That wheel style (15x6 or is it 15x5?) also came stock on the 85 4runner sr5. I still have mine
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I dont have a problem, you have a problem... 1985 4Runner (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jynx
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- Thread starter
- #22
Man, I jsut realized I need to update this thread.
Nothing really major, but there have been a few updates.
A few weeks ago I was tasked with replacing the headlights... sounds easy, but not. Grille has toncome out. To get the the grille out, bumper has to come off. To get the bumper off, front spring pins have to come out... a simple task turned into a big d@mn headache.
Spent the better part of a day figuring out how to get the ARB past these.
Day 2 finally burned out the bushings and pushed the pins out enough to get the bumper off
Out with the old and in with the new.
So finally was able to install the new head lights.
And while the bumper was off I decided to try and straighten the jacked bumper. Before & after.
The ARB is jacked, but I got it kinda sorted out and touched up the paint.
Nothing really major, but there have been a few updates.
A few weeks ago I was tasked with replacing the headlights... sounds easy, but not. Grille has toncome out. To get the the grille out, bumper has to come off. To get the bumper off, front spring pins have to come out... a simple task turned into a big d@mn headache.
Spent the better part of a day figuring out how to get the ARB past these.
Day 2 finally burned out the bushings and pushed the pins out enough to get the bumper off
Out with the old and in with the new.
So finally was able to install the new head lights.
And while the bumper was off I decided to try and straighten the jacked bumper. Before & after.
The ARB is jacked, but I got it kinda sorted out and touched up the paint.
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- Thread starter
- #23
So with the bumper sorted, I put in some fresh markers from fleabay and then installed the grill.
Unfortunately, my straightening had more adverse impacts. I had to rebend the top so the winch drum would clear and then I had to re-mount the control box to clear the grille. So it was good, but a pain.
So to get the bumper off, I had to burn out the old bushings and drive out the front pins. So new pins and bushings were ordered from Mr. T and installed up front. But while I had the sway bar off and had to pull the shocks off I discovered that the shocks are shot. And before I started all this I had pulled some measurements and the passenger spring is sagged over an inch compared to the drivers side, so....
UPS apparently lost or broke the "A" spring, so it's arrival is still TBD.
After a lot of searching, I was able to find a set of 5165s that were within a fraction of an inch of what the OME nitros measure out to. So 7.5" pin/eye with remote reservoirs will get going on with the new springs once the other spring gets here.
I pulled the hard top today and we got the soft top on. And we have some other misc things I've had squirreled away for a while.
We are taking it to the @ACC Toyota family reunion next month, so have to get things sorted ahead of that. I'd love to see if I can get some freon in the AC just to see if I can get it to blow cold air while we are tooling around the trails.
Unfortunately, my straightening had more adverse impacts. I had to rebend the top so the winch drum would clear and then I had to re-mount the control box to clear the grille. So it was good, but a pain.
So to get the bumper off, I had to burn out the old bushings and drive out the front pins. So new pins and bushings were ordered from Mr. T and installed up front. But while I had the sway bar off and had to pull the shocks off I discovered that the shocks are shot. And before I started all this I had pulled some measurements and the passenger spring is sagged over an inch compared to the drivers side, so....
UPS apparently lost or broke the "A" spring, so it's arrival is still TBD.
After a lot of searching, I was able to find a set of 5165s that were within a fraction of an inch of what the OME nitros measure out to. So 7.5" pin/eye with remote reservoirs will get going on with the new springs once the other spring gets here.
I pulled the hard top today and we got the soft top on. And we have some other misc things I've had squirreled away for a while.
We are taking it to the @ACC Toyota family reunion next month, so have to get things sorted ahead of that. I'd love to see if I can get some freon in the AC just to see if I can get it to blow cold air while we are tooling around the trails.
