Wow, perfect picture, thank you! That does look like they were due. I'll get it on my list!
Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread
- Thread starter katit
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- #362
Yes, it's not a pleasant thing, I didn't enjoy drilling floor, removing, bleeding AHC, etc. But I wouldn't feel good if I didn't do it. And when I got those bushings and compared to new ones - I realized that they shouldn't be "round"
Just read this post for the first time WOW! GREAT read. Awesome work restoring and more!!
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- #364
Thanks! Currently I am taking a break from LX working on motorcycle resto. But I am about ready to jump in and finish front end work. This will conclude all interior and mechanical stuff. Only exterior/cosmetics will be left to do (if I feel like doing it ever)
Most of the parts ready, just need to clean up garage. Coming soon..
Most of the parts ready, just need to clean up garage. Coming soon..
wow what a detailed thread, l just finished reading this whole thread and as a new owner it really helps a lot knowing the stuff to look out for and with details. Great job man, really enjoy it.
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- #366
I am starting to work on front end. First was axles. I bought used set from mud member and I bought new OE outer joins. Time to rebuild. Messy, but easy. Tools I used. Paint came off with "safe" brake clean (aka acetone). Some scuffing with sand paper and fresh coat.
All clean and ready for assembly. Old ones I took apart had lot of dirst around small clamp. They were leaking. Also, grease somewhat liquid. Which made me think about clamps. Should I go with factory ones supplied? Or there is better ones and if so - I need part numbers. What about yellow ones came on new outer joins?
All clean and ready for assembly. Old ones I took apart had lot of dirst around small clamp. They were leaking. Also, grease somewhat liquid. Which made me think about clamps. Should I go with factory ones supplied? Or there is better ones and if so - I need part numbers. What about yellow ones came on new outer joins?
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- #367
Yesterday soaked all bolts and started slowly taking things apart and clean. Previous mechanics did bang on flange.. Snap ring one one side was bent. Should axle move when flange removed? I have like 1/8 play when rocking left/right.
And, found yet another 10mm socket. Seems like I always find them in used cars. And seems like they always SnapOn. This time it's impact one. Cleaned up good in blast cabinet
And, found yet another 10mm socket. Seems like I always find them in used cars. And seems like they always SnapOn. This time it's impact one. Cleaned up good in blast cabinet
Yes, I believe a slight play once the flange is removed is nothing to be concerned about. Once you do have the flanges on, there should be zero play!
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- #369
Will evaluate once I take it down apart further. So far - flange play is huge on existing axles. Tried flanges on my new axles - much less play. Flanges will be replaced, but this is observation anyways.
New flanges on my new OEM CV axle were a TIGHT fit, almost too tight!
- Thread starter
- #371
Bearings look good to me. No pitting. Very light lines I can see on pictures only. Not going to replace them, what is the point?
Took some force to get lower control arms bolts loose! Impact doesn't fit there. Was using my leg to push against 3ft cheater bar..
Question: How do I get lower control arm off? Seems like torsion bar is in a way. Or, maybe I should ask how do I remove torsion bars? I loosened them all the way, so no tension. But can't figure out how to take them off. One bolt (of 2) that attaches to control arm doesn't let torsion bar out.
Which order is the best to take pieces apart (or put back together)? I see that I better remove torsion bars before sway bar (because it's in a way).
I have all bolts loose but it's like some kind of puzzle where it's all lose but not sure how should it break down
Took some force to get lower control arms bolts loose! Impact doesn't fit there. Was using my leg to push against 3ft cheater bar..
Question: How do I get lower control arm off? Seems like torsion bar is in a way. Or, maybe I should ask how do I remove torsion bars? I loosened them all the way, so no tension. But can't figure out how to take them off. One bolt (of 2) that attaches to control arm doesn't let torsion bar out.
Which order is the best to take pieces apart (or put back together)? I see that I better remove torsion bars before sway bar (because it's in a way).
