Not the best photo but you can see my bend on the right side. I was able to get it mostly out of the way. But yeah it is an annoyance.
Builds Ikarus' HDJ81 Aussie-Style Build (2 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #182
Nice thank you!
Did you need a new radiator or installed one due to clearance issues? Just curious why the 1HZ radiator instead of a radiator for the 1HDTFE.
- Thread starter
- #184
Didn't need one. I had everything apart and needed to replace the silicone hoses that were leaking so I decided to replace the aftermarket radiator with OEM. The old radiator was fine but this is just one of those things I'd prefer to be OEM.
They don't make the radiators for the 1HDFT any more so it's either 1HZ or aftermarket.
I've been considering replacing the radiator for my 1HD-FT. It seems to be fine but I don't know its age.
Are you saying the 1HZ radiator will fit? I'm sure it's not exact, but could be wrong.
- Thread starter
- #186
Yeah lots of discussion in this thread:
forum.ih8mud.com
It's the go-to OEM radiator for HDJ80/81s. Cruiser Outfitters stocks them. Main drawback is the lack of transmission cooling for automatics, but that's fine if you have an external cooler.
Fits great other than that funny little radiator bracket issue I had, and one of the fan shroud holes not lining up.
Looking for a high capacity radiator for my 91 HDJ81.
I’m looking for a respectable hd/high capacity radiator. 3/4 rows and maybe even a 3 pass. I’ve never overheated, but have gone up to 238-240°F over some long passes. It always comes right back down after the summit, but would like a little more capacity to not have the extremes. I’m on a Gturbo...
forum.ih8mud.com
It's the go-to OEM radiator for HDJ80/81s. Cruiser Outfitters stocks them. Main drawback is the lack of transmission cooling for automatics, but that's fine if you have an external cooler.
Fits great other than that funny little radiator bracket issue I had, and one of the fan shroud holes not lining up.
I was able to source a brand new OEM radiator with the transmission cooler from Japan. Though it was for the 1HDT.
Where did you find it?
Toyota 16400-17030 (1640017030) RADIATOR ASSY
Toyota 16400-17030 (1640017030) RADIATOR ASSY. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.
www.amayama.com
The OEM one with auto lines does remain an option should others want to go that route.
Excellent, thank you.Ordered it on Impex Japan about two months ago. Part #16400-17031
- Thread starter
- #192
Small progress continues. Buttoned up the valve cover - new gasket, new bolts:
And torqued to 57 in-lb
New oil cap gasket:
Bent the AC lines just a little more and spaced out the entire bracket by a couple mm with some washers:
Trimmed down the lower IC hoses using the old hose clamp guide method -
The instructions mentioned I might need dish soap but it's all gone together easily.
Then I realized I should orient the hose clamps so they can be accessed when the car is reassembled and all this is blocked by the grill and headlights, so I reassembled everything.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
And torqued to 57 in-lb
New oil cap gasket:
Bent the AC lines just a little more and spaced out the entire bracket by a couple mm with some washers:
Trimmed down the lower IC hoses using the old hose clamp guide method -
The instructions mentioned I might need dish soap but it's all gone together easily.
Then I realized I should orient the hose clamps so they can be accessed when the car is reassembled and all this is blocked by the grill and headlights, so I reassembled everything.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
- Thread starter
- #193
ACSD delete today. I'm using the kit from Back 40 Imports:
back40imports.com
Started out by removing a couple levers from the ACSD spring assembly to gain access to the two 5mm allen bolt. You also have to remove the upper allen bolt connected to the AC idle up / transmission bracket:
Diesel gushes out of the outlet behind the two lower allen bolts so have a bucket or something ready.
Remove the AC idle up / transmission bracket:
Remove the two coolant hoses at the back of the ACSD and you can remove it.
Mine looked fine but I'm glad to be simplifying the engine.
Installed the delete plate and new o-ring using the original allen bolts. The delete plate is slightly taller than the ACSD plate but it seems like there is enough thread engagement.
To finish it off, I'll loop the coolant hoses together with clamps and a two sided hose barb. Ideally it would be nice to delete those hoses but they also might be a nice spot for a Webasto coolant heater, so I'll leave them for now.
Also I saw that Harbor Freight expanded their jack stand buyback. They recalled the 6 and 8 ton stands I believe, but said that they would buy back 12 ton stands as well. I had 4x old 12 ton stands and exchanged them for new ones, cost me $12 after the buyback. Not bad. The new design seems much improved, with a locking pin and feet.
