Builds Ikarus' HDJ81 Aussie-Style Build (4 Viewers)

[ikarus]

A few updates. For anyone who runs into the same problem with the 1HDFT airbox and intercooler piping interference that I did, it looks like there are two options:

1. Aftermarket airbox - I heard back from PDI and mine should ship in August but based on how long it took the intercooler to get through customs, I can expect it by September... so:
2. There's an earlier 1HDT lid that' still in production with the PCV inlet on the other side. Only $38 at Partsouq (plus $$$ shipping of course). Part no. 1770517010

Got a blank for the EGR Exhaust outlet and had my buddy tig up the EGT port. Also got a new gasket:

The distance from the plate to the wall of the exhaust manifold is about 42mm so we'll meet halfway with the probe

Makes for a pretty clean install though I know the ideal spot would have been right in the middle of the manifold. Anyone have any hard data on EGT temps for just cylinder 6 vs an average of all cylinders?

I impulse bought this steering shaft seal/bearing when I saw there was only one left at some Land Cruiser etsy shop. Reading up on it later though I think it might be a solution looking for a problem. Probably just gonna run the OEM dust seal instead.

And finally I was pleasantly surprised to see this show up today, IYKYK, I'm just happy I got this fire extinguisher mount.

My main issue is that it interferes with the floor mats, which are not flexible. So I'll either have to modify the mats, or more likely see if I can run it upside down.

I had this setup on my old 100 and it was great.

 

[steezy]

What’d you wind up doing with the brass fittings in the bottom left corner of this picture. Was kinda bummed PDI didn’t include any vac lines or instruction on where to run them…

 

[cgmud]

What’d you wind up doing with the brass fittings in the bottom left corner of this picture. Was kinda bummed PDI didn’t include any vac lines or instruction on where to run them…

Mine came with a small length of tubing that connected the two. It's pretty simple, though. One is used to connect to the stock vacuum lines. The other is used for boost gauge if you want it. Otherwise just plug it up.

 

[ikarus]

What’d you wind up doing with the brass fittings in the bottom left corner of this picture. Was kinda bummed PDI didn’t include any vac lines or instruction on where to run them…
View attachment 3378056

Yeah it depends on what you want to do with the vacuum lines. In theory you could simplify things and run one vacuum line straight from a brass fitting to the boost comp cap, instead of the stock configuration running through all the EGR stuff across the crossover pipe. I was actually just staring at my engine bay trying to map out what I want to do. I bought a few feet of OEM vacuum hose and I'm going to see how I can simplify things.

 

[ikarus]

Alright potentially stupid question of the day -

I need to run a little wiring into the cabin. This grommet on the firewall next to the brake booster has a couple of unused nubs. Is that exactly what they're for? Cut off the end and run wiring through?

 

[cmjtaco]

A few updates. For anyone who runs into the same problem with the 1HDFT airbox and intercooler piping interference that I did, it looks like there are two options:

1. Aftermarket airbox - I heard back from PDI and mine should ship in August but based on how long it took the intercooler to get through customs, I can expect it by September... so:
2. There's an earlier 1HDT lid that' still in production with the PCV inlet on the other side. Only $38 at Partsouq (plus $$$ shipping of course). Part no. 1770517010

Got a blank for the EGR Exhaust outlet and had my buddy tig up the EGT port. Also got a new gasket:

The distance from the plate to the wall of the exhaust manifold is about 42mm so we'll meet halfway with the probe





Makes for a pretty clean install though I know the ideal spot would have been right in the middle of the manifold. Anyone have any hard data on EGT temps for just cylinder 6 vs an average of all cylinders?

Where can I buy this EGR blanking plate? Looking to also install a PDI intercooler and junk the EGR.

 

[ikarus]

Where can I buy this EGR blanking plate? Looking to also install a PDI intercooler and junk the EGR.

I got mine here:

1HD-FTE / 1HZ EGR Blank Plate - HD Automotive

1HD-FTE / 1HZ EGR BLANK PLATE Stainless steel EGR blanking plate. Suitable for 1HZ and 1HD-FTE engine fitted with an EGR system from factory.

hdautomotive.com.au

 

[mudgudgeon]

I need to run a little wiring into the cabin. This grommet on the firewall next to the brake booster has a couple of unused nubs. Is that exactly what they're for? Cut off the end and run wiring through?

