Builds JPs '74 Resto-Mutt (1 Viewer)

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Busy Sunday night in my chaotic garage. One day I'll have a shop and some room to spread out.

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Finished the last of the brake lines! Pretty stoked to get to this point. Also really happy with how the front hardline turned out going down to the front softline.

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Got both locking hubs installed! The passenger side c-clip went on first time!!! Better lucky than good. The front axle is 100% done for the first time since January 7th of this year.
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Are you using that poly line that's hand bendable? Buy it in bulk?

I'm using that Poly-Armour coated steel line. You can hand bend to some extent, but still need tubing benders. I used mostly cut to length pre-flared pieces. I still ended up cutting them to length so they'd look good.
 
Busy day! After flipping my springs the pinion angle changed some so I swapped out the 6 degree shims in the back for some 2 degree steel shims from georg.

Unfortunately the driver side spring pin threads were so bad that I couldn't reinstall. So I used a bolt temporarily so I could get some progress done.
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I ripped out the old rear wiring harness and installed the new one that coolerman made me. Still have some electrical grimlins to chase as I don't have brake lights.
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Painted my bracket again and my father in law came over and helped me bleed the brake system. NO LEAKS!!! I'm proud to say.
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And the moment I've waited for all year!

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The kids were the only ones brave enough for the maiden voyage down the driveway.
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My oldest was super excited to cruise around.
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Also the first time I've had a chance to get a good view of the axle moved back. I think once I move the forward part of the wheel opening back some it's going to look fantastic.

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Crawled under to measure for my rear drive shaft tonight and decided to check my angles one more time now that I've installed the 2 degree shims. T-case is pointed down 3 degrees and the differential is pointed up 3 degrees. I'd say the new shims are perfect.

Now to get the driveshaft lengthened from 22" to 26"

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Spent the weekend at the lake doing some much needed camping, fishing, and relaxing with the family.

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Tackled getting the old roll cage out as soon as we got back today. I ended up either breaking or cutting all 16 of 16 bolts that hold on the stock roll bar. :bang:

Looks naked without anything there now.
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Unfortunately I uncovered some rust that will have to be addressed before I can install the new MT cage. I knew going in that I would have to remove the rollbar supports in the fender wells, but didn't expect to have to patch holes. The plan will be to go ahead and cut out the plates with the captive nuts since they will not be used in the future and go ahead and eliminate potential rust spots.

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Picked up my driveshaft from the shop. Lengthened a little over 4 inches. They retubed and balanced it. Also replaced one the u-joints as it was shot.

The OCD in me and take it all apart again to clean and repaint.

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And for anyone who is curious it was $231 for that work.
 
Started tackling cutting the rust out from where the Original rollbars mounted. Plan is to remove the wheel well supports since I'll be using the MT frame tie ins.

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You can see how bad the rust was. The PO used some kind of caulk which accelerated the rust around this other support bracket.
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Fitting a replacement patch. I cut up a Manila folder and traced out the shape. Then used a jigsaw to make the cuts.
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Started welding it in place and you can see along one of the humps (where the caulk was) the metal is super thin from rust. I was blowing through it was too easily. I'll finish welding this patch in place and then cut a narrow strip to cut out the side of the hump.
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I don't even know if I want to admit how much time I have just in this one spot. 3 more spots to go. At least I figured out a better way to remove the wheel well supports.

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Trying to recreate the factory humps is a pain...really gaining an appreciation for these guys on here that have gorgeous welds and finished products.
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Not perfect...but it's going to have the MT cage covering most of it up.
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Got the passenger side knocked out today. Starting to get better at grinding the welds down better and blending them out. Pretty happy with the last two patches.

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Spent quite a bit of time scraping up rubberized bed liner.
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Drilling spot welds may be the worst part of this entire project. Maybe it's just the cheap HF spot weld cutters that make it difficult.
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Got a lot of rusty parts knocked out.
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Do u use cutting oil on your bit? It will drill the spot welds a lot easier.

I used some wd40 to keep the bit lubed, but cutting isnt the issue. Its keeping the bit from walking all over the d@mn place even when drilling a small pilot hole. Luckily I'm almost done...at least with removing the wheel well supports.
 
Needed these like I need a hole in the head, but I had always planned to upgrade to some Bilsteins and these were a good price in the classifieds.

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The plan will be to run them without the boots and cans up. Every post I read says the boots just collect dirt and moisture and cause them to rust and fail prematurely.

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