will be to go with A but perfectionist tells me to do B. Decisions, decisions..
- Thread starter
- #316
And more pics
Damn dide you tackle the hard s*** and go real thorough. I was thinking you might have said...replaced upper and lower arms upright but you did bushings for both and panhard. You overachiever! Much respect. I have 150knon my truck and probably going to to the uppers soon
Well done!.
Replacing the rear shock cushions actually makes a huge difference but the AHC shocks have hydraulic hoses attached to the top of the shocks that are total PITA to get too.A ratcheting 12 mm box end is what you need along with patience of a Saint!
Or perhaps you won't be averse to the idea of pulling the carpet and maki g to strategic holes in the floor for access from the cab?
Replacing the rear shock cushions actually makes a huge difference but the AHC shocks have hydraulic hoses attached to the top of the shocks that are total PITA to get too.A ratcheting 12 mm box end is what you need along with patience of a Saint!
Or perhaps you won't be averse to the idea of pulling the carpet and maki g to strategic holes in the floor for access from the cab?
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Finally replaced PRNDL panel. That makes interior look 20 years younger
Still need couple bulbs for heater controls, but I got light, I got non-peeling plate. Interior-wise I'm almost done. Only front seat leather and steering wheel remaining, everything else looks great.
View attachment 2126372
View attachment 2126374
View attachment 2126375
Was it hard to replace the PRNDL panel?
- Thread starter
- #320
Not done yet! This is literally what I have, 3 pieces out. Need to buy 22mm wrench and shallow socket. Cannot get to remaining control arm nut next to muffler.
Debating dropping whole axle or not. If I do I will definitely remove shocks whatever it takes, making holes is not a problem..
