Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread (2 Viewers)

[katit]

Some more disassembly.

1. Shocks. I forgot I need to release AHC pressure, that was cool! Took AHC fluid bath, but luckily I had pan next to me and floor was covered with cardboard. Need to go to store - I don't have offset 22mm and can't get to the top nut with regular wrench nor socket.

2. Front diff came out. I figured I need to replace bushings and seals, so why keep it there if I am going to work on other stuff - more space around - better. Question, what is about front bushing? It's part of front cover. There is play in there (visible on camera when do R/D). What do you fix? Replace whole diff cover? Or just add some kind of washer? Open for ideas. For other 2 mounts OK, will buy new.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Some more disassembly.

1. Shocks. I forgot I need to release AHC pressure, that was cool! Took AHC fluid bath, but luckily I had pan next to me and floor was covered with cardboard. Need to go to store - I don't have offset 22mm and can't get to the top nut with regular wrench nor socket.

2. Front diff came out. I figured I need to replace bushings and seals, so why keep it there if I am going to work on other stuff - more space around - better. Question, what is about front bushing? It's part of front cover. There is play in there (visible on camera when do R/D). What do you fix? Replace whole diff cover? Or just add some kind of washer? Open for ideas. For other 2 mounts OK, will buy new.

View attachment 2701927

View attachment 2701929

That front bushing is available from Toyota. Trivial to take out when you have diff on the bench.
Typically this is the major source of drivetrain clunk

 

[katit]

Did some simple math - I think I will go with replacing bushings
4x control arms shipped will be $1300+
Bushes + 555 ball joints just under $400. So, for $900 I am OK with cleaning, pressing new bushings in and cleanup/can spray. Yes, probably going to be 4-6hr of extra work, but fine with me.

Shipping from Cruiser Outfitters was $25 for $120 set of 4 ball joints. Looks like little too much, but well..

 

[katit]

Another small update. Continuing slowly (as time permits) taking stuff apart. Yesterday I was working on rack removal. First I went by PDF found here, however I don't have a way to lift engine. I do have jack, but with car on lift I can't reach with a jack. I have HF engine brace, was thinking using it. But guess what? It's too small for LX

1000 lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar

Amazing deals on this 1000Lb Engine Support Bar at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

About 2-3 inch short to reach both fenders.

Reverted to FSM, will be removing oil filter mount. I still have o-ring and water hoses which I didn't replace last time I was there. Now is a perfect time to do this.

 

[katit]

Removed rack finally. Not bad actually, but removing oil filter mount means draining coolant and loosing some oil.
So, almost done with disassembly. Need to remove left exhaust manifold, took all bolts out but can't get this thing out. Any tips/hints? Seems like steering column need to be removed? Even though it's moving I still can't take it out..

Next steps is to inventory all parts, order and start cleaning all this mess.

Had to get this schwaben 22mm wrench. Seems like this is the way to get to top shock nuts. Socket doesn't fit, regular wrench doesn't fit. I don't have offset wrench in 22 but doesn't look like it will work there either.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I saw that you had to take off the oil filter assembly because tilting the engine was not possible on the lift. But why are you taking off the exhaust manifold?
Can't you disconnect the steering column at the rack and slide out the rack towards the passenger side?

 

[katit]

I got rack out, its on a floor I need to remove manifold to weld or replace, this is just other thing I need to do.

looks like I do need to raise engine for the manifold anyway..

 

[katit]

Manifold out. I did have to lift engine. Used transmission jack for that.

Fixed manifold. Of course first weld was good and second I messed up and went out and burned edge of flange. Had to build material back and file. Should work but of course I could have done better..

Only one most forward cylinder had crack on it. Others are good.

 

[katit]

Need assistance with seals for front driveshafts (differential side).
I assume they are directional? #1 choice (by PN) is N/A. Which ones should I get?

 

[katit]

Not sure about bearings now. @2001LC any comment on those? Those lines visible on big bearings.
I don’t see any record of it but it’s USA timken bearings. Replaced already?

