I said no, never again.... (1 Viewer)

[riderjgs]

Wheel of choice for me...have run 'em for years. Keeps things in the Toyota family. Added bonus is a bit of extra width which aids fitment of larger tires. I took a set of rusty OEM chromes and had them professionally refinished in Cygnus White. Now have another set of OEM whites waiting for the next set of tires. I also ran a very nice set of chromes for a while but sold them. Much prefer the painted look myself.

 

[scorcher1967]

If/when this thing gets a full restoration, I floated the idea of keeping the FJ60 rims, but refinishing them either in Cygnus White or the same Argent gray/silver as the grill/vent/bumpers. Something that would tie it all together.

 

[scorcher1967]

It’s back. Tuned the new Weber carb. Last time, added the HEI dizzy.

Got tie rod ends and such inbound as well.

 

[scorcher1967]

Steering rebuild. We had a big problem getting toe in adjusted. Maxed out the tie rod adjusters, was still several degrees toe out. Thinking the FJ60 knuckles might have a slight difference in geometry. So, took 1 1/2 inches out of the center link, slugged and welded it, now it’s in the sweet spot. Steers and handles 10x better. Almost as good as an over loaded trash barge.

 

[scorcher1967]

More steering pics

 

[scorcher1967]

Old Man Emu lift kit going into Neveragain. Rear is done, gained 3.5 inches.

Directions left a bit to be desired. Trevor and I particularly enjoyed the simple sounding “Move rear mount back”. That bitch is riveted to the frame, and took 3.5 hours to remove, with drill, grinder, torch, carbide tip, air chisel and pneumatic punch, drift and ball peen hammer. PS, move it how far? What are we looking for? What is ideal? Move rear mount back.

 

[Megadoomer]

Well isn't it ideal to have the shackle angle away from the axle about 45 degrees? As I see it that gives the ride a trailing arm feel while a 90 degree shackle would send force to the frame more on compression.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Old Man Emu lift kit going into Neveragain. Rear is done, gained 3.5 inches.

Directions left a bit to be desired. Trevor and I particularly enjoyed the simple sounding “Move rear mount back”. That bitch is riveted to the frame, and took 3.5 hours to remove, with drill, grinder, torch, carbide tip, air chisel and pneumatic punch, drift and ball peen hammer. PS, move it how far? What are we looking for? What is ideal? Move rear mount back.

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Is this a kit that came from Cruiser Outfitters? Did yuh get the diagram showing part locations and the suggested hanger movement measurement?

 

[scorcher1967]

Is this a kit that came from Cruiser Outfitters? Did yuh get the diagram showing part locations and the suggested hanger movement measurement?

I think so, part locations yes, but no hanger movement measurement.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I think so, part locations yes, but no hanger movement measurement.

There should be a measurement on that same diagram. I'll peek at it Monday to be sure.

 

[J Mack]

There should be a measurement on that same diagram.

The diagram you sent me said 4. something to 5", I moved my hangers dead on 5" and the shackle angle looks perfect.
Looking at the pictures above the hangers looked to have been moved something more than 5" and the shackle looks pretty straight.

 

[J Mack]

That bitch is riveted to the frame, and took 3.5 hours to remove

When I remove frame rivets I use a 3/16" Short-Length Cobalt Steel Drill Bit part number 2416A19 from McMaster Carr and drill down about 3/8" into the head then use an air hammer with a flat chisel to blow the heads off. With the 3/16" hole in the center the rivet head comes off with just a few blows and it relives just enough stress in the body of the rivet that I can usually tap it out with a drift punch without much effort.
If it's hard to get leverage I will predrill with an 1/8" then come back with the 3/16" the save some time, I'll order new drill bits every time before I'll tackle frame rivets to save on the fustration of drilling with dull drill bits for hours wishing I had new drills.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[scorcher1967]

When I remove frame rivets I use a 3/16" Short-Length Cobalt Steel Drill Bit part number 2416A19 from McMaster Carr and drill down about 3/8" into the head then use an air hammer with a flat chisel to blow the heads off. With the 3/16" hole in the center the rivet head comes off with just a few blows and it relives just enough stress in the body of the rivet that I can usually tap it out with a drift punch without much effort.
If it's hard to get leverage I will predrill with an 1/8" then come back with the 3/16" the save some time, I'll order new drill bits every time before I'll tackle frame rivets to save on the fustration of drilling with dull drill bits for hours wishing I had new drills.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Yeah, did all that. Used new 1/8, 3/16 and 3/8 on each. Ground each rivet head flush, hit it with the air hammer, 3lb sledge with drift. I ended up having to step up to 1/2, drill the side rivets all the way out, the was able to air chisel the brackets off.

 

[scorcher1967]

The diagram you sent me said 4. something to 5", I moved my hangers dead on 5" and the shackle angle looks perfect.
Looking at the pictures above the hangers looked to have been moved something more than 5" and the shackle looks pretty straight.

Anyone got a picture of the correct shackle angle? Haven’t welded it yet, waiting to nail it down first.

 

[J Mack]

Anyone got a picture of the correct shackle angle? Haven’t welded it yet, waiting to nail it down first.

Just about on empty. Probably closer to 70 with a full tank.

 

[scorcher1967]

So, here are the instructions. One shows the shackle basically vertical, but no measurement.

The other shows “move rear hanger back”. Also no measurements.

It makes sense to have the shackle angled, but the diagram shows vertical. What do you think CruiserOutfitters?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Sorry, it looks like it cutoff some on printing:

I would move back the 5", tack, put weight on and measure angle and weld if it looks correct. 10-20* range unloaded

 

[scorcher1967]

Sorry, it looks like it cutoff some on printing:

View attachment 2005730

I would move back the 5", tack, put weight on and measure angle and weld if it looks correct. 10-20* range unloaded

Hah! That’s kinda funny. Much more useful with the extra info! Ended up moving it back 4.5 inch from stock to get 15*

 

[scorcher1967]

Couple more.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

That looks killer