Just bought an 1974 FJ40 in Bolivia
- Thread starter DJBHM
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I don't know what shipping would cost to get it to you, but I have hubs, brand new steering rod ends, and other misc. stuff from my build (not much Toyota left in mine) that I'd have no problem sending to you to help in your endeavors.... let me collect all the stuff up this weekend, if it's not too heavy or a fortune to send (or get through customs) - I'll get them to you.
- Thread starter
- #25
Wow thanks, that would be great! That will help with the budget! If you could ship them to TN that would be perfect. I'm working on getting a buddy to come down and help me for a week or two and he is planning on bringing some stuff that I can't get here.
Gospel Mission Aviation, Inc.
4726 White Oak Drive
Ooltewah, TN 37363
Gospel Mission Aviation, Inc.
4726 White Oak Drive
Ooltewah, TN 37363
Small world, I think I know you folks. I was going to ask if there was a drop-box in the US. I'll get all the stuff out, if you need anything else, let me know. Oh, and you can't talk about this outside of on here - we wouldn't want the world to change its mind and decide I'm a decent person...
So here's a couple pictures of the stuff.... all the rod ends are brand new and I think there's enough to replace everything on the front of a FJ40 - they are from a 71, but they should work on yours. Even if not, with the numbers of FJ40s down there, I'm sure you can trade with someone if these don't work.
the alternator, and the regulators - I've no idea if they work or not (along with whether or not the vacuum whatchamacallit works (doomahitchy?))
I'm not using anything from these axles - the heavy bits would probably be tough to put in carry-on, but if you need any of it - simply let me know... Do let me know which (or both) of the hubs you want. Or anything else to help out, I'm a white-collar worker by day, but I do cars/trucks/4x4s so if I don't have it, I can get it...
the rod ends on the axle without a yoke are brand new and complete the set for the other ends
who knows, maybe I can swing a trip down there to install them...
the alternator, and the regulators - I've no idea if they work or not (along with whether or not the vacuum whatchamacallit works (doomahitchy?))
I'm not using anything from these axles - the heavy bits would probably be tough to put in carry-on, but if you need any of it - simply let me know... Do let me know which (or both) of the hubs you want. Or anything else to help out, I'm a white-collar worker by day, but I do cars/trucks/4x4s so if I don't have it, I can get it...
the rod ends on the axle without a yoke are brand new and complete the set for the other ends
who knows, maybe I can swing a trip down there to install them...
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
Well done sir, well done....K-A-R-M-A at it's finest. It is not by accident that these things come about....Mr Buick guy, I'll clink a glass of "ale" with you any day!!
- Thread starter
- #30
Is the carb stock? I had a melancholy moment last night talking to another missionary who has an FJ40 and two FJ45 for his school. One of them has the natural gas conversion like this one and he said they have had lots of trouble with the carb wearing out.
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
I think I may have a spare fuel pump and starter that will fit a 74. I'll look through my stash this weekend for any additional kit....Same caveat ^ ref: customs and shipping. Would it be easier to ship to your sponsoring church? That may off-set the cost. For that matter if your sponsoring church is sending you anything we may be able to send directly to them and they, in turn, could ship out to you....Any-who, I'm in...
I'll send the spare carb - natural gas or propane both don't lube like regular gas, so you can have trouble with valve guides and anything that moves in the carb (such as the butterfly on the bottom of the carb - it will wear and give idle issues). The other issue with pressurized gas is availability - you can't just grab a 5 gallon can and get on your way.
The good side of pressurized gas is you will never have to do another oil change (okay, I kid, but 15,000 miles and the oil will still look brand new). Also, it will run in any position.
I'll send the carb - the conversion kit you have only put a spacer above the carb, so reversing it or running it on regular fuel should be easy (just remove the system and fill it with gasoline). However, it's never that easy, so figure at least new fuel lines and perhaps a quick carb rebuild of new seals, new needle valve, and new gaskets... presuming, of course, that the tank is still in place
The good side of pressurized gas is you will never have to do another oil change (okay, I kid, but 15,000 miles and the oil will still look brand new). Also, it will run in any position.
I'll send the carb - the conversion kit you have only put a spacer above the carb, so reversing it or running it on regular fuel should be easy (just remove the system and fill it with gasoline). However, it's never that easy, so figure at least new fuel lines and perhaps a quick carb rebuild of new seals, new needle valve, and new gaskets... presuming, of course, that the tank is still in place
So, was the cruiser set up as dual fuel? You still have the fuel lines and seemingly all of the gasoline parts.
There would be some sort of switch to go back and forth between propane and gasoline.
There would be some sort of switch to go back and forth between propane and gasoline.
- Thread starter
- #34
Yes it is set up as dual fuel and runs on both. There is a switch in the cockpit. The GNV is less then half the cost per mile. All the same everyone tells me the engine won't last very long for the reasons you guys mentioned. My question is how long? I just pulled that spacer off the carb and tied it up to the firewall because the installer didn't adapt the air box and the spacer was making all sorts of gaps for dust to get in. So it will be gasoline only till I figure that out.
