- Thread starter
- #101
Thanks. This is what you are using for your door skins?
What thickness and grade? I obviously don't need aviation/high traffic grade.
I'll check out some suppliers.
Just get her drivable (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter onemanarmy
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Thanks. This is what you are using for your door skins?
What thickness and grade? I obviously don't need aviation/high traffic grade.
I'll check out some suppliers.
Looks to be some neat stuff. Have you thought about aluminum?
- Thread starter
- #103
Yea, thought about all types of stuff, even wood. Ha. But I have seen some 'plastic' used in some applications and just don't know what all is out there in the composite world. It needs to be cheap, to match the rest of the theme of the vehicle. And something non-metal may cut down on all the vibrations and rattles that the tin can produces.
I’m using .080” for my door skins but I’m upholstering them so I’m only using the Kydex as a better solution to the cardboard but you could use .093” or .125” and put the textured side out and it would look good bare
Link to what I'm using: https://www.interstateplastics.com/...ST&vid=201508142115-3p&kitoptionpk=2512&qty=1
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Shoot, for the time and $ you will spend, why not just get the panels from the guy that makes them for us - aram1500 or something like that? Just seems like you will reinvent a wheel that is already looking pretty good...
- Thread starter
- #106
Yea, looking in to that too. I for sure don't have time to reinvent the wheel.
Took her for a spirited drive yesterday (I think I saw 55 mph) but noticed that my hood shakes side to side a pretty good amount due to no hood bumpers. I don't think the factory ones are still available? Anyone come up with a custom solution and have any pics? Amazon and ebay sell all types of bumpers, to be sure something could be made to fit?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
SLO Cruisers has them.
- Thread starter
- #108
Think I found some (used) hood bumpers...we will see.
So I need to replace the wheel cylinders on my driver side rear wheel. Only one is leaking, but will replace both.
Rockauto only has one brand, Centric, and they are listed as left and right, not driver/passenger, for obvious reasons.
Are the cylinders really different from side to side? Is it right/left looking from the front of the vehicle? There are also front/back listed for each side, which fits the layout.
Anyone ever use the Centric brand?
So I need to replace the wheel cylinders on my driver side rear wheel. Only one is leaking, but will replace both.
Rockauto only has one brand, Centric, and they are listed as left and right, not driver/passenger, for obvious reasons.
Are the cylinders really different from side to side? Is it right/left looking from the front of the vehicle? There are also front/back listed for each side, which fits the layout.
Anyone ever use the Centric brand?
Remind me which axle you're working on? FJ40/55 pre-1980 actually use 4 unique wheel cylinders on the rear. The bleeder, and adjuster configurations alternate to make the for unique cylinders.
- Thread starter
- #110
1977 fj55, stock axles.
I know there are 2 cylinders per wheel, but my question is when I see them referred to as for "left" and "right" side, which is referring to the driver side?
I know there are 2 cylinders per wheel, but my question is when I see them referred to as for "left" and "right" side, which is referring to the driver side?
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Left is driver side and Right is passenger side. At least that's how I've been taught, as if you were sitting in the driver's seat.
on rear axle you have one Rear rear and one Rear front.
They are the same except the hole for feeding ( I don`t know the word) and one hole for bleeding. sometimes you can invert them so one reference only is needed. on my auto part store there were 4 references. driver rear rear, driver rear front, passenger rear rear and pass rear front .
They are the same except the hole for feeding ( I don`t know the word) and one hole for bleeding. sometimes you can invert them so one reference only is needed. on my auto part store there were 4 references. driver rear rear, driver rear front, passenger rear rear and pass rear front .
- Thread starter
- #113
thanks. I've only seen it as left and right, and was looking for clarification.
Since there are LHD and RHD land Cruisers, I guess that is how they have to identify them.
Since there are LHD and RHD land Cruisers, I guess that is how they have to identify them.
