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Joel's multipurpose 40 on 41s

Discussion in 'HardCore Corner' started by frijolee, Dec 10, 2015.

  1. frijolee

    frijolee

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    I cut all my plies ahead of time and have them prepped so I know exactly what I’m reaching for when. Rough cutting is fine as you can trim edges and stragglers as you go. One nice thing about epoxy is the extended cure times.

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    Turned out nice. 3-4 layers at the crack, 2 elsewhere.

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    I was getting ready to go after the topside and prepped the surface for glass over the front third. If you’re hardcore it’s better to take off all the gel coat, but I was trying to keep this simple and took the gel down until it was just starting to show glass through.

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    I was also still thinking about all those broken bolts from the side panels and the like. I was not looking forward to drilling all those… what a nightmare. It was weird to me that the majority would break loose, start to turn, and then after a turn you felt it seize up and snap. As such, I decided the best thing to do was commit and take the roof trim off completely. Had Randy cut the 50 or so rivets. I also ordered a rivet gun and bucking bar kit so theoretically I can put some of this stuff back.

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    Pulling the trim is nice in that it’ll let me seal the drip rail properly and make several other repairs easier as well, this inner surface is begging for some POR 15. Most of the bolts we were broke had rust nuggets formed at the tip which I’m assuming is what we feel jamming. No way that was going to pull through so think we did the right thing. We got ~15 of the broken guys out from the top should minimize repairs, but there’s still some work ahead.

    Unfortunately, Randy did manage to carve into the lip quite a bit pulling rivets (once again, YAY for extra folks pushing me to keep moving. BOO for stuff getting jacked up when others aren’t as meticulous as I am). Brass tacks: I called an audible and we did a bonus round of fiberglass and glassed the entire perimeter with a couple layers of 10” strips.

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    A couple more tips on fiberglass. It doesn’t like sharp bends. For instance, you pretty much can’t wrap a sharp edge. The glass will just bulge around to find a gentler radius curve leaving with air gaps or “bridging” to use the industry term. If you have access to vacuum bagging a great deal of this is an non-issue (but then again if you’re vacuum bagging you probably don’t need my advice).

    I worked on my edges for probably an hour at the end of this effort, just working the radiused 45 degree convex area where it transitioned to the flange. I clipped all the stray strands (scissors you can disassembly to clean--IE Cutco--are a big help). The overall edges get final cut with a razor blade when the resin is firm but not fully hard.

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    The above is also why composite mold edges wear down over time since part after part typically gets razor cut to the same edge shaving it down over time.

    With that done, I finally flipped back to the topside. Since there were now grooves to fill at the rivets, I had Randy sand the whole roof, fill the divots (bondo), and then we put two layers of glass over everything up top.

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    Here I ran the seams fore aft and staggered the overlaps to minimize thickness (and eventually, the sanding and fairing required).

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    I was actually surprised how well the corners laid down, I was sure we were going to have to angle cut the plies to make the convex corners work out.

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    By the time this back together, I should have about the strongest FJ40 roof out there. Not sure it’d survive a roll, but I’ve done what I could (and then some). To anyone freezing back East, I’m sorry, but damn was I thankful for sunny Socal. The nice weather made this all much easier to tackle.
     
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  2. A10Driver

    A10Driver SILVER Star

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    Thanks for the solid write up, I am going to be joining two tops for my 4 door and will definitely be looking through this again
     
  3. frijolee

    frijolee

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    Very welcome. It's not bad. Especially if you use epoxy and have extra working time.

    Next step after the glass was to ditch my projects and go wheeling a bit while since SoCal's weather has been so perfect. I figured if the rest of the world is freezing, it would be disrespectful if I didn't get out and enjoy it a bit.

    Quick jaunt with the "SoCal Trail Buds" had one dude with a decent camera and ended up with some of the best pictures I've ever had of my original "multipurpose" rig. The one in the trees made the cover page of the Trail Buds facebook page!

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    There's a heavy Toyota contingency in the Trail Buds, but my little XJ represented pretty well. Working a hard line option that no one else took... The rock vs. rocker potential was high.

