I Like Big Brakes and I Cannot Lie!!!
- Thread starter Dirty Koala
- Start date
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I just returned from the Machine shop, I dropped off a rotor so he could get exact measurements. Im having him machine .200 off the face so it will index without the ring. He had one done (rough) still needs to trim a few thousands so the other should be done tomorrow.
I'd have to check tomorrow. Morgan may have snagged the last one we had on the shelf? We have more due to us but stuff out of Japan and their California distribution is sllllllloooooow right now. We only stock the 1-1/16" T-100 variant as an upgrade for 80's, I've never stocked any of the other T-100 variants.
The '93 does have ABS, but not the cap switch.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #65
I believe Chris told me I snagged the last one the other day.
Not all 93's have ABS in the US fwiw, but all cylinders used on US models in 93 do have the reservoir mounted switch.
You dirty dog
All good, we are in the business of finding homes for new parts not letting them collect dust.
Got quite a bit done yesterday!
I got the hubs from the machinist and went to work!
-Replaced the Vac assist (brake booster)
-Drilled new pattern into rotors
-Cut ARP wheel studs to length (-3/4")
-Pressed in new bearing races (Koyo bearings)
-Mounted hubs to test fit rotors
-Clearanced dust shields to rotors (1/4")
-Mounted calipers to test rotor spacing (rotor is within 1/8" of center of caliper)
-Removed hubs and pressed in new ARP wheel studs
-Packed hubs and bearing with grease
-Installed wheel seals
-Installed hubs onto spindles, and set preload
-Installed hub drive flanges and torqued to spec
-installed rotors to take a pic!!
I got the hubs from the machinist and went to work!
-Replaced the Vac assist (brake booster)
-Drilled new pattern into rotors
-Cut ARP wheel studs to length (-3/4")
-Pressed in new bearing races (Koyo bearings)
-Mounted hubs to test fit rotors
-Clearanced dust shields to rotors (1/4")
-Mounted calipers to test rotor spacing (rotor is within 1/8" of center of caliper)
-Removed hubs and pressed in new ARP wheel studs
-Packed hubs and bearing with grease
-Installed wheel seals
-Installed hubs onto spindles, and set preload
-Installed hub drive flanges and torqued to spec
-installed rotors to take a pic!!
Well I have to say it was worth the cost of admission! I have eisley twice the braking power, I had more braking power even before I bedded the pads in. Pedal is firm and starts engaging brakes as soon as you start applying pressure (not spongey the first third of the stroke like before) I'm impressed!!
I would like to thank mryanangel and I Lean for all the legwork on this mod!
Bravo!!
I would like to thank mryanangel and I Lean for all the legwork on this mod!
Bravo!!
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How I bedded the pads and rotors
• Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
• Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
• The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
• You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
• Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.
• Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
• Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
• The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
• You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
• Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #72
I opted to ditch my dust shields, could you post up a couple pics of how you trimmed yours back to clearance?Got quite a bit done yesterday!
I got the hubs from the machinist and went to work!
-Replaced the Vac assist (brake booster)
-Drilled new pattern into rotors
-Cut ARP wheel studs to length (-3/4")
-Pressed in new bearing races (Koyo bearings)
-Mounted hubs to test fit rotors
-Clearanced dust shields to rotors (1/4")
-Mounted calipers to test rotor spacing (rotor is within 1/8" of center of caliper)
-Removed hubs and pressed in new ARP wheel studs
-Packed hubs and bearing with grease
-Installed wheel seals
-Installed hubs onto spindles, and set preload
-Installed hub drive flanges and torqued to spec
-installed rotors to take a pic!!
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So the 4runner rotors bolt on like the 80 right? So can we just bolt those on with the 4runner calipers? Or is the spacing off. Maybe I missed that
No, 4runner rotors will not work easily. They will require machine work to the BACK side of the hub, or caliper bracket spacers, or a combination of the two.
I did not trim the backing plates.. I cheated and used a big @ss cresent wrench and bent the upper lip away from the rotor.
The backing plate and rotor are the same diameter. The reason I red-necked it as I forgot to order dust seal for the back side of the hub (the one that mounts to the knuckle) and did not want to disturb the seal.. so I bent the dust shield vs cutting or reforming on a bench like I would normaling do.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #78
Negative, machine work would still need to be done, plus some caliper mounting bracketed most likely, then u are still left with rotors bolted to backside of hubs. One of the goals here was to make a slip fit rotor work.
What about running 4Runner calipers with 80-series rotors? What kind of work would that take?
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #80
Not an option, the pads would be hanging half off the edge of the 80 rotors. The other objective here was to get bigger rotors on the 80. 13.3” VS 12.25”.