- Thread starter
- #114
Went to try and adjust my timing a bit over the weekend, and saw what looked like a bolt under the distribotor (one end hex head, one end square head (the nut)) and tried to loosen it. Bolt snapped in less than 1 turn. Looks simple enough to replace, but is that even the distributor clamp bolt? I am under the impression that the bolt was to be loosened and then the distributor could be turned a bit by hand to retard/advance the timing? Is this correct?
- Thread starter
- #115
Well got a new bolt to keep the distributor tight.....still not sure if the distributor can be turned while still seated on the engine?
Now I need a front passenger side window regulator, including the channel that clamps the bottom of the window in place. Somehow mine is rusted apart, and makes driving the thing a pain.
Anyone have one for sale?
Thanks
Now I need a front passenger side window regulator, including the channel that clamps the bottom of the window in place. Somehow mine is rusted apart, and makes driving the thing a pain.
Anyone have one for sale?
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #116
So I'm researching 4.8/5.3 swaps.
Been doing some reading, but still have some questions. Most of the swaps I've seen (60 and 80 series) utilize the stock Chevy auto trans....I assume mated to the stock Toyota tcase utilizing the Advance Adapters adapter (expensive)
I think I want to mate a 5 speed (NV4500 or H55) to the V8. I know there are different versions of the nv4500, which one/years do I need to source? There will need to be an adapter for the engine to trans, I'm sure. Then I'll need an adapter to mate the nv4500 to the factory t case. Does spacing of the engine/trans combo even get the shifter in a close to stock location?
Or, mate the H55 to the V8, and then would my factory t case mate to the H55? That would eliminate on adapter to offset the price of the H55....maybe. Same question about the location of the shifter on H55 mated to the V8.
OR, should I keep my 4 speed and utilize a Ranger OD? That may be cheapest? But I've read it's noisy, and I'd be setting this thing up for road trips.
What do people use for gauges? I have all the factory 55 gauges. Would I need all new gauges? Guess the factory speedo would work if I used the stock t case. The Speedhut gauges are cool (GPS speedo, etc) but are spendy too.
Then there is the addition of power steering and AC. What power steering box should I source to work with the factory Chevy pump? My 55 doesn't have AC, I don't even know where to begin on that front. Vintage air? I plan to get a complete truck/tahoe/suburban and use everything I can, so maybe some factory Chevy AC parts can be used?
What would you do?
Been doing some reading, but still have some questions. Most of the swaps I've seen (60 and 80 series) utilize the stock Chevy auto trans....I assume mated to the stock Toyota tcase utilizing the Advance Adapters adapter (expensive)
I think I want to mate a 5 speed (NV4500 or H55) to the V8. I know there are different versions of the nv4500, which one/years do I need to source? There will need to be an adapter for the engine to trans, I'm sure. Then I'll need an adapter to mate the nv4500 to the factory t case. Does spacing of the engine/trans combo even get the shifter in a close to stock location?
Or, mate the H55 to the V8, and then would my factory t case mate to the H55? That would eliminate on adapter to offset the price of the H55....maybe. Same question about the location of the shifter on H55 mated to the V8.
OR, should I keep my 4 speed and utilize a Ranger OD? That may be cheapest? But I've read it's noisy, and I'd be setting this thing up for road trips.
What do people use for gauges? I have all the factory 55 gauges. Would I need all new gauges? Guess the factory speedo would work if I used the stock t case. The Speedhut gauges are cool (GPS speedo, etc) but are spendy too.
Then there is the addition of power steering and AC. What power steering box should I source to work with the factory Chevy pump? My 55 doesn't have AC, I don't even know where to begin on that front. Vintage air? I plan to get a complete truck/tahoe/suburban and use everything I can, so maybe some factory Chevy AC parts can be used?
What would you do?
I used the 5.3 and H55 transmission, but you have to use a newer split case transfer with the H55. Cheapest might be the auto that comes with the Chevy.
