Builds JPs '74 Resto-Mutt (1 Viewer)

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The 40 is finally is finally back on its own weight.

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For those wondering the clearance of widened steelies and the calipers. Let's just say it's tight!!! But everything fits fine.

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I'm also glad I went ahead and changed out the wheel studs for longer ones. Plenty of thread for the lug nuts.

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I'm also pretty happy with the shock position and have to say the Low-range off-road shock mounts worked perfectly for those wanting to do a spring flip. The shock sits about 2-3 degrees from 90 and after lubing the bushings they slide easily on and off.

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Next up some plumbing on the front and off to the driveshaft shop to have the rear lengthened.

Sweet sticker!
 
Didn't plan on replacing the brake line that runs along the frame rail, but after trying to remove the old softline the choice was made for me. I got it knocked out tonight.

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I have to say, after using the east wood flaring tool, I have no problem redoing brake lines lol. I put it off for a long time thinking it would suck, pulled it out finally and have to say the hardest part of brake lines is now just bending them lol.
 
I have to say, after using the east wood flaring tool, I have no problem redoing brake lines lol. I put it off for a long time thinking it would suck, pulled it out finally and have to say the hardest part of brake lines is now just bending them lol.

Agreed! Or getting the thread started on the dang flare nuts!
 
Agreed! Or getting the thread started on the dang flare nuts!

or that! Especially the parts i had painted and had some paint in the first couple threads.

Was just funny as my neighbors dad stopped by and looked at my "scrap pile" of bent up brake lines. Asked me whats wrong cause the flare looks good. I just had to tell him it was the crappy bending job.
 
Started on some low tech bracket making today for my proportioning valve. Old vice on a stump, hammer, and some map gas.
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Next to clean it up and paint it and then started plumbing the master.
 
So are your wheel cutouts finished or are you still working on them?

So I decided to hold off moving the fronts. I did enough to decide I like the way it looks so next up will be modifying the new replacement quarters and replacing my rear sill. Might as well spend the time on the final product that something I'm going to replace quickly.

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So I decided to hold off moving the fronts. I did enough to decide I like the way it looks so next up will be modifying the new replacement quarters and replacing my rear sill. Might as well spend the time on the final product that something I'm going to replace quickly.

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Oh wow. Have u considered bud built quarters? You can order them with custom cuts or not cut at all for the fender opening. I know you already have quarters but if you could send those back it might make things a little easier for you. Just an idea throwing out there
 
@White Stripe - I'll have to check again, but I think I passed on them before as they don't have the factory rolled lip along the bottom of the fender and I was trying to keep that look.
 
So when you mock stuff up you should actually mock stuff up in the way the finished product will be.

Let's just say I didn't take the nuts off that hold the master to the booster and miss the fact that a relief would need to be cut around the raised part of the master for it to sit flush.

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Let's just say the paint didn't agree with cutting and grinding the relief in. I get to repaint tomorrow, but decided I'd finished mocking everything up.

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This may not seem like a lot, but I had to remove the existing line that runs along the firewall and down to the passenger side so that I could trim a couple of inches off and re-flare the end. Trying to fish the old line out from behind all of the hoses and wires coming out of the firewall was a huge pain in the @$$.

You can see the excess hard line in this pic.
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After I trimmed, re-flared with new fitting and tied into the proportioning valve.
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Pic of the backside of the bracket.
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I started on the front line that goes down the the axle, but my brake tubing was too short. I'm hoping I can find someone open tomorrow that has some brake tubing.

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Where did you purchase the fenders from?

Fenders are from CCOT, but I picked them up off of mud years ago.

Edit: Passenger side front fender came from my local dealership and the driver side came from Germany (Patrick here on mud)
 
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Knocking out some more brake lines. Got the short side done and the caliper loaded.

I had to take my dremel and grind out the tab where the soft line and hard line tie in. The newer style end was quite a bit bigger.

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Chugging along. Front axle hardlines are done. I got the driver side locking hub installed. Getting those c-clips around the birfield can definitely test the patience! Especially after it shoots across the cross a couple of times.

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This may not seem like a lot, but I had to remove the existing line that runs along the firewall and down to the passenger side so that I could trim a couple of inches off and re-flare the end. Trying to fish the old line out from behind all of the hoses and wires coming out of the firewall was a huge pain in the @$$.

You can see the excess hard line in this pic.
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After I trimmed, re-flared with new fitting and tied into the proportioning valve.
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Pic of the backside of the bracket.
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I started on the front line that goes down the the axle, but my brake tubing was too short. I'm hoping I can find someone open tomorrow that has some brake tubing.

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I'm stealing your bracket idea..........
 
@White Stripe - I'll have to check again, but I think I passed on them before as they don't have the factory rolled lip along the bottom of the fender and I was trying to keep that look.
I think they are 3/16" thick to keep from getting dented easily, but no they don't have a lip. You could weld a lip on. But u already have quarters you seem to like so that's cool
 
80 series non abs master? And what booster?

You've got a standing invite to come down and plumb my 40 anytime! Great job!
 
80 series non abs master? And what booster?

You've got a standing invite to come down and plumb my 40 anytime! Great job!

Thanks! Let's just hope it's not a leaking mess come tomorrow when I bleed the brakes.

Booster is the dual diaphragm booster that City Racer sells. I'd recommend his products all day long. Same with the prop valve.
 

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