Direction I will go in when the time comes:
Brake Caliper w/ Hardware - Left Front (Eclipse Semi-Loaded) - Remfd
Brake Caliper w/ Hardware - Left Front (Eclipse Semi-Loaded) - Remfd
Johnvee's 80 thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JohnVee
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
^^^^ Dis ones. With EBC premium greens made a giant difference in my 80
Just ordered these this morning Fronts were $59.49 and rears were $53.99, went with new rotors as well. Also going with EBC pads as @Izzyandsue mentioned, 7000 series up front 6000 in the rear.
Them there front disks are not as easy to swap as the rear, the whole hub has to come out. You done that one before?
I have not, and the reality is with my schedule at the moment I will probably have Toyota Techs do all the work. I ordered the seven piece Slee brake line kit so I am going to have them do a complete system overhaul. Whats your thought on DOT3 vs DOT4 vs DOT5 vs DOT5.1. I know the boiling points are higher, but is there any real world advantage. Sorry for the hijack @JohnVee
Stay away from DOT 5. Here is the stuff I use:
EDIT: When doing a flush of the system don't be afraid to use up quite a bit. Because brake fluid is hydrophilic (Well, DOT3 and DOT4 are, DOT5 is another critter) it absorbs a lot of water. Once the bottle is unsealed I consider it to have a shelf life of a year or less.
Also, if using the pedal pump method to bleed the brakes, be careful not to shove the pedal all the way to the floor. This can extend the very old diaphragm in the booster to the point where it fails or can push the piston in the master cylinder into a rusted portion of the bore, causing it to leak.
Sorry John!!!! Hijack off.
Last edited:
Didn't know I could use ATE on the LC! I feel a brake flush in the horizon.... Sold my last case of it when I left the racetrack, have a few cans to use... Thanks!
DOT 5 is silicone. It is not compatible with anti-lock systems. It does not absorb water. It is what is used in motorcycles for that very reason. I have used it in classic restorations in little British cars in all new or rebuilt brake systems with zero issues. It does not mix well with DOT 3 or 4 so there shouldn't be a trace of the 3-4 in the system. I wouldn't use it on LC brakes but there may be some merit to use it in the clutch components where you can easily replace all the pieces with new to set up for DOT5. Problem is remembering that it has DOT5 in there and not forgetting and using 3-4. As Rice said, probably best to stay with 3-4.
Last edited:
Core charge will be more than the part when there is little supply of cores available. Thus the premium to "incentivize" the core return for future remanufacture.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
lumbee1
Native American
I just purchased 24 Toyota OEM lug nuts off ebay for $60.
My current lug nut(s) on the left, Toyota FJ Cruiser lug nut on the right. The thread ptich is the same and the washer diameter is 30mm on both. The FJ Cruiser lug nut has more contact on the stud by several millimeters than my original lug nut.
My current lug nut(s) on the left, Toyota FJ Cruiser lug nut on the right. The thread ptich is the same and the washer diameter is 30mm on both. The FJ Cruiser lug nut has more contact on the stud by several millimeters than my original lug nut.
Inner axle seal failed, flooding the hub with gear oil, which caused the inside hub seal to fail, dripping oil down behind the rotor, and down the backing plate as pictured.
Axle seal failure on your FF.... when was the last time you rebuilt it?
If never then its about time to do it all.
If never then its about time to do it all.
Don't despair. It might be an easy fix. Check your diff breather. They tend to clog and when they do, pressure builds in the diff and forces the gear oil past the seals. Those bell cranks look a little dry. How's your parking brake? A dab o grease in the cranks wouldn't hurt.
True but in most instances the leak will return as the seal has already been compromised.
Last edited:
Okay then. Despair if you must.
- Thread starter
- #160
Thanks. That's all pretty much what @Roxx told me (and I promptly forgot that he had until now). Breathers are good. I have no idea if the rears have ever been rebuilt. At least they should be faster and cleaner to do than the fronts...so I'd hope. I'll check the FSM. So now I have front calipers and rear axle to do. Woohoo! And wheel lugs, and windshield gasket, and DS rear window track, and PS seat gear, and a wash after sitting under a tree for 2 months, etc.
Best part is I get to buy some new tools! Seal puller, 54mm F/R socket, probably something else really cool.
Best part is I get to buy some new tools! Seal puller, 54mm F/R socket, probably something else really cool.
