Builds Ikarus' HDJ81 Aussie-Style Build (3 Viewers)

[ikarus]

Just for another perspective, I decided to leave my 1HD-FT all stock. The original plan was to remove all the "extra" vacuum lines + gadgets and convert it to Aussie-spec.

I found out it's maybe not quite that simple. Toyota designed it all as a system.

Just my $.02

Yeah that's a great point, and I think that's the direction I'm heading. It's really not too bad when you understand it. I may relocated the VSVs and sensors that were on the crossover pipe, and cut new vacuum line and clean things up that way.

This picture of the 5th speaker looks almost exactly like mine. It had a small box (an amp?) attached to it. It was buzzing baaaad so I just removed it and threw it away. I saved all of the mounting brackets for later if need be. Glad to see you tackling this stuff. Any progress with the inter cooler?

Interesting. I think that's the sub, or was. Would be a nice spot for an accessory mounting system, maybe an air compressor. Wit's End makes one.

I need to get on the intercooler, I just keep getting off on tangents. I went to go disconnect the transmission lines but then decided to buy a new radiator, then realized if I was going to have the radiator off, that would be perfect timing to remove the fan and do the water pump and timing belt... you know how it goes

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Do them and know they are good, if no record of if-when they have ever been done. How long will it take you to do 150,000 miles? @ofer bruhis has logged many miles fast but most folks don’t. I have put barely 12,000 on my new 1FZFE in my 80 in 2.5yrs. They can go a lot longer than 150k, so do them as needed. More important to do regular oil and filter changes and fuel filters + air filter. On a couple old Nissan Patrol diesels I got new injection pump hard lines because there was visible corrosion in and on them. We do all new ones on our builds for this reason, not sure why Toyota specs them at 150k in 100’s. They didn’t on the FT and some people say it’s due to higher pressure of the FTE pump. Perhaps, I can’t say for sure. Again it is going to take a lot of driving once you do things like the hard lines and injectors. Pumps on the FTE can go for 500+k is what I hear. Dirt, debris and water is what will kill any injection pump.

Cheers

What is your suggested injector rebuilder today? My 1HDT is due for injector maintenance so I will need to send them in....or buy a brand new set for a premium $$$.

@ikarus - Looking good. Keep up the detailed work!

 

[Dusten]

What is your suggested injector rebuilder today? My 1HDT is due for injector maintenance so I will need to send them in....or buy a brand new set for a premium $$$.

@ikarus - Looking good. Keep up the detailed work!

Diesel Fuel Injection Services – Repair and Service in Scappoose, Oregon

Conveniently located in Scappoose, OR off Highway 30, we specialize in automotive, diesel and fleet repair and service.

dfispdx.com

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Diesel Fuel Injection Services – Repair and Service in Scappoose, Oregon

Conveniently located in Scappoose, OR off Highway 30, we specialize in automotive, diesel and fleet repair and service.

dfispdx.com

I sent an inquiry to them earlier today. Waiting on a quote. Thanks!

 

[Dusten]

I sent an inquiry to them earlier today. Waiting on a quote. Thanks!

From past threads it's like $600 give or take.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Figured out the rusty mystery bolt in the tire carrier -

View attachment 3360021

Might have to drill that out.

Try an Irwin bolt extractor kit first

They are a ****ing magic piece of gear. If you get the right size, it's amazing what they'll go onto.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'll be disappointed if this thread doesn't get renamed "Snowball - HDJ81 off road build"

 

[WiscoPat]

I'll be disappointed if this thread doesn't get renamed "Snowball - HDJ81 off road build"

That, or "While I Was In There, a Full Restoration Happened."

 

[logicbyondreaso]

From past threads it's like $600 give or take.

I got a quote from them - $150/ea. Looks like price went up since the last rebuild price share on MUD. I ordered a brand new set....

 

[thecapedcapper]

Very cool build! Do you by chance still have the JDM door window visors? I'm into weird JDM stuff like that

 

[ikarus]

Very cool build! Do you by chance still have the JDM door window visors? I'm into weird JDM stuff like that

I don't unfortunately. I actually like window visors and am looking for a new lower profile set. These JDM ones were old and sun baked and the adhesive had failed, there was really no way to get them off without damaging them.

 

[ikarus]

the 4th derailed me but I'm back to work on this. Cleaning up the valve cover - It's not perfect and I'd like to paint or powder coat that and the heat shield, but I'm going to save that for a winter project.

Finished pulling all the old coolant hoses. Heater pipes are looking good, rear heater is looking crusty:

Glad I'm doing this. Found some chunks of RTV or something just floating in the system

And the heater valve just crumbled when I took it out. Luckily all the pieces stayed in the hose and I was able to get them out.

Finally a question for the collective mud brain - transmission cooler routing. From this parts diagram, I'm thinking I'll have the RED line coming from the outlet (colors added by me) connect to the bottom of the PDI cooler, and the BLUE inlet line I'll connect to the top of the cooler. Sound right?

 

[cgmud]

that’s what I did. Except I retained the radiator lines to warm up the fluid. So I connected the red line to the bottom of the PRI trans cooler and the top of PDI trans cooler to the radiator connection in the same area.

 

[mudgudgeon]

the 4th derailed me but I'm back to work on this. Cleaning up the valve cover - It's not perfect and I'd like to paint or powder coat that and the heat shield, but I'm going to save that for a winter project.

