JDM a/c drier relocation kit (1 Viewer)

[CycloSteve]

Related question...does anyone have a recommendation of a good AC shop in the SF Bay Area to do the "Beta" install? Rex will be shipping the above to me shortly, and I am looking to get this done after the 6th of June when I get back from Tahoe. All recommendations for shops within 50 miles of 95030 appreciated.



Steve

 

[kbahus]

The install should be cake if you have basic hand tools. Just need to find a shop to recharge the a/c; I would assume any competent shop can do it as long as they have the proper equipment.

 

[CycloSteve]

It's not the mechanical-side of things, rather the whole testing, adding of the right amount of PEG, R134A, etc., etc. I would rather leave the A/C stuff to the pros lest I suffer the wrath of the if I screw it up.



Steve

 

[Aids10]

Anyone selling a JDM kit?

 

[CycloSteve]

IIRC the original JDM kits are now Unobtanium. This thread has morphed into the alternative solution using OEM parts with a few modifications...which may come to fruition in June.



Steve

 

[1972FJ55]

Update

Here's where this is at: I've got the two available R12 line sets coming from Toyota (thanks CDAN!). Since there are only two available and roughly 60 folks wanting to do this, I have a tubing bender ordered that is specifically for 8mm tubing, and I have the two available ends (one drier and one condenser) also ordered along with several sticks of 8mm tubing. My plan is to try bending the shapes and then brazing on the appropriate ends. I should have the parts on Monday or Tuesday and the bender later in the week, so I'll post updates as things proceed.

Have a great weekend!

 

[VanGo]

Here's where this is at: I've got the two available R12 line sets coming from Toyota (thanks CDAN!). Since there are only two available and roughly 60 folks wanting to do this, I have a tubing bender ordered that is specifically for 8mm tubing, and I have the two available ends (one drier and one condenser) also ordered along with several sticks of 8mm tubing. My plan is to try bending the shapes and then brazing on the appropriate ends. I should have the parts on Monday or Tuesday and the bender later in the week, so I'll post updates as things proceed.

Have a great weekend!

Rex,

This is fantastic news!

 

[ardentyota]

Started on my new bumper this week... Anxiously awaiting the announcement of success!!!!

 

[Pinetop Cruiser]

Rex,
I've got a set of the old lines. Is putting new ends on it something any shop can do? How much would you charge to do it? Or am I on the wrong track? Just wanting my A/C back after breaking lines at drier in current location. Thanks.

 

[kbahus]

Any updates?

 

[girraffe]

This is a Long three for something soooo simple. Find an early 80 that is being parted or junked. Grab the lines and dryer from the condenser to the drivers fender connection. Take to reputable auto a/c shop (maxair did mine) and have them cut and install the later model connections on the earlier line and install. Its super easy. I'll post pics of mine soon.

 

[CycloSteve]

Well yes, that is the simple way to graft the old with the new. That is what Rex did with my 91 lines.

What Rex is doing is taking my set of "converted lines" and working with all new components to literally bend a new solution. Unfortunately wrecked 91-92 Cruisers aren't all that common, and only a handful of new lines actually exist in the US according to CDan. So, if you can find an old set and a shop which can do the work, great, otherwise there should be a completely new set of lines coming from Rex sometime in the near future. I leave it to Rex to update the timeline and progress, as I am overseas at the moment.



Steve

 

[dafun1]

If I buy the smaller R134a dryer and the new bracket for inside the engine bay, can a local shop like Rex's connect the dots with my existing lines and some extra 8mm tubing? Isn't this just about some custom bending of metal tubing and brazing of lines? I would love to have a bolt on product and then just refill/recharge the AC, but I'm actually having my front frame boxed with a winch plate and a stinger fabricated starting next week, and I want that low hanging ac dryer fruit moved soon...

 

[kbahus]

I have an update for everyone. I am not sure if this is feasible for everyone but it worked for me. I ended up sending Rex both sets of 95+ and 91-93 lines and he was able to weld the new style ends to the old style lines. I purchased a new Denso dryer, and got the bracket from the donor truck my lines came with. Everything fit up nicely and the truck is at the shop right now getting the system charged. I did have to grind a notch in the battery tray for the line to pass through and find some bolts/nuts for the bracket as Toyota did not use captured nuts, however the holes are there. Here are a couple pics of the lines before install:

I will attempt to get some final install pics up tomorrow when I get the truck back. Also, thanks Rex!