- Thread starter
- #24
Well, after 3 different tracking numbers and much confusion, the DS spring arrived yesterday in perfect condition. No idea what kind of stupid was going on with it, but it's here. I should pick up some new bushings and also based on my last attempt, I should probably get some new spring bolts because I'm pretty confident those are going to need to be replaced before I'm done.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
Where did you get those male spade terminals? Amazon?
Not Amazon. It was an electrical supply store I found online. I thought it was from these folks, Powerwerx , but it looks like they don't sell them a la carte any more. Get a hold of ToyotaMatt here on MUD. I think he can source them.
Edit: Try these folks Motorcycle Spade Terminals - http://www.cycleterminal.com/spade-terminals.html
You want the terminal with the locking tab.
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- Thread starter
- #27
Well now that both springs are at the party, I'll pick up some fresh bushings.
I started looking into how much work I was in for and found the passenger side lower u-bolt Plat is bent up, so I'm gonna have to bend it back just to get the nut off the u-bolt. The bolts look to be in good shape, so I hope I can get them off and reuse them.
I also have been trying to figure out some improvements for the radio and speakers. I got a set of pods with the warpig that were in the corner. I pulled them apart and redrilled the mounts so that I could rotate and mount them onto the rollbar in the rear behind the back seats.
I have to sort out the wiring into the housing since rotating them covered the original holes.
Plan is a new head unit, fresh 4" in dash, 6.5" in pods and a powered sub we had stashed in the barn in the back. Should do ok.
I started looking into how much work I was in for and found the passenger side lower u-bolt Plat is bent up, so I'm gonna have to bend it back just to get the nut off the u-bolt. The bolts look to be in good shape, so I hope I can get them off and reuse them.
I also have been trying to figure out some improvements for the radio and speakers. I got a set of pods with the warpig that were in the corner. I pulled them apart and redrilled the mounts so that I could rotate and mount them onto the rollbar in the rear behind the back seats.
I have to sort out the wiring into the housing since rotating them covered the original holes.
Plan is a new head unit, fresh 4" in dash, 6.5" in pods and a powered sub we had stashed in the barn in the back. Should do ok.
- Thread starter
- #28
Well, one step forward, trip and fall back...
So I got the 4runner up on stands and started tearing things down. First off the passenger side u-bolt plate was bent from a past hit, so i had to take a grinder to it to cut a break line so I could bend it to clear the nut.
Got the u-bolt off, then it wasn't much more to get the spring out. So it doesn't look much different.
And when I bolted the new "B" spring in...
I'm not pleased that a brand new spring has this much wrap under just the weight of the truck. Also, the truck still has a distinct lean to the passenger side. So I'm weighing the options. Since plan "A" is FUBAR, plan "B" is going to be to pull it back apart and put the DS spring in. The A spring is supposedly a little heavier rate, so hopefully it will do the trick. If not plan "C" will be to pull apart both the new and old PS spring and build a custom pack out of the two. None of which make me happy, but I'll figure it out.
I decided that knowing that I can take the spring off I now needed to move onto figuring out how to get the god-foresaken shocks off. Top nut no issue, but the d@mn bolt was rust welded to the sleeve and was not coming out. Tried heat, tried air hammer, tried BFH, tried combinations of them. The proximity of the design of the shock mount to the knuckle and brake lines make a resip saw useless, to tight for a grinder and I don't have a blue tip wrench, so my final solution was to use a tiny cut-off wheel on a Drexel to cut the bolt head and shank off, then I used a ball burr on a die grinder to chew the ends back far enough to finally wiggle the M'efer out.
Now to clean up the lower mount and find some new bolts.
You can also see the wrap of the spring over the axle well in the above.
So with that out of the way I could finally see how close I was on my shock selection. This was the highlight of the day.
I need to bolt the tire on to see if the resi's will work like this, but im thinking I will likely mount them to the frame just above the sway bar mount.
