I see. Did you look into using rotors from another manufacturer that were already in the 6x5.5 pattern? I know they make some big brake kits for the C10 that have rotors in the 13" range.
I Like Big Brakes and I Cannot Lie!!!
- Thread starter Dirty Koala
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Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #82
Give it a shot and see what you can figure out, an option for not needing to re-drill rotors would be good.
Honestly I am thinking about it, I really really like the mod. Silverado 1500's still come on 6x5.5 today, so I'm sure there are options out there that would work. I think that would be the way to go, as having to get your rotors custom drilled every time you get a new set seems to take away a lot of the convenience factor of converting to slip-fit rotors.
Do you think this would be compatible with a part-time mod as well?
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #84
part-time/Full-time doesnt matter, that is just what you have bolted onto the outside of your hub.
The drilling isnt hard once you have a template to use, but yes, it would be best if off the shelf rotors were available. This is where some of our cruiser vendors could perhaps produce an offering.
If there was a kit that included pre-machined hubs, and some 6X5.5 rotors, with the M14 studs as an option, I think that would sell like hotcakes
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Nice work guys. Sounds like a good upgrade.
So as far as the "pain" of having to re drill rotors, I feel it is a non-issue. these rotors will most likley last for the next 150k or more.. how often do you go through front rotors? My 07 Tundra is still on its original rotors at 124k and they are still in spec by a long shot.
Also the OEM quality of toyota rotors is top notch and I would not go with anything but these, One more thing, drilling rotors is super easy as the rotor material is soft cast iron and you dont even need a drill press to do it. Just use your new machined hub without wheel studs in it for the pattern and mark your locations with a centering punch. then drill all locations with a 1/8 drill to center the 1/2 drill to get your final holes. I went over with a 3/4 drill to dress the edges on both sides (chamfer) so all surfaces would mate without issue.
The next time you need rotors.. (if ever) use your drilled rotors for a pattern to repeat the process.
In regards to redrilling the rotors, Harbor Freight sells a set of transfer punches that would guarantee your punch marks are centered. Second, a step drill bit makes an excellent chamfer tool.
I know it's not THAT hard, but drilling the rotors is still a number of steps (as you just outlined), and there are a number of other advantages as well:
1. It would also allow someone to sell pre-machined hubs and make the kit totally bolt-on
2. It would allow people to run drilled and/or slotted rotors
3. Rotors with a single set of holes will be stronger than rotors that have been drilled twice (and basically have 11 holes)
Edit: Also my dad's OEM Toyota rotors started to warp on his Sienna around 75,000 miles, and there are people out there who drive hard and tow a lot that will go through rotors quicker
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #92
In my case, technically it’s 9 as two of them overlap.
And the reason I chose that offset pattern rather than the one @Cruzilla did, is because the larger holes to clear the 14mm studs would mean 3 holes would be siamesed instead of 2. His smaller stud holes allow only the single.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Morgan and Carl, Nice work! Once again, wicked jealous of your machining capabilities etc Carl! Will definitely be looking into this mod soon. Like Morgan, I think a slip fit rotor would be much nicer on it's own. Morgan, do you have a total cost estimate to do the conversion?
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #95
New OEM 4Runner Calipers & Pads plus a pair of 200 Rotors cost $540.
If you want to do the 14MM stud upgrade - then thats another $75 in studs (I got 30, enough to do the rear axles also). If you go that route, then you also need new lug nuts, I got a box of spline drive lugs from Method for $68.
So either $540 to just do the brakes, plus the cost of hub machine work. or $683 + machine work if you also want to do the studs and have enough studs left over to do the rear axles. All in, pretty affordable mod.
There are ways to do it cheaper also...used calipers, non OEM calipers etc.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
That's not bad, especially with all the new parts. Thanks
One could still sell a totally bolt-on kit that includes rotors. The work on the rotor is no more cumbersome than the work on the wheel hub
No reason both couldn't be offered as part of #1
Absolutely agree. When iLean did his last year (and frankly pioneered the process) we started looking at getting a rotor made to satisfy that exact need. I met with a couple rotor manufactures and discussed the proposition.. The manufacture could easily handle cross-drilled, slotted, etc rotors.
Seriously not worried about drilled rotor strength and warping, if you read how I bedded in the rotors and pads. Front rotors were FREAKIN hot and stayed that way for some time without any issues, plus there are numerous after market rotors with multi sets of holes in them for more than one pattern.
My 80 weighs in a 7k and 10 sets of 60mph to 15mph consecitvly puts an enormous load on the brakes!!
Some examples of multi pattern rotors
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This is the reason I chose a 1/2 inch drill, its a bit close to the wheel studs but my pattern was spot on so it went together smooth.
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
Morgan and Carl, awesome job!
Why 4Runner calipers instead of 200/Tundra calipers?
Couldn’t the larger 07+ Tundra/ 16+ 200 rotors be used? The still clear 17” Rock Warrior wheels.
Why 4Runner calipers instead of 200/Tundra calipers?
Couldn’t the larger 07+ Tundra/ 16+ 200 rotors be used? The still clear 17” Rock Warrior wheels.
