JDM a/c drier relocation kit (1 Viewer)

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I have one of the JDM kits in a box, I'll check what's in there in terms of hardware...

EDIT: the drier bracket, rubber isolation biscuits, two bolts, two lock washers, four flat washers
 
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sorry to bump an old thread, but was a kit ever made?? just a little confused??? or is it just the JDM kit??
 
JDM kit is the only I know of, but a competent AC shop could replicate the drier relocation and the drier mounting bracket wouldn't be difficult to fab.

twas what I was thinking, Id just take it to a local shop
 
Coolstream has a solution. Two options if I recall correctly. You provide the lines and he does the work. Or he provides all. Check him out

Sent from my GS4 using IH8MUD
 
Coolstream has a solution. Two options if I recall correctly. You provide the lines and he does the work. Or he provides all. Check him out Sent from my GS4 using IH8MUD

Rex helped me out immensely with the correct drier, and he can weld the fittings to the existing lines......but you have to have (if memory serves) the correct fittings from the older systems.

Believe he's also taking a break, but don't let that dissuade contacting him, in the event I'm wrong on exactly what he's breaking from.

Regardless, a newer, taller drier will fit in the battery box, so there's no real reason for any fittings to be changed, just need to create a few line sections, shorten others, and have the existing fittings welded back on.

Hold on for pics....
 
The only reason a different drier was required was the JDM kit fitting orientation.....as I bought the "kit" that "bolts in"

Took to AC shop to evacuate system and they installed and charged for a song more, but did elude to the "kit" being unnecessary, unless "bolt in" is a requirement.

Personally, I like that it was all Toyota, but not worth the money for this aspect.

Buy a new drier, use same fittings, have AC shop bend and fab the shorter runs, then weld the fittings on, all for a lot less than I paid to keep it real.

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Again, the ONLY reason that I found need for the shorter, older drier was to make the "kit" work. There's plenty of space in the box or engine bay for the later version.

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maybe i should add I am a second year refrigerant tech hahahaha...... i should just not be lazy lol

I havent praticed refigeration in a few years after switching to Instrumentation though
 
ok, pulling up an old thread again. Sounds like if one was to purchase the short dryer from a camry 88471-20050 , make up a mount to fit by battery, and then fab up some lines, with some crimp connectors, this could happen.....

sources for the crimp connectors or pipe? thinking about going to look at an old camry and see what their lines look like.

Thanks,
 
No need for the shorter drier unless using the JDM "kit", since there's plenty of room for the 80 to fit in the battery box, if building a mount specifically for it.

Way I understood it, I could've achieved the same drier orientation with noting more than an OE 80 drier, mount for it, existing lines and a qualified AC shop with welding capabilities.
 
My neighbor, ex-NASCAR mechanic for Billy Jo something-or-other, just installed a short bus bumper on my 97 LC. I said, hey what's that thing hanging down on the DS? He said a.c. dryer. Hmm, looks like that's in harm's way. So he bent down and gave it a little push up, then a little more, until it was barely noticeable. Then he recut the bracket and voila. AC works fine, lines don't look stressed. The NASCAR cure. We'll see if it makes it through the summer...
 
Hey, another alternative is just twist it over...
I've seen some guys that have a 4x4 labs front bumper do it.
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Here's mine
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What are the factory part numbers need to move the drier up to the battery box. I know the ends to drier need to be switched for R134.
 
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I just posted pics up in my boost thread and another thread last week. The early fzj years had the dryer up at the battery box. The lines from the condenser to the dryer are perfect and that is what you need for a simple bolt on fix. The issue is the line from the dryer going to the firewall. The fitting on the right side (driver) side of the engine compartment is different, and the high pressure sensor is different.

What I did was to take the early fzj tube and cut it between dryer and the high pressure sensor -- in the first 8 inches or so. Then I cut the line from my 96' at the same spot. Then I brazed the two lines together. Worked great.

So, head to your junkyard and get the lines from the condenser to dryer, the dryer bracket and the lines from the dryer back to that first junction.

people have talked about bending the dryer line, but if you look at it you will understand how tight a bend it has would be very difficult to duplicate.

FYI, lines are 8mm metric lines. I could not find fittings, and ended up making some from some soft aluminum lines that I got from an airplane supply place.

Good luck.
 
I have heard from A/C professionals that the dryer is designed to be most effective when in a vertical position. For Az heat I would be more interested in moving it up to the early model location by the battery. John
 
I have heard from A/C professionals that the dryer is designed to be most effective when in a vertical position. For Az heat I would be more interested in moving it up to the early model location by the battery. John

I'm no professional but a diagonal drier works 100% more effective than a punctured vertical unit.
 

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