WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
You should really read through the FSM as there is a lot more to it than just setting that torque. However, to specifically answer your question, here is a cut and paste from the FSM:
Just get her drivable (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter onemanarmy
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- Thread starter
- #382
I'll browse the FSM
but that pic looks like the preload is being checked on a bench
i'm just curious if anyone that is smarter than me has figured out a way to torque the pinion properly (with old bearings and shims) with the diff in the axle with shafts and tires attached.
but that pic looks like the preload is being checked on a bench
i'm just curious if anyone that is smarter than me has figured out a way to torque the pinion properly (with old bearings and shims) with the diff in the axle with shafts and tires attached.
Simple answer is yes... Get a chunk of angle iron around 2"X1/4"X3' and drill two holes that line up with two holes on your drive flange (you'll probably need to grind out a spot to get the pinion nut socket on) then let the angle iron rest on somethin solid like the ground or frame while you torque the pinion nut.
The not simple answer is it sounds like you have other problems.. Before I ordered any parts I would pull your drive flange and inspect your front bearing and spacer / shims, that should tell you within 90% certainty what's going on in there. Take detailed pictures and ask for help if you're not sure what you're looking at.
- Thread starter
- #384
understood on getting the torque values while holding the pinion from turning. but then checking preload on the pinion?
or is that not that big of a concern if just replacing the seal and not touching the gear set and bearings (and as long as the shims are good and installed as from the factory?
Thanks!
or is that not that big of a concern if just replacing the seal and not touching the gear set and bearings (and as long as the shims are good and installed as from the factory?
Thanks!
You check the preload exactly like the FSM @WarDamnEagle posted said to do...
Pull your axles and grab an inch pound beam or dial wrench and note what it takes to spin the pinion.
I use the one on the bottom.
Pull your axles and grab an inch pound beam or dial wrench and note what it takes to spin the pinion.
I use the one on the bottom.
Is this where the missing 10mm goes? 
I just got some of those twist on socket holders. They are so pro! I love them!
I’m not a a sloppy as Jmack though w my 10mils. You can also tell by his finished work, as well.
I’m not a a sloppy as Jmack though w my 10mils. You can also tell by his finished work, as well.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
That’s just the stuff in the kitchen ‘catch-all’ drawer that was robbed out of the night-stand.
- Thread starter
- #389
So in trying to keep track of all my projects....I forgot I had swapped fj60 diffs in years ago. Ordered the marlin crawler pinion seal and the wrong pinion nut.
But I took it all apart anyway, and all I have is the grey solid bearing retainer, the seal and a nut. No shims or other spacers.
Is this correct for an fj60 diff?
Also, I had installed new multidrilled flanges for the fj60 diffs, but the dust shield has come off the flange won't go back on. Do I need that? It seems that I do, to keep crap from getting up in the pinion/seal area. Best way to re-attach? Was thinking of applying a thin layer of jb weld.
New seal on bottom left
old seal bottom right
Grey spacer/bearing rider top left
Bearing top right.
Bearing feels fine and the bearing race inside the pinion feels super smooth. Axle is quiet and stays cool at speed.
Am I missing any parts?
Thanks!
But I took it all apart anyway, and all I have is the grey solid bearing retainer, the seal and a nut. No shims or other spacers.
Is this correct for an fj60 diff?
Also, I had installed new multidrilled flanges for the fj60 diffs, but the dust shield has come off the flange won't go back on. Do I need that? It seems that I do, to keep crap from getting up in the pinion/seal area. Best way to re-attach? Was thinking of applying a thin layer of jb weld.
New seal on bottom left
old seal bottom right
Grey spacer/bearing rider top left
Bearing top right.
Bearing feels fine and the bearing race inside the pinion feels super smooth. Axle is quiet and stays cool at speed.
Am I missing any parts?
