Just get her drivable

[onemanarmy]

^thanks. Still in the planning stages, and change my mind every day.

Shifting gears here.....to another subject.

The cranking/starting wiring

So yesterday I went to crank it (stock 1977 2F) and it cranked over 1 revolution and then quit. No noise. So I cycled the key about 10 times and just got a slight 'click' each time from behind the dash ( i think) Then everything was dead. No radio, no headlights, nothing, (with the key in the on position) but the battery is charged.

Then I get confused, and start messing around. I turn on the headlights just to see if they will come on....nothing. I leave the headlight switch on while I'm thinking, and the headlights come on after about a minute or so. So I then cut the headlights off and try to crank it again, and it cranks. weird. The battery terminals are clean and tight, and all the wiring is in place.

does the starter have 'contacts' that can be cleaned/replaced like on the Toyota 22r/22re starters?
Are there some relays under the dash or hood that need to be investigated?
Maybe its the key switch? But it still 'feels' ok and wouldn't explain the click and lack of power to the headlights.
kind of a side note.....why do my headlights get brighter with engine RPM? They are pretty dim at idle. Battery is good and less than a year old.

Thanks

 

[Ming89FJ62]

Check the connections at the battery (+) terminal. look for a break/brittleness in the fusible link or possibly a loose connection. The brushes on starter are replaceable if you can find them. If it's not at the battery check the fuse block for corrosion. There is no relay between the key and the solenoid. Could you have a circuit breaker replacing the fusible link?

 

[onemanarmy]

checked all battery connections..they are good and tight, and battery is less than a year old. When you say 'solenoid'...do you mean the solenoid attached to the starter?

what would cause the 'click' sound under the dash and then everything be dead? Sounds just like a relay click.

Do need to check fuses and fuseable link for corrosion.

 

[J Mack]

Why not just jump the starter solenoid to isolate the wiring issue?

 

[onemanarmy]

well...it starts now, properly, with the key.

but I won't be surprised if the issue shows up again. Then I may try that.

thanks

 

[Megadoomer]

The main positi cable should go directly to the starter. You may have an intermittent short at the starter which would disallow power to accessories.

 

[Ming89FJ62]

"solenoid" - yes the solenoid that's part of the starter motor (14 ga black wire w/ yellow trace). I don't have the schematic with me but there is no relay between the ignition switch and the solenoid on the starter.

 

[onemanarmy]

The main positi cable should go directly to the starter. You may have an intermittent short at the starter which would disallow power to accessories.

and it does.

The starter is original, and is suspect.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I used to run the creeks a lot with my old 40 and the stock starter would get corroded up, act funny. I had to clean the brushes, etc. every once in a while.

 

[onemanarmy]

Figured out the battery problem...some loose/corroded wiring. No big deal. Always check the simple stuff first.

Back to the suspension lift issue....

So the FJ55 from Kurt is a mix and match kit he put together, and requires you to move the rear shackle hanger, which I'm ok with, but if I'm going to do that, why not get a much cheaper lift kit for the 40 or 60 and just modify the rear spring hanger for those springs? Are the front springs the same length as the 40 and or 60? Many more options for 40 and 60 lift springs.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Fwiw a 40 or 60 kit will require more conversion. 55's use exclusive spring pins, bushings and a mix of 4x, 6x & 7x parts.

Comparing apples to apples, the OME 40/60 kits are more expensive than our OME 55 kit. We are revamping our suspension kits soon, the Ultimate kits will stay the same (contents and price) but the budget kit will soon match the components of the ultimate kit however aftermarket (non-OME) brands that we already carry. The 55 kit will have this as well, but it will be down the line as are 40, 60 & 70 kits are far more popular.

 

[PabloCruise]

Fwiw a 40 or 60 kit will require more conversion. 55's use exclusive spring pins, bushings and a mix of 4x, 6x & 7x parts.

Comparing apples to apples, the OME 40/60 kits are more expensive than our OME 55 kit. We are revamping our suspension kits soon, the Ultimate kits will stay the same (contents and price) but the budget kit will soon match the components of the ultimate kit however aftermarket (non-OME) brands that we already carry. The 55 kit will have this as well, but it will be down the line as are 40, 60 & 70 kits are far more popular.

Can't wait to hear more about this Kurt! Guessing you will be @ CM '17?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Can't wait to hear more about this Kurt! Guessing you will be @ CM '17?

Absolutely!

We are already working through the parts detail on the budget kits, I'm expecting the prices to be ~$200 less than their pure OME counterparts. All kits will utilize OME springs, shocks and bushings (if going greaseable).

 

[onemanarmy]

Well I'll be looking the 'budget' route, as all I really need are better leaf springs and about 2 inches of lift. She is just a pavement cruiser at this point. No need for fancy shackles, expensive shocks, or blingy bushings.

thanks Kurt

 

[onemanarmy]

So, while I wait for the larger/more expensive upgrades......I need new side view mirrors.

I have some junkyard generic arms/mirrors on there now, and they do ok, but they don't match.

Has anyone fitted 62 or 70 series style mirrors? Or anything similar?

thanks

 

[Megadoomer]

For Sale - FJ55 MIRRORS

 

[onemanarmy]

Thanks...meant to say non stock FJ55 mirrors

not a fan of the looks and not a fan of the price.

I actually had the stock mirrors for a while, but one was broken and took them off.

 

[PabloCruise]

For Sale - FJ55 MIRRORS

Yep, like a Boss...

 

[onemanarmy]

Bumping this back up, as plans have changed a bit, but still pushing forward.

Have the 3" light kit from Kurt and 33*10.5 bfg AT to install...with the AFI fuel injection kit after that.

Been tackling windshield rust, and this will be done (ugly but weather tight...I'm no body man) before lift and tires. Too much patina is not a good thing.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I feel for you man, I'm not a body guy either and that would pain me to do. Keep at it.