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    Hope you're having a brilliant New Year and if it's cold where you're at, I hope the snow wheeling is rad. The trail wheeling actually raises a bit of an odd question. Who the heck will I wheel with when the FJ40 is done? On the one hand, it should walk some pretty serious stuff. On the other hand, I don't need to hang with rock bouncers and the crazy hardcore guys who don't care if they flop down the side of the mountain.

    -Joel
     
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  4. SuperBuickGuy

    SuperBuickGuy

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    fiberglass... yeah, I know that stuff. I'm in the midst of putting a hood scoop, custom image corvette flares, and a 73 tail on my Corvette

    about easier - I was just talking about that very thing today, trails that were challenging are boring now so I need to find better challenges. It's a fun problem to have, though.
     
  5. frijolee

    frijolee

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    Sounds like a cool project. Got a build thread somewhere?

    I'm actually hoping that the biggest difference between my XJ a the FJ40 will be power. Throwing donuts in the dirt, rooster tails off all four tires. The hooning around kinda stuff that side by side are so good at. That's the biggest motivation for my FJ build. (Well that and making something cool). I just gotta figure out how to do so and not flop/destroy it.
     
  6. SuperBuickGuy

    SuperBuickGuy

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  7. frijolee

    frijolee

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    In other news the engine is back in the rig. It’ll have to come back apart at least one more time so I didn’t bother with flex-plate or converter. I do need to be sure I can install the converter access cover after the fact, so at least I can try that now.

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    The front cross bar is now about a 1/16” too short so (weld deformation from all the tower work) so I may do something about that eventually. It still installs OK you just need a bar clamp to do so.

    Good news… The high mount holley setup looks like it’ll be fine.

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    The bad news: Holley just came out with a mid mount setup that looks like would have been so much easier! NEW PRODUCT: Holley Introduces Revolutionary Mid-Mount LS Accessory Drive – No Brackets!

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    Anyways, getting the engine back in is mostly about letting me work on my next big trouble area: Pedals and booster vs. steering vs. headers vs. remote oil cooler. It’s gonnna be tight (or maybe not, more on that in a second).

    Order of events matter since some things have more and less flexibility on where they need to go. I’m designing with the following prioritization:

    1) Brake pedal and booster. Pretty much non-negotiable where it goes, at least once I pick a pedal.
    2) Steering, again only so many options, planning to run down the upper control link
    3) Throttle & Dead pedal (kinda flow off the brake)
    4) Headers
    5) Remote Oil Cooler

    I have a spare master booster setup lying around from a Subaru Impreza of some sort (junkyard find). I’d been debating throwing it on the RX7, following a few good reviews but it’s lower priority than some other things. It at least lets me ball park the space needed for a booster.

    Pedals are an issue. I have the stock FJ40 pedal box but it’s an all in one and way too tall. Before I cut the thing to smithereens I decided to check the aftermarket. Got really excited about a simple wildwood setup.

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    But it turns out the 7:1 pedal ratio is really intended for manual brakes and given the big tires I have my heart set on a power brake booster. If I wanted to trade pedal stroke for power, I’d do that with different master cylinders. By the way both my front and rear calipers run huge pistons. The fronts are factory D60 calipers from a late 70s Ford 350 van. The rears are 73-87 Chevy 3/4 Ton 4x4 front calipers and rotors. All in all it looks like I’ll need a 1.25” master so I have some parts bin diving to do. A power brake setup wants more like a 4:1 pedal ratio to match. After doing a bunch of digging on ebay I eventually landed on s2000 pedals. They’re a 3.75:1 ratio, not sure on exact height but look compact, and most importantly, they’re all on individual brackets so I can position easier. It looked close enough and for $50 shipped I’m gonna given them a go.

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    Steering I may land a get out of jail free card on. It looks like I have enough space to install the steering control valve (orbital valve, albeit Billavista claims that term is wrong)… under the dash. I’ll need a shield since it’s high pressure lines but it looks much easier than getting past booster and/or putting this in the vicinity of headers.