- Thread starter
- #118
The nv4500 behind the 6.0 is a pain? How so? That was a factory setup I believe (even if rare), so parts and tuning should exist.
Finding a split case shouldn't be that hard.
Does it matter if the NV4500 was from a 2wd or 4wd truck when buying the T case adapter? Is a split case needed with the NV4500?
@scrapdaddy , what parts were needed to get the H55 behind the 5.3? Any issues that made it a headache? What did you do for the e-brake?
Obviously the cheapest would be the auto route, but its an old Landcruiser, they are supposed to be manual transmissions. And I want to keep my factory axles.
Finding a split case shouldn't be that hard.
Does it matter if the NV4500 was from a 2wd or 4wd truck when buying the T case adapter? Is a split case needed with the NV4500?
@scrapdaddy , what parts were needed to get the H55 behind the 5.3? Any issues that made it a headache? What did you do for the e-brake?
Obviously the cheapest would be the auto route, but its an old Landcruiser, they are supposed to be manual transmissions. And I want to keep my factory axles.
I used the AA bellhousing, mates up perfect no issues there. I used FJ60 axles that have the e brake on the rear. The new axle going in mine will have disc brakes on the rear, so I'll probably go with a line lock for brake. You're have some parts to buy no matter which way you go. With the 5.3 truck motor, you'll want the GM F body, Camaro, Hummer oilpan. The sump will be better designed for a SUA. The H55 is not the easiest trans. to find used, I bought a new one 5 years ago @ $2300.
- Thread starter
- #120
I can only speak toward my experience on parts/availability as it goes for the 6.0L:
I've used the above part on two LSx engines. It is complete and nice. NOTE: it requires use of 2005ish or later oil filters no matter the donor engine. I bought a case a filters for a 2004 6.0L that don't work with it
- Everyone and their grandmother claim that a 6.0L with NV4500 exists on every street corner. In reality, since I started my swap over 8 years ago, not a single person has been able to provide me with a VIN for one. EVER. Thus, no factory tune is available.
- I went with aftermarket tune that I'm not happy with. FWIW, an auto tune is VERY different than a manual tune. I don't recall if it was spark tables or fuel mapping tables but you will NOT get an auto tune to run a manual. YES, I tried.
- If I recall correctly, except for the early GM NV4500(to 95???), they used an internal slave cylinder that many don't like.
- The early GM NV4500 used an external slave that was on the passenger side. The bellhousings between early GM and EVERYTHING else is NOT interchangable. I found this out first hand when I ordered Advanced Adapter bellhousing and clutch parts. While it is possible to get clutch parts individually, I've seen so many different parts lists, I have no confidence in any of them. AA parts were a bit more but at least I know they were correct.
- I believe AA adapters require 4wd NV4500 whether it is GM or Dodge. A split case is NOT required but I went that route because I don't trust the strength of the older 1 piece.
- For the oilpan, you don't have to do anything but I would recommend an H3 pan and NEVER touch a F body/Camaro pan. People want arm and leg for F body/Camaro pan even used($200+). You want the following pan ( I paid $150 a pan a year ago): Amazon.com: GM Performance Parts 19212593 Oil Pan: Automotive
For ebrake, I went with new axlesNot much help, but there it is.
Thanks for typing all that...
If you didn't ever find a VIN matching a GM 6.0 to the NV4500, does that mean they were only in the 8.1 (and 454?) equipped trucks?
What year GM NV4500 did you use? Was it 2wd or 4wd? Do you know what it came out of? Did you use the 5.3 to NV4500 kit and the NV4500 to Toyota case kits from AA?
I'm not worried about the tune....that can be handled.
I could just utilize my factory 4 speed and t case, that would solve the ebrake issue, and be cheaper, but strong enough?. I'll have to investigate what the RPMs are and how the 4.8/5.3 likes not having an overdrive. (other than fuel mileage)...but that just seems lame.
