JDM a/c drier relocation kit

[inkpot]

I'm no professional but a diagonal drier works 100% more effective than a punctured vertical unit.

Conversely, an intact vertical one works better than anything else. Survey of local club found zero damage of units in stock location.

My ARB bumper has a bunch of dings/rock rash, but my a/c dryer guard plate does no. Go figure, I would still like to raise it up.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

The short drier may be all you need then.

 

[InfernoLX450]

Does anyone know if these kits are still available? If so where do you get them?

 

[Delancy]

Does anyone know if these kits are still available? If so where do you get them?

I have one that was in my LX for 12k mile before I rolled it.

If interested, message.

 

[Satchmo79]

I have one that was in my LX for 12k mile before I rolled it.

If interested, message.

Is this kit still in good shape?

 

[Satchmo79]

That line has a single bolt attaching it to the drier. The other end goes to the condenser. If this is the line you need, I have this used one for $10 plus the ride.
View attachment 696232

Does anyone know the part number for this ac line?

 

[Delancy]

Is this kit still in good shape?

It was, when sold a while back.

 

[shocktower]

Ok so I did some google foo, and you can buy lines, and bend them, to fit I hate the location in my 97. I am on a mission, the bracket, should be easy, just find a wrecked 90-93

 

[iptman]

If you run the ARB bull bar Slee sells a skid plate that protects the dryer.

Slee - Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser Skidplates

Works great.

 

[Delancy]

Ok so I did some google foo, and you can buy lines, and bend them, to fit I hate the location in my 97. I am on a mission, the bracket, should be easy, just find a wrecked 90-93

Any local AC shop can relocate the drier to the battery box, as far as running the lines is concerned, and the bracket and new drier from earlier is easy enough to source.

Since a local shop should be utilized to evacuate and refill the system, anyway, only spending a few bucks on used parts and lines.

 

[landtank]

Just did a relocation of the dryer to the battery location using r12 parts and a couple of compression fitting bought from McMaster Carr.

Might do mine this weekend

 

[shocktower]

Any local AC shop can relocate the drier to the battery box, as far as running the lines is concerned, and the bracket and new drier from earlier is easy enough to source.

Since a local shop should be utilized to evacuate and refill the system, anyway, only spending a few bucks on used parts and lines.

But the hoses are different, on the 90-93 R12 VS 94-97 R134

 

[Delancy]

But the hoses are different, on the 90-93 R12 VS 94-97 R134

They'd fab new lines with whatever fittings were necessary to utilize whatever mounting bracket and/or drier required to move.

During admonishment, local that swapped mine said he could achieve the same placement/results for a fraction, lacking only the 'cool factor, since ADM from the parts bin....'

 

[cruisercesar]

Just did a relocation of the dryer to the battery location using r12 parts and a couple of compression fitting bought from McMaster Carr.

Might do mine this weekend

Any chance to see a picture of this retrofit with info on the compression fittings that was used to connect A/C lines?

 

[landtank]

It's on my to do list. I'm planning on a Slee short bus bumper and relocating the dryer is a must. It's really quite simple. First find the R12 dryer, dryer bracket and the 2 lines that attached to it. If you are buying new you will also need the pressure switch.

step 1: install 2 M6 nutserts in the holes in the cowl next to the radiator
step 2: mount dryer and bracket
step 3: drill a hole as a passageway for the new routing of the hard line from the condensor to the dryer's new location.
step 4: graft the R12 lines onto the existing R134 lines using 2 M8 high pressure compression unions.
step 5: reinstall battery
step 6: evacuate and fill system

 

[cruisercesar]

It's on my to do list. I'm planning on a Slee short bus bumper and relocating the dryer is a must. It's really quite simple. First find the R12 dryer, dryer bracket and the 2 lines that attached to it. If you are buying new you will also need the pressure switch.

step 1: install 2 M6 nutserts in the holes in the cowl next to the radiator
step 2: mount dryer and bracket
step 3: drill a hole as a passageway for the new routing of the hard line from the condensor to the dryer's new location.
step 4: graft the R12 lines onto the existing R134 lines using 2 M8 high pressure compression unions.
step 5: reinstall battery
step 6: evacuate and fill system

Thanks.

That is how I will be relocating the dryer. Already have the R12 parts. Only need to get the M8 high pressure compression unions and install them in the right location on the line to complete this project.

 

[landtank]

this is the union I used in a previous install.

McMaster-Carr

 

[cruisercesar]

this is the union I used in a previous install.

McMaster-Carr

Excellent, thanks for posting the link.

For those that completed the retrofit...Is it OK to use the R12 pressure switch when doing this retrofit?

For reference, as per 96 FSM, the R134a pressure switch normal operating parameters are as follows:
Low Pressure 28 psi, High Pressure Side 455 psi

Do not know the normal operating parameters of the R12 pressure switch.

 

[landtank]

when I did this I had to use the R12 pressure switch. The connector on the two switches are the same but the threaded end is different.

No complaints from the owner

 

[CarlSeattle]

I'm too cheap to spend all the time/$$ to relocate the drier so I just moved it over a few inches to protect it. Here's the write-up on how:

When I bought my 94 FJZ80, it had a custom bumper and broken drier. I bought a new drier-to-condenser line from the dealer (I actually ended up buying a second after kinking the first one) and bent it to work.

The first hose I kinked pretty bad. For the second, I oiled and slid heavy-duty speaker hose in past the pinch points and then just bent the **** out of them with pliers. The speaker wire really seemed to help.

Had to bend the original drier bracket to make it fit. Drilled and tapped two new bolt holes.

So far so good! I've taken this beast through some crazy, up-to-the-windshield brush and scraped the **** out of the underside but no marks on the drier yet and she still blows cold! Total cost=$215
$30 new shorty drier (not sure losing 3/4" was worth it)
$60 2 new AC lines
$125 Vac and recharge the system (don't just buy the kit from a parts store - needs to be evac-ed first)