Johnvee's 80 thread

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Guess what's new? No torch required for the install.
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Have you made your decision on tires yet? I've kinda been looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
 
Have you made your decision on tires yet? I've kinda been looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Me too since one of my Hankooks is wearing faster than the rest. The Toyo Open Country R/T is now very high on my list since my Cruiser doesn't see as much dirt as I would like.
 
Have you made your decision on tires yet? I've kinda been looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Nope. Still debating MT vs AT, then comes the $$$ aspect. And part of me wants the Dick Cepek Fun Country simply for nostalgia. BFG AT KO2, KM2, Mickey Thompson MTZ, Goodyear MT Kevlar, and Toyo MT are all in the running.

Me too since one of my Hankooks is wearing faster than the rest. The Toyo Open Country R/T is now very high on my list since my Cruiser doesn't see as much dirt as I would like.
I have 2 Hankooks wearing faster than the others. Diagonally mounted! Arrrgh!
 
I am also on the AT MT fence. I am having a hard time justifying all the neg aspects of a MT. Heather's truck is 99% street driven and when off road there may be 20% of that time that a MT would make the difference in getting through.
 
Who knew
 
Look at two tires that are more AT biased

Toyo Open Country ATII

GoodYear DuraTrac.

I have run both and they both have very good road manners. The open country AT II handles unbelievably well for an LT tire ... The DuraTrack is a bit more Mud oriented
 
Sam, the Duratrac and Open Country R/T are very similar hybrid tires while the ATII, Terra Grappler, Wrangler AT kevlar are AT tires.
 
Yup ... I realize that.

Cooper has an interesting tire out there now.

At the moment I have two rigs running the GY DuraTrac and I am pleased with them.
 
New vs old.
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Let it be known that I vacuumed every bit of carpet that I could reach without removing the storage system. Now the PO stains are emphasized. Uggghh.
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I also finally got my replacement seat gears completely finished on the DS. I had done this repair last month but one cracked as soon as I used it. Had to make another Gamiviti order for extras. I put the gear in hot water for awhile to soften this time AND heated the shaft. A 13mm deep well socket in the vise pressed it on nicely and naturally stopped the pressing when it reached the shaft knurls. This time I rotated the shaft 1/2-turn for every 1/2-turn of the vise handle to ensure the gear went on straight. Just follow Gamiviti's instructions and you'll do fine. The only thing he fails to mention is to raise the forward section of the seat before disconnecting power and removing the seat. You'll never be able to access the front valence panel screws if you don't.

When reinstalling the gear rods, you need to make sure that both of them are lined up equally so the seat moves straight back and forth. You'll want to measure from a fixed point on the track bracket to the gear housing. Unbolt one side to adjust and equalize if you're off at all......
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...Don't rely on butting the track bracket all the way down to the shaft stop because the stops might not be in the same places on both shafts. Mine were off by almost 1/4". Screwdriver tip points to where the other on was tacked on. The seat would never run if I used that as the reference point.
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Let it be known that I vacuumed every bit of carpet that I could reach without removing the storage system. Now the PO stains are emphasized. Uggghh.
View attachment 1145172

I also finally got my replacement seat gears completely finished on the DS. I had done this repair last month but one cracked as soon as I used it. Had to make another Gamiviti order for extras. I put the gear in hot water for awhile to soften this time AND heated the shaft. A 13mm deep well socket in the vise pressed it on nicely and naturally stopped the pressing when it reached the shaft knurls. This time I rotated the shaft 1/2-turn for every 1/2-turn of the vise handle to ensure the gear went on straight. Just follow Gamiviti's instructions and you'll do fine. The only thing he fails to mention is to raise the forward section of the seat before disconnecting power and removing the seat. You'll never be able to access the front valence panel screws if you don't.

When reinstalling the gear rods, you need to make sure that both of them are lined up equally so the seat moves straight back and forth. You'll want to measure from a fixed point on the track bracket to the gear housing. Unbolt one side to adjust and equalize if you're off at all......
View attachment 1145177


...Don't rely on butting the track bracket all the way down to the shaft stop because the stops might not be in the same places on both shafts. Mine were off by almost 1/4". Screwdriver tip points to where the other on was tacked on. The seat would never run if I used that as the reference point.
View attachment 1145178

Not from this previous owner!!!
 
Stains- Folex from Home Depot if you want them cleaned up, worked miracles for me with kids in the car spilling all kinds or stuff.

Now John, time to do your heater core cleaning, I know a guy.....
 
JV, those Hankooks look bald :)
 
John, I know you won't get this anal about the carpets, but if you really want to make them like new again here's what I do:

1. Vacuum
2. Spray a section at a time with Simple Green and water (50/50 mix). Work it in with your fingers to loosen crud and begin lifting stains.
3. Fill a small pail/bucket with HOT water and squirt in some Dawn dish detergent.
4. Dip a stiff brush in the hot soapy water and scrub the crap out of the carpet. Use lots of water. Get it good and wet and sudsy.
5. Vacuum each section really well with a wet/dry vac.
6. Towel dry
7. Leave the truck in the sun for a couple of days with the windows down.

Tips: Keep the water good and hot even if you have to re-fill it multiple times as it cools.
Use a good wet/dry shop vac...not a little hand-held deal.
I like the lemon scented Simple Green. It is actually yellow and not green but works just as good and smells better.


Carpets will look and smell new.
 
Attempting to fix my windshield leak using the same link's info that @Izzyandsue used. If it fails, then I'll stop messing around...I've got a new gasket already in reserve and I'll look forward to seeing clearly out of new glass.

HOW TO: Fix your leaky windshield

My glass has a 12/05 date on it, so we know it's been replaced. Whoever did it DID use urethane between the gasket and glass like they should. I'm guessing that it got old and has been flexed quite a bit since I bought the truck, inviting a leak at PS.

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BTW...new tires getting installed 11/30/15.


...via IH8MUD app
 
Dont forget to do between glass and rubber, then rubber and metal.

New tires is going to mess me up, I can always find your truck when I look for the bald tires, now I have to reset my system...
 

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