Who's Disc Brake Conversion Kit did you use? I noticed a post where you mentioned widening your wheels. I am having my OEM steelies widened to 8"
Builds JPs '74 Resto-Mutt
- Thread starter 74HogGuy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #102
@tstepp920 - the kit was from BTB. I only went that route because another member posted it up in the classifieds for a decent price. If I were to do it again I would contact Poser (Steve) as he sells the machined rotors, brackets, hoses, tabs, etc. He was super helpful as some of the parts were missing by the time they got to me (Thanks USPS.....) The calipers you can just pick up from Autozone. I haven't tried to mount my steelies on yet, but they cleared the V6 calipers I'm running up front so I'm not concerned.
I have seen references to Poser's kit. But for some reason I didn't think he made one for 1980s
Thanks. I will send him a PM
Thanks. I will send him a PM
Sorry for the hijack, but could you say where you're getting your steelies widened? I've been looking locally and can't find anyone to do it. Also, about what's the cost?
- Thread starter
- #105
@abtx4x4 - I had mine widened by Stockton Wheel 3 years ago for $130/wheel + shipping there and back. I only found a couple of places in the states that widen rims. You may hit up @GA Architect as he had someone in Georgia that did his. Either way you'll probably have to ship them. About $25/wheel via FedEx if I recall correctly.
Contact GA Architect His man is who I will be using
- Thread starter
- #107
Bought an assortment of brakelines today.
I got the pre-length PAJ lines that already have the flares. Given I'm a rookie at this I figured it'll save me at least making one less flare with the cheap loaner tools from the father in law.
Got one tombstone tab welded onto the axle housing. Decided to mount the caliper up front with the soft line running over the ubolt flip plates.
First line is sort of bent the way I'd like it. Just need to shorten and flare the end.
The short side on the other hand is a different story. I want to weld the tab on the inner portion of the housing, but doesn't leave me much room. The plan is to weld it on as shown below and then take the hard line and make a full spiral back towards the tab. We'll see if it actually go as planned tomorrow.
I got the pre-length PAJ lines that already have the flares. Given I'm a rookie at this I figured it'll save me at least making one less flare with the cheap loaner tools from the father in law.
Got one tombstone tab welded onto the axle housing. Decided to mount the caliper up front with the soft line running over the ubolt flip plates.
First line is sort of bent the way I'd like it. Just need to shorten and flare the end.
The short side on the other hand is a different story. I want to weld the tab on the inner portion of the housing, but doesn't leave me much room. The plan is to weld it on as shown below and then take the hard line and make a full spiral back towards the tab. We'll see if it actually go as planned tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #108
Spent the day practicing making double flares and was not happy with the quality of the flares from the HF loaner tool. Given my kiddos will be riding in it I decided not to cheap out. After reading recommendations I decided to pick up one of these:
Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool - Eastwood
The father-in-law said he'd split the cost as he needs to redo the lines on his Triumph TR3.
I did work on welding the short side tab on and getting lines mocked up.
Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool - Eastwood
The father-in-law said he'd split the cost as he needs to redo the lines on his Triumph TR3.
I did work on welding the short side tab on and getting lines mocked up.
Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
If you turn the T 90 degrees counterclockwise your short line will be much easier to mate up and flare. Given those really tight quarters. That's assuming all 3 entries are the same. It's been a while since I did those.
- Thread starter
- #110
Unfortunately the main line in (perpendicular to the axle) is a different size. I think the spiral will work...I'm just waiting on the flaring tool to come in before I get too crazy with the remaining bends. I've been reading your brake line thread like crazy! Amazing work!
- Thread starter
- #111
Stuff for this weekends project came in. These low-range off-road shock mounts look like they are going to work just fine.
- Thread starter
- #112
Couldn't wait for the weekend so I knocked out the rear axle tonight. And let me say...the Eastwood flaring tool is worth every penny. Super quick and two pulls and you have a perfect flare. No slipping of the tube and no crooked off center flares.
jim land
SILVER Star
what is your plan for the bump stop
- Thread starter
- #114
The plan right now is to get the axle mounted back in and finish up the brakes. I'm looking at the RuffStuff traction bar and once I can get it 40 out of the garage I'll flex the rear suspension and fab some bump stop mounts up.
- Thread starter
- #115
Was hoping to get more done this weekend, but ended up running out of town for family stuff, but I got after it this afternoon.
I modified the low range off-road shock mounts on the grinding wheel. These are made for 2.5-3" axle housings and the crossmember is 2" so I grinded the set to get a tighter fit.
Had to pick up a new bottle of gas for the welder Friday and switched out my .025 back to .030 to weld the mounts on.
Not the best looking welds as there was absolutely no room to work given this was right up against the tub. It did look like I was getting good penetration though.
Axle is now in place under the 40. Also got the diff cover painted and installed.
I modified the low range off-road shock mounts on the grinding wheel. These are made for 2.5-3" axle housings and the crossmember is 2" so I grinded the set to get a tighter fit.
Had to pick up a new bottle of gas for the welder Friday and switched out my .025 back to .030 to weld the mounts on.
Not the best looking welds as there was absolutely no room to work given this was right up against the tub. It did look like I was getting good penetration though.
Axle is now in place under the 40. Also got the diff cover painted and installed.
- Thread starter
- #116
The only thing I'm not sure on are the shocks are not straight up and down. The upper sits a little further back and the bushing is slightly binded getting them installed. I'm hoping once there is weight on the springs and the shackles move back the angles will improve.
- Thread starter
- #117
The 40 is finally is finally back on its own weight.
For those wondering the clearance of widened steelies and the calipers. Let's just say it's tight!!! But everything fits fine.
I'm also glad I went ahead and changed out the wheel studs for longer ones. Plenty of thread for the lug nuts.
I'm also pretty happy with the shock position and have to say the Low-range off-road shock mounts worked perfectly for those wanting to do a spring flip. The shock sits about 2-3 degrees from 90 and after lubing the bushings they slide easily on and off.
Next up some plumbing on the front and off to the driveshaft shop to have the rear lengthened.
For those wondering the clearance of widened steelies and the calipers. Let's just say it's tight!!! But everything fits fine.
I'm also glad I went ahead and changed out the wheel studs for longer ones. Plenty of thread for the lug nuts.
I'm also pretty happy with the shock position and have to say the Low-range off-road shock mounts worked perfectly for those wanting to do a spring flip. The shock sits about 2-3 degrees from 90 and after lubing the bushings they slide easily on and off.
Next up some plumbing on the front and off to the driveshaft shop to have the rear lengthened.
- Thread starter
- #118
Was hoping to get the brakes done before this got here, but oh well! Motivation to get the brakes done over this long weekend so I can get it out of the garage and the new cage in.
Really happy with the rear supports rather than the usual diagonal bar that you usually see in the rear of the MT family cages. Also glad I opted to have it pre-built as you can tell there it's a lot of work that goes into welding one of these up.
Really happy with the rear supports rather than the usual diagonal bar that you usually see in the rear of the MT family cages. Also glad I opted to have it pre-built as you can tell there it's a lot of work that goes into welding one of these up.
That is a nice and beefy looking cage man.
- Thread starter
- #120
Thanks sir! Just wanted something to keep the kids good and safe since the wife is always skeptical. Your paint job looks fantastic. I vote back flares