I can't seem to get her running smooth or idling very well. The whole carb and throttle linkage is super sloppy, the choke cable is frozen and the adjustments don't seem to do much. I tried playing with idle mixture and speed and I tried moving the timing adjustment a half turn either way. I only get small changes with the carb adjustments and none with the timing and it stumbles and misses a bit anywhere in the power band no matter what. I am at 12,000 feet here so I'm not sure how that is affecting things.
A couple questions...
the gasoline barely shows in the sight glass ..normal?
The second barrel or the carb? Should it do something? It's dry all the time and just has some kind of counterweight deal that holds the butterfly closed with nothing to move it. Airplanes don't have double barrel carbs [emoji55]
Do these have thermostats? If I believed the temp gauge it looks like it runs open circuit all the time.
I have what seems like a lot of play in the front diff. The pictures show how far the driveshaft will rotate when in 2H. When the T-case is engaged in 4H or 4L there is almost none.
I've got a home base in the state where I ship everything to and then I figure out how to get stuff sent with people who are traveling. Here's the address.
Gospel Mission Aviation, Inc.
4726 White Oak Dr
Ooltewah, TN 37363
I can't seem to get her running smooth or idling very well. The whole carb and throttle linkage is super sloppy, the choke cable is frozen and the adjustments don't seem to do much. I tried playing with idle mixture and speed and I tried moving the timing adjustment a half turn either way. I only get small changes with the carb adjustments and none with the timing and it stumbles and misses a bit anywhere in the power band no matter what. I am at 12,000 feet here so I'm not sure how that is affecting things.
A couple questions...
the gasoline barely shows in the sight glass ..normal?
The second barrel or the carb? Should it do something? It's dry all the time and just has some kind of counterweight deal that holds the butterfly closed with nothing to move it. Airplanes don't have double barrel carbs [emoji55]
Do these have thermostats? If I believed the temp gauge it looks like it runs open circuit all the time.
I have what seems like a lot of play in the front diff. The pictures show how far the driveshaft will rotate when in 2H. When the T-case is engaged in 4H or 4L there is almost none.
I've got a home base in the state where I ship everything to and then I figure out how to get stuff sent with people who are traveling. Here's the address.
Gospel Mission Aviation, Inc.
4726 White Oak Dr
Ooltewah, TN 37363
Looks like standard vac secondaries so it won't automatically unless the motor is under a load. That carb needs to be rebuilt badly. the mixture screws only adjust idle speed and mix.
Propane..
A motor can run for a very long time on propane. There is no degradation to the motor because of it. Gasoline is a solvent, not a lubricant. If you do not run a carb off of gas for a while the gaskets dry out and can cause vac leaks. That is the main downfall. It's not the propane that has killed the carb, it's the age of the carb. My FJ40 has run propane only since about 2004. Still runs perfectly.
Oil breaks down with age regardless of the color. Change it every 5K miles or once a year at a minimum.
1/2 turn with the timing and no change?? Something is way off. Or is that the little knob on the side of the dizzy? You need a timing light to see what the motor is actually timed at.
A vac gauge can do wonders for tuning a carb. I bet you have some serious vacuum leaks.
Your diff is probably just fine. I'd worry more about getting it running properly if I were you.
Propane..
A motor can run for a very long time on propane. There is no degradation to the motor because of it. Gasoline is a solvent, not a lubricant. If you do not run a carb off of gas for a while the gaskets dry out and can cause vac leaks. That is the main downfall. It's not the propane that has killed the carb, it's the age of the carb. My FJ40 has run propane only since about 2004. Still runs perfectly.
Oil breaks down with age regardless of the color. Change it every 5K miles or once a year at a minimum.
1/2 turn with the timing and no change?? Something is way off. Or is that the little knob on the side of the dizzy? You need a timing light to see what the motor is actually timed at.
A vac gauge can do wonders for tuning a carb. I bet you have some serious vacuum leaks.
Your diff is probably just fine. I'd worry more about getting it running properly if I were you.
the problem with GNV or Propane is on non-hardened seats and on non-valve-guide motors. The 74 ran on Regular gas, which had lead (and you might still have leaded fuel available there in Bolivia). Mace is right that a propane motor will last as long as a non-propane motor in the States - since both will destroy valve seats, guides, and the butterfly valve on the carb using unleaded gas.
That issue is probably the single most common failure on an older FJ40 - unleaded runs hotter and does not lubricate like leaded gas - thus you burn valves, crack heads, and blow exhaust gaskets.
That issue is probably the single most common failure on an older FJ40 - unleaded runs hotter and does not lubricate like leaded gas - thus you burn valves, crack heads, and blow exhaust gaskets.
You know, if you're going to run on gas - I can rebuild the carb that I have before I send it... I might even have a kit. But I need input from the 'Cruiser guys (like Mace).... is the carb on a 71 similar enough that he can run it on his 74?
F series motors had hardened valve seats and good guides from the factory.
No big deal...
71 carb can be run, but as I recall the 74 has bigger venturies so there may be a slight power loss. However, pinhead/Mark/Jim would know much better than I. Add the difference between U.S.spec and what you have and it's certainly not my forte..
No big deal...
71 carb can be run, but as I recall the 74 has bigger venturies so there may be a slight power loss. However, pinhead/Mark/Jim would know much better than I. Add the difference between U.S.spec and what you have and it's certainly not my forte..
