I inherited a 1977 FJ40. It hasn't run in about 15 years I believe but has been garage kept for at least the past 20-30 years. Where would you start with restoration? I'm looking to keep the original 2F engine. I am new to landcruisers. The frame is in good condition and has just a little bit of surface rust.
Inherited 1977 FJ40. Where to start for restoration?
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Get is running, make sure it stops, change fluids and drive it!
I'll save you from yourself and take it off your hands for let's call it an even 2 grand. Ha nice truck
Pull the spark plugs and put a few cc's of Marvel's Mystery oil in each cylinder. I would put a big crescent wrench on the crank pulley nut and turn the motor over by hand 2 full rpms. If every thing goes well, change the oil/filter and use the starter to whirl it over until it shows oil pressure - might take several 30 second grinds. Then put in the plugs. Fully bleed the brake system to change out the old fluid. Same for the clutch. Drain the old gas (an electric fuel transfer pump is very handy for such tasks). Put a few gallons on new hi-test ethanol free in the tank. Pull at least a gallon of fuel threw the line right up to the carb fitting. New fuel/air filter. Drain the radiator/heater hoses - fill with water to flush. Drain and fill with new 50/50 mix. Clean the fuse box with the battery disconnected. Check the gear boxes for oil. If the brakes work you should be ready for a start and a a test drive once it has warmed up and you check for leaks.
Whatever you do, don’t start drinking with your buddies contemplating a starting point, or you may end up here!
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Run it! do a paint correction, wash the engine make it run and stop and smiles for miles.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
The bank.
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
Congratulations…Before you head down the “Restoration Highway” I’d think about the “Spa treatment” first. That looks like a very nice 77 Original 854 paint code LC. I’m going to go out on a limb here and suggest that once you confirm spark, air, fuel and it it starts and stop’s, you just clean/shine/polish it up head to toe. It looks very solid and original. There are several good threads here that can get you started. @wngrog thas some very good threads Ref: “preservation vice restoration” that can get you started. Good luck with this…
When you have time, post some picks of the front floorboards, rear sill/bumper area and the rear bed.
Do you have the hard top?
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Check the oil and coolant.
New battery and New fuel.
Check that you know how to drive.
Remove the air cleaner and paint the cover ffs.
Start engine.
Check that the clutch disengages when pushed.
Check the brakes and handbrake work.
Check your transfer and gearbox oil are good.
Get your grease gun and pump grease into every nipple you can find.
Time for a steady drive around the block to see what falls off.
Don't leave it parked on a hill just yet without the transmission in gear and the wheels turned in.
Nice truck.
New battery and New fuel.
Check that you know how to drive.
Remove the air cleaner and paint the cover ffs.
Start engine.
Check that the clutch disengages when pushed.
Check the brakes and handbrake work.
Check your transfer and gearbox oil are good.
Get your grease gun and pump grease into every nipple you can find.
Time for a steady drive around the block to see what falls off.
Don't leave it parked on a hill just yet without the transmission in gear and the wheels turned in.
Nice truck.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Body condition doesn't match the engine condition. Paint is too nice. The seam in the B pillar disappears at the bottom. Bubble at the bottom of the A pillar. Believe using magnetic you will find bondo. Would evaluate the tub and go from there. Thinking about restoring might be opening up a can of worms. Replacement tubs from China don't look too bad. Could be cheaper than repairing the current tub. For now would get it reliable and drive it and do your homework on which direction to take. That could be just work on maintaining what you currently have. You didn't go looking for this cruiser but inherited it. May not want to invest a bunch of money into it.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
I’m in the fix vs restore camp…. You can always leave the area of a finished project cleaner and in better shape than you found it. I’d personally would have a tough time staying motivated if I tore the whole thing down all at once, I like driving the darn thing too much, for me…
Step 1 - get her running (think all fluids, fuel and cooling systems, hoses/belts, and fire)
Step 2 - stopping (everything brake related to include soft lines and the e-brake)
Step 3 - steering (tie rods, alignment, lube in steering box, drag link & center arm)
Step 4 - drive, enjoy and assess what comes next. By this point you will have gained a lot of knowledge about the truck and will be in a better position to figure out the long-term plan.