I have all bolts loose but it's like some kind of puzzle where it's all lose but not sure how should it break down
neilsen100
GOLD Star
First thing to do is mark the torsion bar and the torque arm so when you reassembly you can put them into the same spline orientation. The torque arm unbolts from the Lower Suspension Arm and slides back on the Torsion Bar. Hitting it ahead of time with some sort of penetrating oil will be helpful. I had to use a small pry bar to wiggle it back and the tap on it with a brass hammer. Once the Torque Arm clears the mounting bolt, you can shift the torsion bar out of the way.
Alternatively you can also try and pull the torsion bar forward to remove it from the back Anchor Arm. I was unable to get mine out and left it as a future headache to deal with.
Alternatively you can also try and pull the torsion bar forward to remove it from the back Anchor Arm. I was unable to get mine out and left it as a future headache to deal with.
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- #373
@neilsen100 Yep. Thats what I figured but didn't do it yet. I never dealt with torsion bars before so first I took some time to understand how it works. No I understand what "re-indexing" means. And I didn't move bar out of splines just so I put them back same way. I was hoping it won't be necessary. But oh well.
Looks like I need to mark fronts and get them disconnected just like you explained. Then it should come off
Looks like I need to mark fronts and get them disconnected just like you explained. Then it should come off
Those trashed flanges are good candidates for a machine shop to bore out and remove the female splines from. Bring them with for wheeling trips.
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- #375
What can I use them for? I can bore them out myself..
If you destroy a driveshaft or CV you can put that flange on and lock the CDL to get you home in RWD
Just like Rolocado said, if your front drivetrain has issues, you would pull the front driveshaft, swap in these bored out flanges, lock the center diff, and drive home!
- Thread starter
- #378
Another hour of disassembly. All control arms out. Some observations. Remember, 210k miles, 2001.
I DO NOT see any considerable wear on control arm bushings. Nothing horrible at least. I am not sure those need to be replaced.
I DO NOT see anything wrong with knuckles. At least visually. Needle bearings, bronze washer, all look great. Adjustments nuts were loose for sure, came out with bare hand so this might be reason for wheel wobble (when shake by hand).
I DO see both ball joints on driver side have play with bare hands. Passenger side surprisingly feels tight-ish. No history of replacing either.
I DO see both shock mount bushings shot (see pic)
Rack leaks (I knew that) - to be replaced
Front diff mounts - both that I see on a bottom have lot of play.
Aftermarket axles have lot of play axle to flange. AND, they have play in CV joint itself. I think between this and diff mount - this is mostly where "clunk" where coming from.
I was planning on bushings and balljoints replacement but feel lazy, might just go with new control arms... Will see, but looks like lots of work ahead other than those. Don't feel like.
I DO NOT see any considerable wear on control arm bushings. Nothing horrible at least. I am not sure those need to be replaced.
I DO NOT see anything wrong with knuckles. At least visually. Needle bearings, bronze washer, all look great. Adjustments nuts were loose for sure, came out with bare hand so this might be reason for wheel wobble (when shake by hand).
I DO see both ball joints on driver side have play with bare hands. Passenger side surprisingly feels tight-ish. No history of replacing either.
I DO see both shock mount bushings shot (see pic)
Rack leaks (I knew that) - to be replaced
Front diff mounts - both that I see on a bottom have lot of play.
Aftermarket axles have lot of play axle to flange. AND, they have play in CV joint itself. I think between this and diff mount - this is mostly where "clunk" where coming from.
I was planning on bushings and balljoints replacement but feel lazy, might just go with new control arms... Will see, but looks like lots of work ahead other than those. Don't feel like.
God speed man! Curious how you replace the lower shock bushing.
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- #380
In previous post I mentioned that I got all bolts broken already. So all I had to do is knock off torsion bar ends (marked with white paint first) and take things apart. So, not that fast
For shock bushings - just like I did rears. Remove shocks, make mess (or not). Replace AHC o-rings, refinish shocks, take them to press to replace bushings. Maybe machine adapters for press(if ones I have from rears don't match). Bottom line - rubber wise - other than diff mounts - shocks look the worst. Top rubbers and bottom bushings.
I am more concerned with LCA frame bushing. I can't take press to car, so I will have to figure out something with threaded rod, etc. I never had to do that (only once for E34 rear subframe) and I hate this kind of "stuff". But at least here it looks accessible.