Thanks!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #390
aight...got the correct pinion nut, made a bar to hold the pinion, and torqued to 150ft lbs
drove it about 15 miles and have no leaks or noises.
its a win until its not!
new item: it wants to run hot, like into the last 1/4 of the gauge and bubbles out of the overflow. This happens at speed, and takes it about 10 minutes to get to 'too hot'
I only drive this thing about 100 miles a year, it has a 4 year old waterpump, full clean coolant/water mix, no coolant leaks, no oilwater mixing, fan is working w/shroud, and I took the thermostat out to check if it still would over heat....and it still does.
the only thing I've messed with other the past years is the timing to tweak it after the fuel injection install. It idles great, runs strong, no smoke...would a degree or 2 timing adjustment make it overheat?
drove it about 15 miles and have no leaks or noises.
its a win until its not!
new item: it wants to run hot, like into the last 1/4 of the gauge and bubbles out of the overflow. This happens at speed, and takes it about 10 minutes to get to 'too hot'
I only drive this thing about 100 miles a year, it has a 4 year old waterpump, full clean coolant/water mix, no coolant leaks, no oilwater mixing, fan is working w/shroud, and I took the thermostat out to check if it still would over heat....and it still does.
the only thing I've messed with other the past years is the timing to tweak it after the fuel injection install. It idles great, runs strong, no smoke...would a degree or 2 timing adjustment make it overheat?
- Thread starter
- #391
Pic for attention
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RUSH55
SILVER Star
Check it with a heat gun to make sure your sending unit or gauge isn’t reading wrong.
What’s the story with the radiator? Is the external and internal clean?
What’s the story with the radiator? Is the external and internal clean?
- Thread starter
- #393
No need for a temp gun. I can feel the intense heat when I park it. Way hotter than all other engines I have. It steams/bubbles out of the overflow bottle for 10 minutes once I cut it off. Radiator is clean inside and out. Clean 50/50 water coolant mix. Fan and shroud are intact. No thermostat. It will sit and idle for days and not overheat. No air flow blocks in front of the grill.
If the water pump impeller was broken internally, that would kill the pump bearing right? Or make some noise? Water pump spins fine and doesn't leak.
If the water pump impeller was broken internally, that would kill the pump bearing right? Or make some noise? Water pump spins fine and doesn't leak.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
If the impeller was broken it could cause the bearing to go out on vibration, which again would likely cause it to leak out the weep-hole.
So let’s go through the list -
Radiator
(clean inside and out)Proper radiator cap (?)
Fan
Water pump
(newish, possibly still questionable?)Coolant
(fresh)Fan drive belt (tight?)
Thermostat (no thermostat?)
Hoses (not kinked? good condition?)
First you should reinstall a thermostat and be sure it’s sealed properly. The system is designed so that hot coolant has a period of time to exchange heat in the radiator and not just continuously cycle through.
Then I’d be interested to see what cap you’re using, and the fan, whether it’s direct drive or has a clutch.
If all that checks out, and the cooling system is completely perfect, the next step would be a leak-down test.
- Thread starter
- #395
Will check all that and report back 100%, however I've driven this thing for 15 years and no issues. One failed water pump that I replaced 5? Years ago along with factory shaped coolant hoses.
Its been fine, around town and highway since 2011. Same rad, cap, hoses, thermostat ,and always clean coolant. I drive it maybe 200 miles a year. And only work on it very occasionally.
Then 2 years ago it started to run hot kinda out of nowhere, so I removed the thermostat to rule that out. No change. Still hot. It does not leak coolant anywhere while running and coolant is topped off.
Diving in !
Its been fine, around town and highway since 2011. Same rad, cap, hoses, thermostat ,and always clean coolant. I drive it maybe 200 miles a year. And only work on it very occasionally.
Then 2 years ago it started to run hot kinda out of nowhere, so I removed the thermostat to rule that out. No change. Still hot. It does not leak coolant anywhere while running and coolant is topped off.
Diving in !
Everyone hates to do it, but step 1 is a compression and leak down test when weird things are happening. Then throw time and money at it.
- Thread starter
- #397
this nagging thought for a year now is head gasket......i need to dive in
please no!
please no!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
My 78 40 was exactly like that! Never found the problem. I could drive for 2 hours at highway speeds and when I stopped it started pissing and moning and girgling. T stat no, water pump NO, cooling flush NO, Air trapped NO! I always flushed my coolant through the block so NO entrapped air! So just took T -stat out in Summer and put back in winter. Oh and used stainless hardware to ease the Seasonal change
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Head gasket???? You would have water in Earl . If Earl is clean dont go that route. Could be a little piece "O" 
blocking coolent. Dont think the worst to start with
. If Earl is clean dont go that route. Could be a little piece "O" blocking coolent. Dont think the worst to start with