Step 1 - get her running (think all fluids, fuel and cooling systems, hoses/belts, and fire)
Step 2 - stopping (everything brake related to include soft lines and the e-brake)
Step 3 - steering (tie rods, alignment, lube in steering box, drag link & center arm)
Step 4 - drive, enjoy and assess what comes next. By this point you will have gained a lot of knowledge about the truck and will be in a better position to figure out the long-term plan.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
It looks like a pretty complete 40. You have most of the bits and pieces. I think 1st you need to nurse it back to life. Get it running, driving and stopping, then drive it for while and see if you like it. To get it running I'd approach it similar to @charliemeyer007 's suggestions. Squirt oil in the cylinders and turn the crank by hand 2 full revolutions to make sure it's clear, b4 turning a key. Build oil pressure and setup a separate gas can.
fjwagon
SILVER Star
Locate an OEM repair manual, it will pay for itself and save on heartache when you are trying to figure things out plus you will have extra cash if you do it yourself. Fj40s are easy to work on and very dependable once you get them running right. I see great info has been already posted.
So I want to add:
1F and 2F are notoriously known to run hot so pay close attention to temp guage. Replacing the thermostat would not be a bad move while checking the cooling system. The fan clutch is pretty easy to check, when the engine cold the fan clutch will not spin if you hold in place with screwdriver before you start the engine or at least that is how i do it. This will be a good excuse to buy a remote starter. If the engine has met the heat threshold, the clutch will grab and will lock in place to spin the fan.
When you decide to change the oil, bring a big enough bucket that catch 6 quarts and it gushes out rather quickly.
There are many threads on which tools buy in case you are wondering what tool you will need.
Check you brakes by removing your drums, that includes the emergency brakes. I have been able to have the emergency brake drum resurfaced. Replaced the brake fluid.
Clean your grounds especially the one at the battery. If it has oem (incandescent) lamps in your cluster it will be super dim, cleaning the ground will help. You can also do a search on cluster lighting upgrade if you have a dim lighting issue.
Do not get too excited if the fuel guage does not work cleaning and reseating connector may fix it. Just know every issue you will run into has probably already happened and has been covered here. And by the way, congratulations on being a new owner.
So I want to add:
1F and 2F are notoriously known to run hot so pay close attention to temp guage. Replacing the thermostat would not be a bad move while checking the cooling system. The fan clutch is pretty easy to check, when the engine cold the fan clutch will not spin if you hold in place with screwdriver before you start the engine or at least that is how i do it. This will be a good excuse to buy a remote starter. If the engine has met the heat threshold, the clutch will grab and will lock in place to spin the fan.
When you decide to change the oil, bring a big enough bucket that catch 6 quarts and it gushes out rather quickly.
There are many threads on which tools buy in case you are wondering what tool you will need.
Check you brakes by removing your drums, that includes the emergency brakes. I have been able to have the emergency brake drum resurfaced. Replaced the brake fluid.
Clean your grounds especially the one at the battery. If it has oem (incandescent) lamps in your cluster it will be super dim, cleaning the ground will help. You can also do a search on cluster lighting upgrade if you have a dim lighting issue.
Do not get too excited if the fuel guage does not work cleaning and reseating connector may fix it. Just know every issue you will run into has probably already happened and has been covered here. And by the way, congratulations on being a new owner.
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brian
SILVER Star
What are your skillsets?
Pics of your toolbox please
brian
SILVER Star
Not YOUR toolbox, OPs toolbox...
(Nice set though)
brian
SILVER Star
had this been in another section, in another thread...it may have been a different "set".
- Thread starter
- #20
No hardtop sadly. Just the rear doors. Also have original floor mat and cool vintage Toyota rubber mat in the back.Congratulations…Before you head down the “Restoration Highway” I’d think about the “Spa treatment” first. That looks like a very nice 77 Original 854 paint code LC. I’m going to go out on a limb here and suggest that once you confirm spark, air, fuel and it it starts and stop’s, you just clean/shine/polish it up head to toe. It looks very solid and original. There are several good threads here that can get you started. @wngrog thas some very good threads Ref: “preservation vice restoration” that can get you started. Good luck with this…
When you have time, post some picks of the front floorboards, rear sill/bumper area and the rear bed.
Do you have the hard top?