 

[katit]

Parts ordered. Here we go another $1800 or so. Plus other orders from Rockauto (brakes and PS pressure hose)
For reference if anyone going to do front end work

 

[katit]

While waiting for parts - cleaned engine bay (no pics because it's still look dirty )
Start pulling parts and clean/refurb one by one. Cleaned, blasted, painted

 

[katit]

Some parts "pron" and questions. I need to work on control arms bushings. And frame bushings for lower arms.

Couple problems..
1. I am used to do those on press. Frame bushings not going to work with press (duh) I read a lot about those, will have to machine something. Rented ball joint press tool from Autozone (C-clamp type) and might need to machine exact adapters.

2. Control arms is not better. Especially upper arms config is so I can't put them in a press! Those bushes have lips making them removable one way only (outwards). Pressing in should be no problem. But removal? I was thinking about using angle grinder to cut those lips off and press them inwards to remove. Or even press on adapter so they are pushed upwards. Currently lip is so big there is no "body" around it to even hold on to. How did you guys did it?

 

[katit]

Control arm bushings is total and major PITA. I kind of regret not getting whole arms. But no way back. Today I spent couple hours working on upper arm bushings.

First I cut of washers on outside using reciprocating saw. Easy.

Next I thought I will use hole drill to get rubber core out. Simple, right? Wrong!!!
I first tried drilling with 18V drill. It would dig into rubber and stop. Batteries would overheat and die right away. Then I pulled corded HF drill. It started to smoke once I got like 2/3 deep and tension increased. Then I pulled BOSCH hammer drill. Got one core out. And it started smoking on second bush. I did cool bit in bucket. And I did use oil to reduce friction. TOTAL PITA.

Once I got core out I used reciprocating saw to notch bush side wall. And then punched through the hole on side of arm to get it squshed and it finally came out.
Surprising how much rust is there on wall. Considering arms look good it's interesting. But they were rusted in solid. Good thing I decided not to mess with press.

So, now I have 3 more upper bushings, 2 lower and 2 in frame. And overheated drill.

Thinking of other ideas to do it now...

 

[ClassyJalopy]

It may not be pleasant but I think you can burn the rubber part out.

 

[katit]

It may not be pleasant but I think you can burn the rubber part out.

Yes, thats my next idea. I can do it outside, just not sure how quick it will be. And frame bushings still need to be done in garage. I get plenty smoke from drilling already

I am thinking of other ways. But configuration of arms and bushes with lips make it totally unfriendly for press job.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Really curious how bad are your lower control arm bushings. A lot of your older bushings look like mine, so I interested to hear your opinion if the lower ones are even worth replacing

 

[katit]

So far - shock rubbers were totally shot (I will post pics and stuff later on shocks). Sway bar is so-so. Ball joints shot.

But those upper arm bushes I am dealing with is old but totally OK. Not perfect but they can live.
Lower - hard to tell. If they not completely disintegrated - by the time you cut/torch them - it's hard to tell how bad was it.

My opinion - on 210k and 21yo it is needs to be done if I'm "there". But.. it wasn't that bad.

 

[sigjar]

I wish you were my neighbor in the meantime
I use my local mechanic/dealership.

did you feel much difference after changing the differential and engine mount bushings? My lx still makes a bit too much noise over tram lines/not perfect roads. Changed ahc, all control arms and sway bars + at least one shock absorber some years back.

the steering wheel still looks great by the way! Continue the great work!

 

[katit]

I wish you were my neighbor in the meantime
I use my local mechanic/dealership.

did you feel much difference after changing the differential and engine mount bushings? My lx still makes a bit too much noise over tram lines/not perfect roads. Changed ahc, all control arms and sway bars + at least one shock absorber some years back.

the steering wheel still looks great by the way! Continue the great work!

No, it's still apart. I am working on all individual units before I even start put it together