Just bought an 1974 FJ40 in Bolivia

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F series motors had hardened valve seats and good guides from the factory.

No big deal...

71 carb can be run, but as I recall the 74 has bigger venturies so there may be a slight power loss. However, pinhead/Mark/Jim would know much better than I. Add the difference between U.S.spec and what you have and it's certainly not my forte..
which is at least 100x more than I know - thanks
 
Wow thanks for the info guys. Yes I've got a bunch of vac leaks. If I flood the carb gas leaks out a bunch of places around the base.
I just turned the adjustment screw on the side of the dizzy. Didn't do anything to how it ran. Points checked out between 9-11 thousands and don't looked burned. I'd don't know if that is right but that's where airplanes run them. The little vacuum diaphragm on the other side of the dizzy still works but there doesn't seem to be enough vac at idle to move it if I pull the hose off and stick it back on. I can move it if I suck on the hose.
 
Im not worried about power loss. Up until 7 years ago I was a broke college kid running around the country in 1982 Toyota pickup with the 2.2L diesel (non-turbo). I think it came new with 62 hp. I always hoped for the triple semis on the interstate because I had a chance of drafting them everything else was to fast [emoji6]
 
I scrounged through my parts this past weekend. The fuel pump I have is off a 76 so I don't believe it will work for your 70. But what I do have that I think will serve you better is a set of greasable anti-inversion shackles 1" over stock length. That will give you about 1/2" of lift. They are new and never mounted. These, I think will better serve you in that environment or make good "Trade'n stock". It may be towards The end of the week before I can get these posted. Is there a particular name or mission # you want me to use when I send them out? God Bless and good luck.


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So here's a couple pictures of the stuff.... all the rod ends are brand new and I think there's enough to replace everything on the front of a FJ40 - they are from a 71, but they should work on yours. Even if not, with the numbers of FJ40s down there, I'm sure you can trade with someone if these don't work.

the alternator, and the regulators - I've no idea if they work or not (along with whether or not the vacuum whatchamacallit works (doomahitchy?))

I'm not using anything from these axles - the heavy bits would probably be tough to put in carry-on, but if you need any of it - simply let me know... Do let me know which (or both) of the hubs you want. Or anything else to help out, I'm a white-collar worker by day, but I do cars/trucks/4x4s so if I don't have it, I can get it...

the rod ends on the axle without a yoke are brand new and complete the set for the other ends



who knows, maybe I can swing a trip down there to install them... :)
I have a used drag link and the original starter from my 77 that might be of help-if you can use them, tell me where to send in Tn.Also have the old tie-rod ends from the tie rod and relay rod--not bad, just have the rubber split
 
Thanks man! Those shackles look awesome. They were on my wish list as mine as kind of tired/homemade??? That should help the saggy back end a bit too.
This one is a '74 and is has the fuel pump on the side of the engine block and the tank under the pax seat. I have no idea if the pump is stock or if a 76 pump would work. But I can post a picture.
BTW has anyone put a later model gas tank under the tub of an early model to extend range? Is it hard to do? Gas stations here are a long ways apart.
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I think everyone one this forum is a pack rat of sorts. If you do a cursory search for auxiliary tanks in the
search bar it pulls a ton of "how to" and "been there done that" threads that should help you considerably with selecting, mounting and operating a secondary petrol tank.

Gospel Mission Aviation, Inc.
4726 White Oak Drive
Ooltewah, TN 37363

Is there any additional info I need to include? Your mission number? Location etc that will ensure the parcel I send gets to you? I'll try and have them in the post toward the end of the week.
 
I think I'd find the best weldor in town and get after the frame cracks and the crossmember mount before your cruiser collapses in the middle somewhere inconvenient. Try not to hire the guy who did some welding on that mount - he won't help a lot. You need well penetrated welds and then some plate steel to add support. If you're in La Paz ask around for the best body repair place. Plumb amazing what some of those guys can do with what you think are the most rudimentary tools and methods - but you need the right one. There'll be some who smile and promise the world, take your money happily, and you find yourself stuck broken not long afterwards.

Also, I think you mentioned wanting to put an aussie locker or other similar type in the front. I think you'd regret that because as nice as they work they have a tendency to lock/unlock unespectedly and that's not a steering surprise you'll like if you're going by El Camino del Muerte. In the back, OK, but leave the front for one you control.

Keep the split rims. They're easier to change tires once you learn to do it and inflate them safely. And those tires are available everywhere (except USA). Are they 8 ply? They're tough go-everywhere tires made to survive as best possible in parts of the world without freeways, tow trucks, and gas stations on every block.

Leave your ideas of what makes a cruiser cool in the US behind. There's nothing cooler than an FJ4x doing what it does best in places where few other vehicles reliably make it, and that's exactly what you've shown us. Damned good shape too, considering.
 
good advice - the best way to handle local conditions is look at what the locals use. That said, if a locker is too expensive, buy tire chains - chains are absolutely amazing in the mud - and in greasy mud, sometimes a locker is actually the worst thing to have because rather than going forwards, you go sideways (in the direction of gravity).
 