View attachment 3369051

Finished pulling all the old coolant hoses. Heater pipes are looking good, rear heater is looking crusty:

View attachment 3369060

Glad I'm doing this. Found some chunks of RTV or something just floating in the system

View attachment 3369061

And the heater valve just crumbled when I took it out. Luckily all the pieces stayed in the hose and I was able to get them out.

View attachment 3369064

Finally a question for the collective mud brain - transmission cooler routing. From this parts diagram, I'm thinking I'll have the RED line coming from the outlet (colors added by me) connect to the bottom of the PDI cooler, and the BLUE inlet line I'll connect to the top of the cooler. Sound right?

View attachment 3369065

Eliminate both the red and blue lines . . .



Install a 5 speed and third pedal.


You're welcome

 

[ikarus]

Eliminate both the red and blue lines . . .



Install a 5 speed and third pedal.


You're welcome

Man I wish. I was just looking at H152s yesterday. How much $ do you estimate you would spend on parts in Australia for a swap? Assuming you do all labor yourself.

that’s what I did. Except I retained the radiator lines to warm up the fluid. So I connected the red line to the bottom of the PRI trans cooler and the top of PDI trans cooler to the radiator connection in the same area.

Awesome thank you! This radiator is for a manual so it doesn't have a transmission hookup.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Man I wish. I was just looking at H152s yesterday. How much $ do you estimate you would spend on parts in Australia for a swap? Assuming you do all labor yourself.

Depends on what you are sourcing.

If you're patient in finding a used H152
Box >$1k, upto $2k + ( there's strong demand for them)
Input shaft ~$400
Bell housing ~$250-300 ish.
Rebuild/small parts kit $300
clutch release fork $?? can't remember

New clutch and pressure plate kit ~$1000
Flywheel $???
Bolts maybe $30ish

Clutch pedal assembly and bracket $250

Master and slave cylinder, all hoses and hard line, new OEM $1K would cover it.

rubber shifter boots OEM. Under floor/console maybe $300ish new. I bought new boots a while back, can't remember cost but it wasn't huge.

Then you would need to modify or replace your centre console.

That's stacked nearly $5k in parts.

Someone in Aus could do better by patiently looking for used parts on gumtree or Marketplace.
Finding someone who's parting out a truck in their back yard could see a bunch of stuff bundled cheaper.

Some stuff I wouldn't even contemplate used while new is available.

Shipping to USA would require giving up at least one teste

 

[mudgudgeon]

The above estimates are all Aussie dollars.

USD buys about $1.50-ish Aussie pesos.

 

[ikarus]

Depends on what you are sourcing.

If you're patient in finding a used H152
Box >$1k, upto $2k + ( there's strong demand for them)
Input shaft ~$400
Bell housing ~$250-300 ish.
Rebuild/small parts kit $300
clutch release fork $?? can't remember

New clutch and pressure plate kit ~$1000
Flywheel $???
Bolts maybe $30ish

Clutch pedal assembly and bracket $250

Master and slave cylinder, all hoses and hard line, new OEM $1K would cover it.

rubber shifter boots OEM. Under floor/console maybe $300ish new. I bought new boots a while back, can't remember cost but it wasn't huge.

Then you would need to modify or replace your centre console.

That's stacked nearly $5k in parts.

Someone in Aus could do better by patiently looking for used parts on gumtree or Marketplace.
Finding someone who's parting out a truck in their back yard could see a bunch of stuff bundled cheaper.

Some stuff I wouldn't even contemplate used while new is available.

Shipping to USA would require giving up at least one teste

That would be the dream. Can you find H152s new?

I've swapped a few BMWs from auto to manual but this would be my first Toyota. Seems like it wouldn't be too bad on labor but yeah that's $$$$

 

[mudgudgeon]

Can you find H152s new?

Yes, the usual suspects can supply new H152, I believe only available in 79 series v8 configuration, so input shaft conversion is required.

You would still need to source things like pedal assembly used.

Most the other stuff is available new

 

[ikarus]

Got the radiator in today. I know I mentioned it before but this is a 1HZ radiator. The 1HDFT fan shroud lines up alright - the two bottoms tabs and one upper mount fit just right, but the other upper mount need to be relocated. Mine had conveniently already been done with a small L bracket by the previous owner because the aftermarket radiator I removed must have been for a 1HZ as well.

I threw on the lower cushions and figured it would be easy to drop in.... nah

I was sweating to death trying to keep the fan from gouging the fins and couldn't figure out why it kept jamming about 2 inches two high when I tried to drop it in.

YouTube and the FSM were no help. I figured out that the lower cushion mounts were too wide - the radiator was resting on the outer edges:

It was getting hung up on this rib on each side. I was afraid I was going to have to get out the angle grinder haha but really didn't want to compromise any structural integrity.

I ended up coming up with this: I could remove the mount for the radiator cushion on one side, then lower it in, rock it into place on the other side, then bolt the mount in.

Worked great. Biggest drawback is how annoying it will be to try to remove this radiator when the time comes. Is there an easier way and I'm just stupid? hahah wouldn't be surprised

Nevertheless the radiator is in and I began working on intercooler piping.

PDI instructions call for bending these brake lines back out of the way. You can see them touching the IC pipe here:

Clearance:

They also have you bend the air conditioning dryer but it's such a pain I think I need to get a relocation kit. I feel like I'm gonna break something if I keep bending these lines. And I'll need to drop the actual dryer so far you'll be able to see it under the bumper.