Yes.
Use a sharp blade to cut the end of the nub. Be careful not leave any nicks in it.
Cut the hole too small for the cable you want to get through.
Use a thinner draw wire/ cord to pull wiring through, wriggle and tease it through. Spray some brake clean ( toluene) on it to act as lube
Cut the hole small so the rubber stays tight around the cable, and seals around the cable. Cut it to small you disk tearing it, particularly if your cut leaves a nick in the cut edge.



Side note
My brother used to refer to brake clean or wax & grease remover as "Slippery" as in "pass me the Slippery".
it's used in auto body repair shops to lube rubber parts during assembly. Makes the rubber surface slippery until it evaporates. Great way to get radiator hoses onto outlets without force.

 

[steezy]

@ikarus so is my egt plate under the heat shield? I operated under the assumption that my truck was a non egr Jdm…

 

[ikarus]

View attachment 3379377
@ikarus so is my egt plate under the heat shield? I operated under the assumption that my truck was a non egr Jdm…

Looks like you don't have EGR? Yeah you won't have that port on your exhaust manifold. It's this pipe that connects the exhaust to the EGR valves -

 

[ikarus]

Yes.
Use a sharp blade to cut the end of the nub. Be careful not leave any nicks in it.
Cut the hole too small for the cable you want to get through.
Use a thinner draw wire/ cord to pull wiring through, wriggle and tease it through. Spray some brake clean ( toluene) on it to act as lube
Cut the hole small so the rubber stays tight around the cable, and seals around the cable. Cut it to small you disk tearing it, particularly if your cut leaves a nick in the cut edge.



Side note
My brother used to refer to brake clean or wax & grease remover as "Slippery" as in "pass me the Slippery".
it's used in auto body repair shops to lube rubber parts during assembly. Makes the rubber surface slippery until it evaporates. Great way to get radiator hoses onto outlets without force.

Awesome thank you! I appreciate the advice. I'm going to see if I can run EGT, exterior temp, boost and trans temp through there.

 

[cgmud]

Awesome thank you! I appreciate the advice. I'm going to see if I can run EGT, exterior temp, boost and trans temp through there.

What are you using for exterior temp gauge? I changed out my rear view mirror for one with auto dim and homelink. It would’ve been nice to have temp on it too.

 

[ikarus]

What are you using for exterior temp gauge? I changed out my rear view mirror for one with auto dim and homelink. It would’ve been nice to have temp on it too.

Toyota sensor. It'll plug into the Lutz Auto multigauge:

Multi-Gauge Clock Replacement for HDJ/HZJ80 (no obd2) | Lutz Auto

This completely plug and play multi-gauge is available for 95-97 HDJ80 with 1HDT/FT Diesel engines. This is a full featured touch screen gauge system that replaces the factory clock. This product is plug and play and uses addon sensors available separately. This multi-gauge accepts wireless...

www.lutzauto.com

Outside Ambient Temp Sensor Kit | Lutz Auto

SPECIAL NOTE: Any Multigauge Kits bought before 4/1/22 will need hardware changes to use this kit. Contact us to send your Multiguage in and we will update it for free. This external gauge sensor kit will allow you to add outside ambient temperature to your Lutz Auto Multigauge System for 80...

www.lutzauto.com

 

[SNLC]

Yes.
Use a sharp blade to cut the end of the nub. Be careful not leave any nicks in it.
Cut the hole too small for the cable you want to get through.
Use a thinner draw wire/ cord to pull wiring through, wriggle and tease it through. Spray some brake clean ( toluene) on it to act as lube
Cut the hole small so the rubber stays tight around the cable, and seals around the cable. Cut it to small you disk tearing it, particularly if your cut leaves a nick in the cut edge.



Side note
My brother used to refer to brake clean or wax & grease remover as "Slippery" as in "pass me the Slippery".
it's used in auto body repair shops to lube rubber parts during assembly. Makes the rubber surface slippery until it evaporates. Great way to get radiator hoses onto outlets without force.

I hate brake cleaner. It trashes paint and removes it. Not to mention it is really harsh on plastics, rubber and wiring.

I use an actual wax and grease remover that we put in a SureShot. Works good for everything even slipping on hoses and it is not very harsh at all. Plus we use it as final prep on everything we paint.

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

I hate brake cleaner. It trashes paint and removes it. Not to mention it is really harsh on plastics, rubber and wiring.

I use an actual wax and grease remover that we put in a SureShot. Works good for everything even slipping on hoses and it is not very harsh at all. Plus we use it as final prep on everything we paint.

Cheers

The wax & grease remover and the brake clean I have are both toluene.

