installing Engine (1 Viewer)

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Nov 27, 2015
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WEAVERVILLE NC
Alright guys. I finished my 2F engine rebuild and I had to remvoe #2 piston from old engine in order to free up engine so I could spin it and get the bellhousing off.

I just spent 6 hours trying to install this damn thing and got frustrated and pulled it back out. the biggest issue is this!

1. the engine hoist only goes so far in due to bumper
2. I cannot align up the damn tranny to insert into pilot bearing

So my questions are this:

1. Do I have t remove bumper in order to install engine
2. What tricks are there to guide tranny into pilot bearing
3. Would it be better to remove tranny and attach to engine?
4. I have an overdrive on mine as well so, how hard to remove (if needed)
5. I will try it tomorrow - if I cannot install I am leaning towards selling entire thing. I am so over this.

Thanks
 
Alright guys. I finished my 2F engine rebuild and I had to remvoe #2 piston from old engine in order to free up engine so I could spin it and get the bellhousing off.

I just spent 6 hours trying to install this damn thing and got frustrated and pulled it back out. the biggest issue is this!

1. the engine hoist only goes so far in due to bumper
2. I cannot align up the damn tranny to insert into pilot bearing

So my questions are this:

1. Do I have t remove bumper in order to install engine
2. What tricks are there to guide tranny into pilot bearing
3. Would it be better to remove tranny and attach to engine?
4. I have an overdrive on mine as well so, how hard to remove (if needed)
5. I will try it tomorrow - if I cannot install I am leaning towards selling entire thing. I am so over this.

Thanks


Ive found its easier for me to install the engine/tranny/transfer in 1 piece.

Removing the bumper and one or both of the front wheels will give some clearance for the engine hoist.

Another trick is to remove the rear engine mounts from the bellhousing to give you more room.

An extra set of hands and a good plan go a long ways. Dont get under anything as it could fall at any time.
 
I will agree with Jdc1 on all of his recomendations especially with installing the engine/trans/xfer case all at once that made my install way easier. The weight of the trans and xfer case will also help with the angle that you need to get the engine aligned properly. I would also recommend having a floor jack underneath the xfer case to lift into place for alignment of your rear engine mounts.
 
I will agree with Jdc1 on all of his recomendations especially with installing the engine/trans/xfer case all at once that made my install way easier. The weight of the trans and xfer case will also help with the angle that you need to get the engine aligned properly. I would also recommend having a floor jack underneath the xfer case to lift into place for alignment of your rear engine mounts.

You can get the rear mounts loosely bolted into the frame and then using the floorjack bring the bellhousing up to meet the mounts and bolt in.
 
if you're still going to try engine first then tranny once in, use four long tranny bolts with the heads cut off and a screwdriver slot cut in the outboard end, screwed into the bellhousing as guides to slide the tranny on... once it begins to seated in the pilot bearing then screw them out one at a time and replace with the real deal to tighten it down - huge help in aligning things!
 
Make sure your pilot bearing/bushing is the correct size to fit on the input. If you didn't change it, did you check it and the input for marring?

It''s a snug enough fit that it probably won't just 'slip in'. The headless bolt guide idea is a good one. Gonna save that.
 
Installed engine, tranny, transfer all at once in my 45 about a year ago. I don't know this job could have been done with the bumper in place. The engine hoist just wasn't long enough to seat everything back far enough until we removed the bumper. And I'm sure it can be done with one person but was a beast to tackle with 2. So my recommendation is to get a buddy to help then have a 6er ready so you can stand around and admire your hard work after finishing.
 
Run some emory cloth around the input shaft end on the tranny. It's a real tight fit and any dirt, grime, coating etc will make it harder for it to slide into the pilot bearing .
 
if you're still going to try engine first then tranny once in, use four long tranny bolts with the heads cut off and a screwdriver slot cut in the outboard end, screwed into the bellhousing as guides to slide the tranny on... once it begins to seated in the pilot bearing then screw them out one at a time and replace with the real deal to tighten it down - huge help in aligning things!
This has worked well for me in the past, I keep a set of modified bolts in my special tools toolbox. On mine, I tapered the ends with the screwdriver slot.
 
I always test fit the pilot bearing to the input shaft of the trans BEFORE installing the pilot bearing in the crank.

Experience is a great teacher.

GL
 
DOes your cherry picker arm extend out? Mine is adjustable... maybe borrow a friends that's longer?

I was able to stab my motor in by myself, if I could do it, then anyone can...

IMG_9722.JPG
 
DOes your cherry picker arm extend out? Mine is adjustable... maybe borrow a friends that's longer?

I was able to stab my motor in by myself, if I could do it, then anyone can...

View attachment 1495498

Agreed - did mine solo and was the first time stabbing one in. Having the front bumper off was definitely helpful and I also removed the front wheels, putting the axle on jack stands. Effectively reducing the height needing to lift the motor.
 
I have a hoist leveler. Right nw I am about an 1 away from putting it together. I tried the cut off heads and use as guide but tranny has shifted, I removed bumper and it is much easier to manuver but that 1" is killing me.

I was thinking f just installing engine and remove drive shaft and slide back tranny to install engone then try to slide it on. Will this work?
 

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