ACSD Delete Kit
All the parts needed to delete the ACSD (Automatic Cold Start Device). This is a better quality o-ring than the Toyota equivalent. 22790-17170, 22612-56350, 2261256350, 14610-74312, 1461074312, 2460223001, 24602-23001
back40imports.com
Started out by removing a couple levers from the ACSD spring assembly to gain access to the two 5mm allen bolt. You also have to remove the upper allen bolt connected to the AC idle up / transmission bracket:
Diesel gushes out of the outlet behind the two lower allen bolts so have a bucket or something ready.
Remove the AC idle up / transmission bracket:
Remove the two coolant hoses at the back of the ACSD and you can remove it.
Mine looked fine but I'm glad to be simplifying the engine.
Installed the delete plate and new o-ring using the original allen bolts. The delete plate is slightly taller than the ACSD plate but it seems like there is enough thread engagement.
To finish it off, I'll loop the coolant hoses together with clamps and a two sided hose barb. Ideally it would be nice to delete those hoses but they also might be a nice spot for a Webasto coolant heater, so I'll leave them for now.
Also I saw that Harbor Freight expanded their jack stand buyback. They recalled the 6 and 8 ton stands I believe, but said that they would buy back 12 ton stands as well. I had 4x old 12 ton stands and exchanged them for new ones, cost me $12 after the buyback. Not bad. The new design seems much improved, with a locking pin and feet.
- Thread starter
- #194
Replaced the coolant lines to the ACSD:
The upper one sucked. I considered removing the intake manifold just because there's such little access. But in the end I got it. Joined the two hoses together with the coupler included in the ACSD delete kit.
Replaced the coolant hoses behind the turbo:
Before:
After:
Replaced upper and lower radiator hoses. Upper was fine -
But on the lower, I ran into a problem. From the Partsouq diagram, I ordered 2x 9611110490.
It fits great on the radiator side, but on the water inlet side where the hose is larger it won't fit. This measures 50mm ID fully extended, probably need just a couple more mm to make it work. Any ideas before I just use a breeze clamp? Is there a slightly larger OEM hose clamp?
Working on wrapping up the intercooler install and ran into a snag there too. The pipe going to the turbo needs to route exactly where the intake PCV hardline is.
I have a PDI airbox on order so it's not the end of the world, but that won't be here til August or September. In the meantime I'm wondering if I should just chop off the hardline and plug the hole.
The upper one sucked. I considered removing the intake manifold just because there's such little access. But in the end I got it. Joined the two hoses together with the coupler included in the ACSD delete kit.
Replaced the coolant hoses behind the turbo:
Before:
After:
Replaced upper and lower radiator hoses. Upper was fine -
But on the lower, I ran into a problem. From the Partsouq diagram, I ordered 2x 9611110490.
It fits great on the radiator side, but on the water inlet side where the hose is larger it won't fit. This measures 50mm ID fully extended, probably need just a couple more mm to make it work. Any ideas before I just use a breeze clamp? Is there a slightly larger OEM hose clamp?
Working on wrapping up the intercooler install and ran into a snag there too. The pipe going to the turbo needs to route exactly where the intake PCV hardline is.
I have a PDI airbox on order so it's not the end of the world, but that won't be here til August or September. In the meantime I'm wondering if I should just chop off the hardline and plug the hole.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
But on the lower, I ran into a problem. From the Partsouq diagram, I ordered 2x 9611110490.
HZJ105 uses the spring type clamps.
The inlet pipe at the thermostat shares a part number for hdj80 and HZJ105, so I'd guess the same clamp will work. (Hose part number is different)
- Thread starter
- #196
Thank you! Just bought one.
Lol, I just bought the ACSD delete kit myself, probably do it when I get back home from TN. Thank you for the pictures.ACSD delete today. I'm using the kit from Back 40 Imports:
ACSD Delete Kit
All the parts needed to delete the ACSD (Automatic Cold Start Device). This is a better quality o-ring than the Toyota equivalent. 22790-17170, 22612-56350, 2261256350, 14610-74312, 1461074312, 2460223001, 24602-23001
Started out by removing a couple levers from the ACSD spring assembly to gain access to the two 5mm allen bolt. You also have to remove the upper allen bolt connected to the AC idle up / transmission bracket:
Diesel gushes out of the outlet behind the two lower allen bolts so have a bucket or something ready.
