Relocating the AC dryer

[AZ4ME]

I'm working on building a 4x4labs front bumper and I knew I was going to have to do something with the AC dryer. With the super high clearance of the bumper, a simple tuck was not going to work and I didn't want to push it horizontal in the area of the turn signal like I had seen others do. Dryers are meant to be vertical to work as designed and we need the AC to be working a peak performance here in PHX.

Anyway, after reading mud posts about using the AC lines and dryer bracket from a 91 to early 93 to relocate it to in front of the battery, I decided to go that route. Since the early R12 fittings are not compatible with the later R134a fittings, the fittings from the R134a lines needed to be welded or brazed onto the R12 lines. I had my AC evac'd, took my dryer lines off my 95 and took both sets down to Arizona Tubes and Hoses. The condenser fitting had to be changed as well as the fitting at the AC line junction about half way down the driver's side fender so you could fit them all together again. The dryer ends are fine since you use the earlier model dryer.

Instead of just replacing the fitting end on the R12 hard line that runs down the fender like others had, I decided to use more of the original R134a line and spliced in a small portion of the R12 line after the trinary switch (or forward towards the battery) so I could keep the R134a trinary switch instead of having to use the R12 switch. It also kept the sight glass in the R134a tube along the fender.

The fit afterwards was spot on. No issues with line placement. My battery is also the larger 27F and it all still fits good. Had it recharged. They pulled a vacuum and tested pressure for over an hour with no leaks. AC runs cold. They measured it at around 40 degrees.

Overall it cost me about $235 or so. Thought I would let you guys know in case you are local and wanted to get it done also. Arizona Tubes and Hoses was fantastic. Not only was the price very reasonable, they turned around the lines modifications the same day. Let me know if you have any question.

93 AC hard lines and dryer bracket - $65
Hard line modifications - $50
Dryer - $20
AC evac and recharge - $100

Pictures below. Only picture I forgot to get was both lines before I had them modified. So the line picture is after the modification.

 

[murf]

Nice write up on a job well done

 

[Saddletramp]

Very clean

 

[maddss]

Do you have the part numbers

 

[inkpot]

Start doing it up as a kit. Lots of interest on the 80s board.

 

[LongDuck]

Very nice work on this, and a good solution to the placement. For reference, I decided to leave it in place with a Slee Shortbus, which exposes it like this;

It's not all that obtrusive and 2 years now no issues with bonking it on anything. Still, I like the way you tucked it up and fully protected it - great job,

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Anyone here ever hit the dryer in the stock position?

 

[Rudster]

Anyone here ever hit the dryer in the stock position?

Nope

 

[medtro]

My 80 came with a 1.75" shorter dryer (compare to stock) when I bought it. The part numbers for the dryer are:

4 Seasons: 33592
Napa: 208727

 

[murf]

Anyone here ever hit the dryer in the stock position?

Never seen nor heard of it happening

 

[inkpot]

Very nice work on this, and a good solution to the placement. For reference, I decided to leave it in place with a Slee Shortbus, which exposes it like this;

If you loosen the clamp, you can move it up an inch or two for a little extra clearance. John

It's not all that obtrusive and 2 years now no issues with bonking it on anything. Still, I like the way you tucked it up and fully protected it - great job,

 

[RockJock82]

Never seen nor heard of it happening

That's because the curbs in the mall won't hit it ... Moving the dryer into the battery box just gives it that clearer touch. We did it on the last build (brazing the ac lines together).

 

[AZ4ME]

Do you have the part numbers

The only part number would be for the Denso dryer - NP 478-0107. The lines I sourced from a early 93 cruiser.

The AC has been blowing cold the last couple of months. No issues.

Some updated pics after I finally had enough free time to finish up the 4x4labs front bumper.

 

[murf]

with that bumper, the relocating makes all the difference. the dryer really gets exposed and looks almost out of place. Nice work Brian ~

 

[socallove]

This is awesome, I need to get this done very soon.

 

[FnLexus]

I busted mine on the Rubicon last OCT.

 

[jayntguru]

Question for anyone that has done this.

I'm having trouble figuring out how much of the R12 lines I need. (Shipping is cost prohibitive to buy the whole set of lines from a donor vehicle.) It looks like I only need about 8" or so of the line with the sensor/switch, and I can't tell on the other one.

Can anyone clarify?

Thank you!

 

[Luishernandez56]

I'm working on building a 4x4labs front bumper and I knew I was going to have to do something with the AC dryer. With the super high clearance of the bumper, a simple tuck was not going to work and I didn't want to push it horizontal in the area of the turn signal like I had seen others do. Dryers are meant to be vertical to work as designed and we need the AC to be working a peak performance here in PHX.

Anyway, after reading mud posts about using the AC lines and dryer bracket from a 91 to early 93 to relocate it to in front of the battery, I decided to go that route. Since the early R12 fittings are not compatible with the later R134a fittings, the fittings from the R134a lines needed to be welded or brazed onto the R12 lines. I had my AC evac'd, took my dryer lines off my 95 and took both sets down to Arizona Tubes and Hoses. The condenser fitting had to be changed as well as the fitting at the AC line junction about half way down the driver's side fender so you could fit them all together again. The dryer ends are fine since you use the earlier model dryer.

Instead of just replacing the fitting end on the R12 hard line that runs down the fender like others had, I decided to use more of the original R134a line and spliced in a small portion of the R12 line after the trinary switch (or forward towards the battery) so I could keep the R134a trinary switch instead of having to use the R12 switch. It also kept the sight glass in the R134a tube along the fender.

The fit afterwards was spot on. No issues with line placement. My battery is also the larger 27F and it all still fits good. Had it recharged. They pulled a vacuum and tested pressure for over an hour with no leaks. AC runs cold. They measured it at around 40 degrees.

Overall it cost me about $235 or so. Thought I would let you guys know in case you are local and wanted to get it done also. Arizona Tubes and Hoses was fantastic. Not only was the price very reasonable, they turned around the lines modifications the same day. Let me know if you have any question.

93 AC hard lines and dryer bracket - $65
Hard line modifications - $50
Dryer - $20
AC evac and recharge - $100

Pictures below. Only picture I forgot to get was both lines before I had them modified. So the line picture is after the modification.

Do I have to do that if I have a 93 land cruiser or will that not be necessary?

 

[1972FJ55]

Question for anyone that has done this.

I'm having trouble figuring out how much of the R12 lines I need. (Shipping is cost prohibitive to buy the whole set of lines from a donor vehicle.) It looks like I only need about 8" or so of the line with the sensor/switch, and I can't tell on the other one.

Can anyone clarify?

Thank you!

You need the line from the junction on the drivers side inner fender to the drier and the line (which is actually 2 pieces) from the drier to the condenser.

 

[ae86coupe]

Nope

Well I did.. Rubicon trail little sluice