Oil change time. . .and what do I see ! ? (2 Viewers)

[Saito]

Something anyone who’s been here long knows to look for:

Two studs in the back were finger tight. Thankfully the nut hugger did its job . . .on one nut I guess. Preventative measures only go so far. Gonna get on ASR parts and get a new set. Snugged the remaining ones up and torqued them to 71ft/lb.

So here’s your reminder to check yours.

 

[LongDuck]

How does that even happen with the fingers of the keepers still in place? Did the stud unscrew from the hole AND the nut, such that the nut then just fell away?

...and your balls are dryer than a ghost fart (*don't take that personally)!

 

[Saito]

How does that even happen with the fingers of the keepers still in place? Did the stud unscrew from the hole AND the nut, such that the nut then just fell away?

...and your balls are dryer than a ghost fart (*don't take that personally)!

No idea. Just feel lucky that I noticed it before that last one came loose. Knuckles are full of moly grease. Seals are a couple years old(along with the rest of it). Just barely dripped any.

Think once the new hardware is in and torqued up, I’ll mark them and drill holes through the studs for safety wire like an aircraft uses. Then it can’t go anywhere even if it’s loose.

 

[baldilocks]

Something anyone who’s been here long knows to look for:
View attachment 3977424
Two studs in the back were finger tight. Thankfully the nut hugger did its job . . .on one nut I guess. Preventative measures only go so far. Gonna get on ASR parts and get a new set. Snugged the remaining ones up and torqued them to 71ft/lb.

So here’s your reminder to check yours.

My solution was to get the ARP studs and nuts from Front Range off road and torque to 110lbft. I do rechecks after adventurous rock crawling but only a few degrees of angle have I ever found one loose a few times. As an A&P I’m a believer in safetying fasteners but not in the case of these knuckle studs. More torque and regular rechecks fit the bill for me and should for you as well.

 

[Kernal]

Everyone has their own process but for those that haven't done it before here's one method for installing these studs, FWIW.

Before installing new studs it helps to super clean (old/dirty) threads, run a thread cleaning tap down the hole, clean the hole and the cleaning tap with solvent/acetone, run the (cleaned) cleaning tap down again, blow the threads clean with acetone, repeat, repeat, repeat until the the threads are squeaky clean, no short cuts. If the threaded holes are nasty I may also run a cleaning brush down to break loose any crud. Also fully remove any oil/crud from the studs. Only way IME to get the knuckle stud hole threads that clean is to take the steering knuckle off the axle housing. Yeah, OCD, but it works.

Then a couple of drops of your favorite thread locker (Red vs Blue, your choice) into the hole and on the threads of the new stud, torque the studs all the way down (not just girly tight). I let those sit 24 hours to fully cure, then install the cone washer and cleaned nut (with thread locker) and torque those down.

You can use a Loctite Primer/Activator (SF 7649 for example) applied first to the metal (more important for stainless steel, any plated steel component), let that dry before you apply the thread locker. You need to work fast once the thread locker is applied as things can set up in seconds with the Activator. Better to still wait 24 hours if possible for it to fully cure IMO.

When to use Loctite Activator with your Loctite Threadlocker

All metals are not the same in their characteristics. That is a widely known fact in the engineering world. And hence, they do not behave the same in how they interact with substances, in how they can be processed and handled etc. When it comes to bonding in general, and threadlocking...

www.henkel-adhesives.com

 

[Saito]

Update time:

Been feeling like I’d caught myself slipping on this one. That feeling’s gone now. The nut hugger did its job. Most of the stud is there up inside the knuckle. This happened over the last few months and about a thousand miles. Been wheeling it more than ever over the last year and a half and I guess this is just the price you pay when you’re doing that. Got some work to do now cuz the knuckle is coming off(was just gonna put the stud in and clean/torque it all up but new one wouldn’t go).

 

[alia176]

@Kernal nailed it, but do you know the torque for the studs? The FSM doesn't have this value but I think @cruiserdan came up with a rough estimated torque for the studs.

 

[Saito]

@Kernal nailed it, but do you know the torque for the studs? The FSM doesn't have this value but I think @cruiserdan came up with a rough estimated torque for the studs.

I don’t. Just snugged them up in the knuckle not gorilla tight. Appears there’s a tapered seat and the new studs have a green loktite compound on them . . .

 

[Kernal]

FWIW I tighten new studs just about gorilla tight, not enough to snap or twist them, but all the way down until the unthreaded section is fully seated
into the threaded hole ie: I don't stop as soon as the unthreaded portion first hits the edge of the hole, I keep going a bit. IIRC Cruiserdan has suggested maybe a max of ~45ft lbs for the M12 knuckle studs and that's probably close to what I've done (forearm torque meter) using a short 3/8" drive ratchet handle. Others will have their own methods/opinions/experience. Need to be careful IMHO however if using higher grade alloy steel studs, if you (over) torque the stronger studs too much the threads of the knuckle stud holes could deform or pull out.

FWIW I use thread locker even with OEM studs that come with the thread locker/sealer already applied, just a drop onto the threads in the open ended hole before the coated studs go in figuring that some of it will be pushed ahead of the stud. If the hole is blind (not open on the other end) you want to put the thread locker inside the hole as any excess will be pushed up through the small openings between the threads by the air pressure coming out of the hole as the stud/bolt is tightened down. With pre-coated studs you shouldn't need anything extra however.