I'm sure there's other secret sauces though

 

[cgmud]

Toyota sensor. It'll plug into the Lutz Auto multigauge:

Multi-Gauge Clock Replacement for HDJ/HZJ80 (no obd2) | Lutz Auto

This completely plug and play multi-gauge is available for 95-97 HDJ80 with 1HDT/FT Diesel engines. This is a full featured touch screen gauge system that replaces the factory clock. This product is plug and play and uses addon sensors available separately. This multi-gauge accepts wireless...

www.lutzauto.com

Outside Ambient Temp Sensor Kit | Lutz Auto

SPECIAL NOTE: Any Multigauge Kits bought before 4/1/22 will need hardware changes to use this kit. Contact us to send your Multiguage in and we will update it for free. This external gauge sensor kit will allow you to add outside ambient temperature to your Lutz Auto Multigauge System for 80...

www.lutzauto.com

Wish he made a pre 95 dash version!

 

[ikarus]

Wish he made a pre 95 dash version!

Definitely. It seems like a clean setup, I'm excited to get it installed.

There's been a little talk about a pre 95 model but I think he said it's on the backburner - on page 4

NEW 80 Series Multigauge Clock Replacement

Introducing the Lutz Auto Multigauge system for 95-97 FZJ80s. https://www.lutzauto.com/product-page/LTZ-80-OBD-SCREEN This completely plug and play multi-gauge is available for 95-97 FZJ80/LX450 with 1FZFE Gasoline engines. This is a full featured OBD2 compatible touch screen gauge system...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ikarus]

Spent a lot of time today reading up on the EGR system, BACS and SICS.

According to what I've read:

BACS is the Boost Altitude Compensation System. It uses vacuum (or the lack therof) to alter the movement of the boost compensator to decrease fueling when over 4K feet in elevation.

SICS is the Startup Ignition Control System. It similarly uses vacuum to deliver less fuel when starting up, for less smoky starts.

So I've decided to remove everything including the BACS and SICS VSVs. I live at 6K feet and mostly travel/wheel around 4K-10K feet. So I'll just run constant vacuum on BACS, simulating lower elevation, giving it more fuel, and tune accordingly. For SICS, I'll also plug in constant vacuum so it gets full fuel all the time.

In theory this should work. We'll see when I finally start it up in a couple weeks. @Rock40 had success with this setup in his epic 1HDFT conversion that I read through today:

Builds - Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

I believe the title says it, I'm going to begin a 24 valve 1HD-FT turbo diesel and matching 5 speed manual transmission swap into a USA model 1996 FZJ80 truck. A little background first: I've owned the 96' FZJ80 since January/2014 and it's been sitting in my shop ever since while I've...

forum.ih8mud.com

And on the Australian FB groups, those guys have removed everything. I love how simple the setup is.

The last VSVs:

New vacuum line:

old vs new

Recreated some of the stock setup - this is the vacuum pump segment:

Salvaged some T's from the old crossover setup. I'm going to have the line from the vacuum pump run up here, then T into two hardlines that cross the intake manifold:

SICS is the canister closest to the engine. BACS is the vacuum port in the middle hidden by the fuel line. Top is the boost comp cap.

BACS and SICS plugged into the two vacuum hardlines with new hoses:

I'll most likely run the boost comp cap up to the third hard line, then around the intake elbow to one of the brass fittings.

Not much I can do with all the extra wiring short of dismantling the entire harness. I'll just have to zip tie it out of the way or something -

But overall I love how much cleaner and more simple this is getting.

Before:

After:

 

[ikarus]

Working on placement of boost sensors. Removed the cowl to get better access - this is my favorite tool for this kind of limited access:

Pretty clean underneath, but the wiper linkage and bolts are pretty rusty:

I'm thinking I'll drill holes here since I can get behind and attach nuts and washers on the other side, and mount my boost sensor here -

And the OEM boost sensor over here since the existing wiring can't reach too far -

Or maybe I shouldn't bother about that one since I'll be overboosting all the time when I upgrade the turbo one day? Not sure.

Other than that, started working on the interior-

Tons of cleaning to do.

I'm going to pressure wash the carpets this week, got quite a few stains.

Found at least one open plug

And this purple mystery wire connected to nothing up front and an easy splice on the taillight loom. Took that out.

The last JDM wiring I need to remove is the Active Vacation power supply that went to the back. Looks like it T's into something under the steering column.

Removed the rear heater. I should have removed the hard lines when I had my exhaust off.

Checked on the blower under the glovebox. No debris but very dusty.

And the question of the day is... my rear seatbelt buckles are backwards. How would you turn those around?

 

[Dusten]

Instead of getting behind and attaching nuts, why not use rivnuts?