    So with the two big pieces roughed out in my head, I decided to skip ahead and take a look at headers.

    If you’ve followed this thread from the beginning may remember how stoked I was on a Liquid Iron Industries headers setup built for Erik Miller’s Ultra 4 car.

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    I borrowed a set of Ice Blocks (AKA header legos) from Anthony and went to town. It’s a 1 3/4 set and I’m planning on 1 7/8 so I had to get creative to make it work. Compounding things is that I ended up with a 2” header flange from Anthony so these suckers really want to fall out. Whatever, they’re still cool. You just get to be a little creative in supporting things.

    First pass, attempting a version of the Liquid Iron setup.


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    Sitting back and looking at, I’m just concerned it’s way too much heat up high, and I’m not sure I’m able to get the 36” primaries I’d need out of these for a torque monster motor. Soooo… If I set aside my dreams of long tubes and instead try to keep things simple, I end up with a much cleaners setup. Trial #2.

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    Last pass (thus far) was just changing the order of the tubes. I figure with an 18726543 firing order I should at least put cylinders 2 and 6 on opposite sides of the collector (same for 1-3 on the driver side). That leaves me here:

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    Best guess, but the time it’s done I’ll end up somewhere around 22-24 inches primaries. Your thoughts and commentary appreciated.
     
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  8. SuperBuickGuy

    SuperBuickGuy

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    I like that mid-mount but I'd worry that there's not enough wrap on the power steering pump to keep it from slipping.

    Why not hydroboost? gets you some extra room and they'll lock up 38s on dry pavement without too much pedal (1 1/8 bore master cylinder and Ford dual front/GM single rear disk brakes). If you want super-clever, 6.0 denalis have hydroboost - then no mixing and matching....

    I do love those header legos, someday when I'm rich or infamous I'll buy a set.
     
  9. frijolee

    frijolee

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    Good comment on the belt wrap. One more reason to stick with what I have.

    No hyrdoboost for me given the full hydraulic steering. I want to be able to brake and steer at the same time and I've never seen good results from folks who tried to daisy chain them (have seen plenty of misbehaviour). If I had more room I could run a second PS pump but the extra bracketry and custom ish doesn't seem worth it, particularly when I have the high area on the passenger side taken up with an AC compressor.

    Header Legos are fun but not enough end all be all. They only get you close because each brick is a 1" increment so there are plenty of places you have to cheat lengths or use a different radius to give less angle or a given turn.
     
  10. A10Driver

    A10Driver SILVER Star

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    Are you doing hydraulic steering? High output pump should handle brakes and regular power steering no problem
     
  11. frijolee

    frijolee

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    A track bar/drag link setup requires the front axle to shift side to side as the bars swing in an arc... Double triangulated front suspension can't do that. So unless I want to start over on the front suspension, I'm committed to full hydro steering.

    I do agree power steering plus hydroboost is fine (OEMs do it all the time). Full hydro plus hydroboost? If it's been done successfully I don't know about, but I've read plenty of horror stories from folks who tried and failed.
     
  12. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    I like that header mockup kit!
     
  13. frijolee

    frijolee

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    Picking up a few random topics. Hoping that maybe posting some stuff will light a fire under my ass.

    Actually welded my first exhaust bits.

    Cone Engineering Merge and spike.

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    Picked up the calipers I was missing from a junkyard a while back. Iron so they're stupid heavy.

    Blasted.

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    POR 15 Caliper Paint

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    Bought a cool fairlead from Custom Splice. It's narrow for my cut down winch. Double thick was intended to have a bigger radius. Upon getting it in I decided double thick was a little excessive so I cut it down.

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    Billet aluminum is a miracle of packaging I say.

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    I threw some epoxy primer on the roof, just to keep the raw glass happy until I can deal with this properly.

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    Bought and swapped in slightly shorter pushrods. I needed in between a 7.350 and 7.375 and ended up erring on the long side.

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    Late, so that'll have to do for now.
    -Joel
     
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