I'm thinking clearer about fuel pumps. I've had trouble with them on the airlines so probably not worth bringing. I'll do a search on aux tanks. My other option is to add more GNV tanks.
That address is it. We are just a startup so no big bureaucracy to get stuff lost in. I should have someone coming in early June to bring the parts.
I'll think again about the lockers. And I was going to order chains as soon as I get tires and know the size I need. I was thinking that a front locker wouldn't bother me too much as I don't really plan on using 4H. I was thinking of it more like a self recovery tool. An old African missionary told me he always drove his [brand new...[emoji27]] FJ40 across the savanahs in 2WD so that if he got stuck he knew he could get out without help. Maybe a front locker is still a bad idea for the whole mud scenario. I really wanted TRuTrac LSDs but they don't seem to be available for Toyota 9.5 diffs, and the price shows that their proud of those things. Will a rear Aussie bother me for occasional city driving?
I did ask at the Toyota dealer if they could weld my frame but since they didn't import it, they won't work on it...bummer. I can weld better than the guys working on cars on the curbs and that's not saying much. I'll keep looking.
90% of the LC rigs here run the bias ply 7.50x16. I haven't found the 33x9.50s that I wanted and the only radial MT type is a 235/85/16. Honestly the pizza cutters look like they would throw more mud even once the center tread is worn down. I wanted more height but so far the 7.50 are the best choice. I think they are up to 12 ply here, what ply should I get? I certainly won't stand out, which is a great thing!
Is 85-140 gear oil good for the tranny and how much do I need?
 
I was thinking that a front locker wouldn't bother me too much as I don't really plan on using 4H. I was thinking of it more like a self recovery tool. An old African missionary told me he always drove his [brand new...[emoji27]] FJ40 across the savanahs in 2WD so that if he got stuck he knew he could get out without help.
Is 85-140 gear oil good for the tranny and how much do I need?

5 gallon gas cans hung on the back work pretty well.

Let me assure you (this is not the voice of reason but experience - though the thought of how it happened does still make me chuckle) using the old African missionary's trick is a really good way to get stuck to the point of where you'll be walking out. 4x4 isn't 50/50 where either axle has similar traction abilities. In most cases, it's more like 75% rear, 25% front. Where the front helps you is where you're in stuff that the front end needs to climb over rather than be pushed through. That means, you bury your rear wheels, and you're now stuck to where, had you been in 4x4, you would have made it through because it would have climbed before you got buried. The best tool that you have for not getting stuck is that bit on top of your shoulders. This line "I would never have ____ if I had known..." fits for pretty much everything. Let's fill in the blank - I would never have eaten the poisonous food if I'd know it was poisoned", or "I never would have gotten stuck, if I had known the ground was soft" In both cases, if you don't trust the food, don't eat it. If you don't trust the ground, walk it never drive somewhere to "see if you can make it." Or, put another way, don't annoy your guardian angel.

4wd gets you places you would otherwise be walking, and 2wd isn't as bad as you might think - I've still yet to find a situation where a Baja VW bug wouldn't have worked at least as well (okay, rock walls, not as much... but the point remains).

Also, it's far better to be in four wheel drive and not need it than wish you had been in it. 2 wd is for highways and well-trod gravel roads... four wheel drive is for everything else - let your guardian angel tell you later about how stuck you would have been if you hadn't followed this advice.
 
Aaron's (me) rule of 3 - always have 3 ways to solve a problem and 3x the amount of supplies that you need. I do Search and Rescue, and have 3 days food/fuel even though the longest mission will be 18 hours (by law).... so here's how it plays out.

Always have at least 3 ways to solve a problem. For example - you're stuck, without another vehicle to remove you. You have 1) a hi-lift jack and tools to properly use it, 2) a shovel, and 3) good tennis shoes to walk home.

How I learned this rule.
I went wheeling in the snow and got stuck. I had no shovel, no base for my hi lift jack, and moon boots. I can attest that you can walk 20 miles in moon boots - but having decent shoes would have saved me a substantial recovery time.

Today, if I were to head to the hills. I have, a well-maintained 4x4 with lockers front and rear, winch, gas cans, mechanic tools, tow rope, snatch strap, high lift jack, gloves, shovels (snow, dirt), chains, logging chains, food for 3 days (plus a day of snacks), gear to survive to 0 degrees, several fire starters, stove, GPS, batteries, flashlights, water... lots of water, ways to make water pure, trekking poles, well used (but not worn out) hiking boots, gaters, wet-weather gear, chem lights, axes, saw, radios (HAM, CB, FRS/GMS), shelter for outside the vehicle, extra clothes, socks, first aid gear (medical responder), 1st aid training, survival training, responder (not EMS, just slightly less) training, a gun, Bible, several knives, hat, long underwear... and I'm sure I'm forgetting some of what's there. Point is, I never ever want to be so close to killing myself again through my own stupidity. I also have 30 years of experience from the date that happened.
 
