Just get her drivable (2 Viewers)

[WarDamnEagle]

The gasket goes on the flange and the collar goes on the stub end of the exhaust pipe. There should be enough exhaust pipe sticking through the flange to accommodate both. Not sure what you mean by the collar being unsymmetrical. It should be perfectly round but with a U shape cross section which goes over the exhaust pipe stub end (with the U inverted).

FWIW, Toyota still sells that gasket for half the price of CCOT. https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotaofrichmond.com/search?search_str=90917-06003

As far as I can tell, that collar is NLA.

 

[onemanarmy]

that is perfect.
thank you!
its not symmetric in that it has a "u" shape cross section as you show so it was intended to be installed a certain way and not just as a spacer.
(and I got the gasket from Toyota, just used that link as an example....thanks again)

 

[onemanarmy]

Another dumb question....

When I did all this work, I never pulled the distributor. Didn't see a reason to.

Now that its all back together, I have fuel and spark, but it won't fire, not even try to fire.

There would be no reason to re-time this thing, right?

I did spin the engine over a bit to clean the tops of the cylinders some, but never pulled anything that would mess with timing.

Just making sure....I don't know why it won't fire or even sputter.

Thanks!

 

[trainbufftony]

Another dumb question....

When I did all this work, I never pulled the distributor. Didn't see a reason to.

Now that its all back together, I have fuel and spark, but it won't fire, not even try to fire.

There would be no reason to re-time this thing, right?

I did spin the engine over a bit to clean the tops of the cylinders some, but never pulled anything that would mess with timing.

Just making sure....I don't know why it won't fire or even sputter.

Thanks!

Spray some gas down the carburetor...
Hard to imagine it getting out of time but you could static time it and make certain that when the flywheel pointer is at TDC and both rockers are loose on #1 that the distributor rotor is pointing at the wire that goes to #1.

 

[onemanarmy]

The injectors are spraying fuel in.
But now I've got gasoline seeping out where the exhaust mates up to the manifold.
What have I done!? Ha.
.

 

[trainbufftony]

Pull your fuel pump fuse and see if it will start and burn off what's in there.
(check ignition timing first)

 

[scrapdaddy]

Did you set the valves on the new head job?

 

[RUSH55]

Are all your rockers adjusted?
I imagine you set the rack on there and bolted it down and called it good.

 

[trainbufftony]

Yeah, if you deck the head you effectively make the pushrods longer and potentially the valves are not shutting if you don't run through them and adjust them all as the manual describes.
She'll run strong after that!

 

[onemanarmy]

I put all pushrods back in and bolted the rocker arms back on. I do not know how much they decked it.
I did nothing to the head once I got it back....the professional shop was supposed to clean it, pressure test, and do 'valve job'.....I got charged for it anyway
I have not adjusted rocker/valve clearance yet, that's on my to-do list once I know it will run and let it get hot
I watched it turn over and all valves go up and down
Did not pull the distributor
.
.
Fuel is coming out at the exhaust manifold connection. I know that should not happen.
.
Maybe this......there is a crack next to the repaired crack..... looking under the TBI unit....
.

 

[trainbufftony]

Crack is a problem (don't do crack) but its not a keep it from starting type problem

 

[RUSH55]

You’re positive you have voltage at the coil and your new spark plugs are gapped correctly?
All your TBI connections are connected and everything that needs voltage has voltage and everything that needs ground has ground?

 

[onemanarmy]

All is plugged back in, the 1 ground cable I disconnected is back connected, injectors are spraying, have spark (checked a plug against the block while cranking), just JB welded the crack seen above, now am going to set rocker gap from FSM. The engine is cold, but it will get me in the ballpark. Plugs are gapped as they were when it was running last. Plugs might have 500 miles on them so I knocked the crud off them and checked gap. It ran great before all this, just got hot quick.
Then will check timing for sanity.
.
We'll see!

 

[samc2447]

Start with the basics. Confirm you have fuel and spark. Confirm the valves are close to spec.

A machine shop valve job would just mean they lapped the valves and installed the shims. Since you had the camshaft out, it would be you who set the initial valve clearances. If you didn't do that, use the figures below to set it when you have it at TDC and then rotate 360deg. to set the other valves.

Just for posterity sake, confirm you are in correct time and not out a tooth or two. Put the flywheel on the BB so the motor should be at TDC. Confirm the distributor is pointed towards #4 as shown below. The first 2 valves from the front should be closed and the gap close to the spec. As long as they're closed at TDC you should be good to start it even if they are not exactly in spec.

You can further confirm that you are at TDC by removing #1 plug and inserting a long screwdriver or similar into the plug hole, you should almost immediately hit the top of the piston. If all that lines up then your ignition timing is definitely good enough to get it to start so long as there are fuel and spark.

It's possible that the TBI flooded the pistons and there is too much fuel to start it, which is why you're seeing it weeping out the exhaust gasket. Disconnect the TBI injectors. Remove the plugs and let it dry out a bit. Put the plugs back in but leave the injectors disconnected. Try to start it with some ether and see if you're getting it to kick over.

 

[onemanarmy]

Thanks for that!^

I went through and triple checked.
-Timing
-Adjusted valves
-JB Weld manifold crack
-Added water/coolant
-Rotated it all by hand to make sure it was all spinning

And it cranked and runs and sounds great!

However, it got SUPER hot within 3 minutes, like I watched the temp gauge move quickly from cold to hot and it was boiling and steaming all over, but no steam from exhaust pipe, so that is good

I did drain all the coolant out of the block, so maybe its got some air pockets?.....I'll be working through that and will report back

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Thanks for that!^

I went through and triple checked.
-Timing
-Adjusted valves
-JB Weld manifold crack
-Added water/coolant
-Rotated it all by hand to make sure it was all spinning

And it cranked and runs and sounds great!

However, it got SUPER hot within 3 minutes, like I watched the temp gauge move quickly from cold to hot and it was boiling and steaming all over, but no steam from exhaust pipe, so that is good

I did drain all the coolant out of the block, so maybe its got some air pockets?.....I'll be working through that and will report back

small block chevy time.... JK. I would "burp" the system. Get one of those funnels that attach to the radiator. Then put the front of the truck on ramps or jack the truck up in the front. I have also filled the head with a funnel through the temp sensor port. thats gotta be air in the system.

 

[onemanarmy]

Already looking at LS adapters.......

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Already looking at LS adapters.......

there is the one marks adapter that keeps the tcase and trans in the same spot. Its for a sbc though. I think thats what I will do if mine blows up to be honest. that or diesel swap. who knows though, in the future there may be some really cool electric swap. Anything to keep these pigs on the road! The 2f I swapped in mine seems to be a good one.

 

[PabloCruise]

Also:
I always clean the bolt holes out really good prior to reassembly especially the head bolt holes. Ive cleaned lots of gunk out of them by running a tap down em to chase the threads then slurping them out with a shop vac and magnet.
If your bolt bottoms out on crud you can torque it, think its tight and not actually have it applying its full force to the cylinder head in a downward direction.
Takes 20 minutes but nobody ever lost a race because their engine was too clean.

Clean threads are always a good way to go.

 

[PabloCruise]

And to bring it full circle.....the rocker stand bolts do not need sealant. I guess someone had removed the rocker stand bolts before me. The bolt holes are not open to any water passages.

Thanks for all the input

If you really want to have some fun, post a thread and ask what sealant (or anti-seize) will do to your torque spec.
People will lose their minds.
It will be glorious...