Remove the AC idle up / transmission bracket:
Remove the two coolant hoses at the back of the ACSD and you can remove it.
Mine looked fine but I'm glad to be simplifying the engine.
Installed the delete plate and new o-ring using the original allen bolts. The delete plate is slightly taller than the ACSD plate but it seems like there is enough thread engagement.
To finish it off, I'll loop the coolant hoses together with clamps and a two sided hose barb. Ideally it would be nice to delete those hoses but they also might be a nice spot for a Webasto coolant heater, so I'll leave them for now.
Also I saw that Harbor Freight expanded their jack stand buyback. They recalled the 6 and 8 ton stands I believe, but said that they would buy back 12 ton stands as well. I had 4x old 12 ton stands and exchanged them for new ones, cost me $12 after the buyback. Not bad. The new design seems much improved, with a locking pin and feet.
- Thread starter
- #198
Nice, it's not too bad but it's cramped in there. Helps a ton to take off the front passenger tire and remove the fender skirts so you can reach in.
- Thread starter
- #199
This is how I set up the intake manifold for the intercooler:
I need to relocate the intake heater onto this inlet so first I swapped over the longer studs from the turbo outlet that I won't be using anymore and added a new gasket -
At the advice of a few 1HDFT owners from Norway and some other cold climates, I'm going to disconnect the intake heater a) because it isn't absolutely necessary in cold weather, b) the solenoid is prone to catastrophic meltdown and c) I don't think the wires would be long enough to reach this new location and it would require a new ground, since the EGR system grounded everything previously.
I've left it intact, with the heater grid inside. I'll run this for the next winter and see if it really is ok. If not, I can easily reconnect it. If it's all good, I'll remove the grid for less airflow restriction. I don't think this will be a limiting factor until I upgrade the turbo.
One more gasket -
And the PDI elbow goes on.
According to the FSM, 14 ft/lbs for the 2 nuts and 2 bolts.
I switched around the hoses to find the best fit for this connection. I originally had a shorter hose from the intake manifold to the bent stainless piece and it was rubbing on the power steering reservoir.
Almost wrapped up on the coolant system - heater valve, new hoses and rear heater delete:
I bought more edge trim to run around the hole behind the headlights where the transmission cooler lines will be running:
Bought some 3/8 hose. PDI kit came with about 3 feet of hose but I ended up using almost 5 feet.
3/8 worked alright going on the cooler outlet but it was extremely difficult to seat it on the transmission hard line. Just a little small. I'd look for 10mm line if I had to do it again.
File this one under "overkill" but as the transmission cooler lines had to squeeze through some tight spaces and rub on metal, I wrapped them in hydraulic hose sleeve. It was a little large but I think it should work.
I need to relocate the intake heater onto this inlet so first I swapped over the longer studs from the turbo outlet that I won't be using anymore and added a new gasket -
At the advice of a few 1HDFT owners from Norway and some other cold climates, I'm going to disconnect the intake heater a) because it isn't absolutely necessary in cold weather, b) the solenoid is prone to catastrophic meltdown and c) I don't think the wires would be long enough to reach this new location and it would require a new ground, since the EGR system grounded everything previously.
I've left it intact, with the heater grid inside. I'll run this for the next winter and see if it really is ok. If not, I can easily reconnect it. If it's all good, I'll remove the grid for less airflow restriction. I don't think this will be a limiting factor until I upgrade the turbo.
One more gasket -
And the PDI elbow goes on.
According to the FSM, 14 ft/lbs for the 2 nuts and 2 bolts.
I switched around the hoses to find the best fit for this connection. I originally had a shorter hose from the intake manifold to the bent stainless piece and it was rubbing on the power steering reservoir.
Almost wrapped up on the coolant system - heater valve, new hoses and rear heater delete:
I bought more edge trim to run around the hole behind the headlights where the transmission cooler lines will be running:
Bought some 3/8 hose. PDI kit came with about 3 feet of hose but I ended up using almost 5 feet.
3/8 worked alright going on the cooler outlet but it was extremely difficult to seat it on the transmission hard line. Just a little small. I'd look for 10mm line if I had to do it again.
File this one under "overkill" but as the transmission cooler lines had to squeeze through some tight spaces and rub on metal, I wrapped them in hydraulic hose sleeve. It was a little large but I think it should work.
Yep, that’s the plan.