I can't agree more with SuperBuickGuy (SBG) about not relying on 4wd, lockers or not, to a point where you think you won't get stuck. Thinking like that is a sure way to GET stuck.
 
I had an Aussie in the front of my 40 for awhile. I hated it. It was my first locker and was in the rear originally. But, I do a lot of pavement driving so, I got an ARB for the rear and put the Aussie up front for better street performance. That set up effectively takes away regular 4 wheel drive (i.e. when driving on snowy/muddy roads, or when you just need a little extra oomph). It acted more like a spool up front than an auto locker. It worked great when wheeling, but that isn't the only kind of driving I do.

For a daily driver, my advice is to save up for an ARB. They aren't foolproof since they are air actuated, but the ability to turn it on and off is a huge bonus. The next best is putting the auto locker in the rear. You will feel it driving around on pavement, but it is manageable. I drove with the Aussie in the rear of my 40 for several years. The last place I would put an auto locker is up front in your situation. For your type of driving, I think you will be unhappy with it up front.

Good luck! Props to you for what you're doing in Bolivia. As you can see, this forum is full of people that are willing to help out with whatever you need. Keep posting!

:cheers:
 
Well that is why I'm here, to try to learn the easy way before its too late. Thanks for the instruction, really I mean it.
I like the idea of having 3 ways to solve the problem. A Hi-Lift and shovel are going to live in this rig along with tire chains, straps, tube patch kit etc.
Thanks for the jerry can advice. Problem here is that its illegal. Gasoline is a controlled substance. I still need to ask if even an aux tank is legal. Yeah that means if you run out they won't sell you any in a jug either!
Funny fact about fuel pumps and airline travel. Pump and bomb share a word in spanish. "Fuel Pump is literally translated "Bomba de combustible" which can also mean "combustible bomb"....needless to say it doesn't go over well with airline security in Spanish speaking countries. I almost lost a $900 aircraft fuel pump in Lima, Peru that way. In fact it was one of those experiences that I call miracles that got us through that time.
As far as lockers I guess I need to get out there and see what kinds of conditions I'll find before making a decision. I'm still inclined to buy at least one lunchbox and get it down here in June where I could try it out.
Quick question. 250 weight gear oil is half the price of 85-140. Is it a good option for tranny, t-case, diffs?
Found a carb rebuild kit today! It sure won't make my carb a pearl but it might let me do a few trips before June when I can get stuff from the States. Also found front knuckle seal kits, look like cheap junk but it is great to know that there is stuff to keep things rolling in a pinch.
I got to look at a new drive-shaft and realized how bad mine is. Trouble is they say the F series rigs had a different drive-shaft than the 2F?? And so they don't have anything that will fit. Worst cast I strip the teeth and limp home right? or is it worse than that?
Here are some amusing pictures from the lowlands after a rain shower...where we are now is much drier..like Colorado. Out of 40-50 city vehicles stuck 15-18 km in on this scenic road only one made it out that night, an FJ45 with ~20 people in the back. Thankfully we were walking (on purpose) but even that was difficult. The river was twice as high on the way back out. A friend of mine was running a school back in there and traveled that 18km several times a week with his stock '78 FJ40.

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I had an Aussie in the front of my 40 for awhile. I hated it. It was my first locker and was in the rear originally. But, I do a lot of pavement driving so, I got an ARB for the rear and put the Aussie up front for better street performance. That set up effectively takes away regular 4 wheel drive (i.e. when driving on snowy/muddy roads, or when you just need a little extra oomph). It acted more like a spool up front than an auto locker. It worked great when wheeling, but that isn't the only kind of driving I do.

For a daily driver, my advice is to save up for an ARB. They aren't foolproof since they are air actuated, but the ability to turn it on and off is a huge bonus. The next best is putting the auto locker in the rear. You will feel it driving around on pavement, but it is manageable. I drove with the Aussie in the rear of my 40 for several years. The last place I would put an auto locker is up front in your situation. For your type of driving, I think you will be unhappy with it up front.

Good luck! Props to you for what you're doing in Bolivia. As you can see, this forum is full of people that are willing to help out with whatever you need. Keep posting!

:cheers:
 
I'm coming up with 75/90 weight oil as recommended. I think 250w oil would be way too thick - then you get noisy synchros, especially in the morning (and a lot of grinding gears).

I love the pictures of the mud, two things - 1) chains would save you there, and 2) you want the locker in the rear. Lunchbox lockers (and I like them, enough that I'm putting them in both ends of my '40), have a few issues that you need to be aware of. 1) they act like a spool (meaning, tying both wheels together) especially when you get on the throttle in a corner. It means instant understeer - which actually is a lot of fun once you're used to it, not so much the first couple times you find yourself turning the wheel yet still aiming for the ditch (get out of the throttle). and 2) they can be kind of noisy when they do ratchet.

there is an auxiliary tank that you can get for a fj40 - it expands the tank to under the driver's seat as well. Of course, that doesn't solve your problem about the perhaps illegal, but if it does they come out of Australia.
 

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