 

[Dino]

Update??

 

[kbahus]

The lines that Rex made for me work great and I was able to enjoy nice cold a/c for the remainder of the summer, even used it today on the ride home. So to make this "easy" just buy a set of lines and the bracket from someone parting out a 91-93 and then take the lines off your personal truck and send them all to Rex. Then purchase a new Denso dryer for the 91-93 and you will be good to go once you get the lines back.

 

[Coolstream]

Update

I finally had some time, and cooler weather, where I could test fit some different line options on my 80. Here are the problems we face:
-finding the fittings to be able to build the lines from scratch is cost prohibitive.
-getting the R12 lines new from Toyota is no longer possible.

So here are the two options I can offer:

1) Send me the lines for both an R12 and R134 system and I'll splice (braze) the R134 ends on the R12 lines, add a new Denso drier, o-rings and a new trinary switch to replace the R12 one with specs for R134. Cost for this option is $120. plus freight. You will either need to get a factory bracket or fabricate one to support the drier. This setup is what Kbahus and CycloSteve have for their rigs.

2) Send me your R134 lines, and I use those ends to build a new line from the drier to the condenser. This line is a 1-piece line, rather than a 2-piece like the factory R12 line is. I also build a new section from the switch port to the drier, again using the original R134 fittings. See pictures below and bear in mind I wasn't concerned about making the trial set of lines real pretty. With this setup, you can use the original trinary switch and a 1" shorter drier. You'll need a simple "L" bracket and hose clamp to support the drier. Cost for this option is $189 plus freight and includes the line fabrication, drier and o-rings. A larger than stock battery may not allow enough space for this set-up to fit.

I'm working on a set of instructions, although this is really a +1/2 job. Make sure that the A/C system is empty. Cap off any open ends that you're not working on. You will need to remove the battery, battery box and grille to be able to maneuver the lines into position. Start with the line from condenser to drier. Gently work it from the top, through the oval shaped hole in the core support. Once it's in position, re-install the bolt on the condenser fitting. Now the battery box can go back into position but don't bolt it down yet. Then install the line from drier to fender connection. leave the fender connection loose, so the line can be positioned correctly. Remember that these are small diameter aluminum lines, they bend easily, so take your time. With both lines in place you can install the drier. Now you can tighten the fittings, again, these are aluminum, so don't overtighten. I installed the switch prior to installing the lines, be sure to snap the wire harness back onto it. With everything in place, snap the fender line back into the brackets (these are plastic and easy to break). Bolt down the battery box, re-install the battery and grille, then it's vacuum the system and re-charge.

There are bound to be questions, so you can either PM, email or call me (Rex) @ 1-888-438-9534

 

[CycloSteve]

Getting ready to install my lines, and have a few questions. I will be doing the mechanical work of replacing the lines myself, but plan on having a shop do the evacuation and recharge of R134a and PAG oil. I am adding a new Mr. T dryer (the proper shorter one which fits the bracket in front of the battery), and replacing the lines with the 91-92 to R134 hybrid which Rex soldered.

• How much PAG should they put into the system with the new dryer? Is that something that I need to let them know?
  
• What things should I be asking the shop in advance?
  
• Typical cost to have an evac/recharge/leak test?
  
• Do I need to lube the new o-rings with PAG oil (read this in Alia's post)? If not PAG, is there a preferred oil for the o-rings?

Thanks for any tips and info.



Steve

 

[Akella]

I recently went to advanced auto for some R134a and their system was showing for full charge you need 30oz of R134a and 7oz of PAG oil. I never seen these numbers before, so i dont know if they are right or not.

 

[Coolstream]

Responses in blue.

• How much PAG should they put into the system with the new dryer? Is that something that I need to let them know? I'd add 1 or 2 oz to the drier.
  
• What things should I be asking the shop in advance? How long do they pull vacuum on it? Are they using a J2788 compliant R/R/R machine? Is a leak test included and if so, do they use an electronic detector-what manufacturer?

• Typical cost to have an evac/recharge/leak test? We charge $69 + refrigerant.
  
• Do I need to lube the new o-rings with PAG oil (read this in Alia's post)? If not PAG, is there a preferred oil for the o-rings? Don't use PAG, it makes the o-rings sticky not slippery. Use mineral oil or silicone o-ring lube.

Thanks for any tips and info.



Steve