All in all, a good day. Hands took a beating and I have a lot if tiny metal shavings to clean up, but spring is on and shocks are going to work, so I'll call it a "W". Tomorrow, everything comes back apart and I'll see if the spring swap does the trick, or if I'll be building a new pack.
So I got the 4runner up on stands and started tearing things down. First off the passenger side u-bolt plate was bent from a past hit, so i had to take a grinder to it to cut a break line so I could bend it to clear the nut.
Got the u-bolt off, then it wasn't much more to get the spring out. So it doesn't look much different.
And when I bolted the new "B" spring in...
I'm not pleased that a brand new spring has this much wrap under just the weight of the truck. Also, the truck still has a distinct lean to the passenger side. So I'm weighing the options. Since plan "A" is FUBAR, plan "B" is going to be to pull it back apart and put the DS spring in. The A spring is supposedly a little heavier rate, so hopefully it will do the trick. If not plan "C" will be to pull apart both the new and old PS spring and build a custom pack out of the two. None of which make me happy, but I'll figure it out.
I decided that knowing that I can take the spring off I now needed to move onto figuring out how to get the god-foresaken shocks off. Top nut no issue, but the d@mn bolt was rust welded to the sleeve and was not coming out. Tried heat, tried air hammer, tried BFH, tried combinations of them. The proximity of the design of the shock mount to the knuckle and brake lines make a resip saw useless, to tight for a grinder and I don't have a blue tip wrench, so my final solution was to use a tiny cut-off wheel on a Drexel to cut the bolt head and shank off, then I used a ball burr on a die grinder to chew the ends back far enough to finally wiggle the M'efer out.
Now to clean up the lower mount and find some new bolts.
You can also see the wrap of the spring over the axle well in the above.
So with that out of the way I could finally see how close I was on my shock selection. This was the highlight of the day.
I need to bolt the tire on to see if the resi's will work like this, but im thinking I will likely mount them to the frame just above the sway bar mount.
All in all, a good day. Hands took a beating and I have a lot if tiny metal shavings to clean up, but spring is on and shocks are going to work, so I'll call it a "W". Tomorrow, everything comes back apart and I'll see if the spring swap does the trick, or if I'll be building a new pack.
- Thread starter
- #29
Plan "B" ftw.
Swapped the "A" (drivers) spring into place and gained about 1.5". The front now looks to be setting level. Measured from leaf to frame is almost exactly the same now. I went ahead and bolted on the new shock and finished up the passenger side.
Since we're getting ready to go on a ride in a couple weeks I pulled the sway bar off. Now to get the drivers side shock replaced and then if I have time I'll update the radio and speakers.
Swapped the "A" (drivers) spring into place and gained about 1.5". The front now looks to be setting level. Measured from leaf to frame is almost exactly the same now. I went ahead and bolted on the new shock and finished up the passenger side.
Since we're getting ready to go on a ride in a couple weeks I pulled the sway bar off. Now to get the drivers side shock replaced and then if I have time I'll update the radio and speakers.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Tire looks a little far back in the fender well
- Thread starter
- #32
@tmxmotorsports I noticed that, but i didnt change anything other than the spring, and the shock mount is perfectly aligned. I think the larger tires put it closer and thats why lots of folks move the axle forward. But perhaps not. I'll study on it.
@gnob i studied a lot on the springs. A and B and which was which. Everything i fou d said the A was left and B was right. Didn't seem to matter where the driver was, so not sure. Either way, it sits much better and if the other rside starts to give trouble, I've got 2 springs that 8 can scavenge from.
@gnob i studied a lot on the springs. A and B and which was which. Everything i fou d said the A was left and B was right. Didn't seem to matter where the driver was, so not sure. Either way, it sits much better and if the other rside starts to give trouble, I've got 2 springs that 8 can scavenge from.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
The spring eye to center pin location is usually offset can measure the springs and see if they are.
- Thread starter
- #34
I checked the OME install notes. Arrow toward fixed end is how they are installed. I'll check the measurements. Also, I think the angle of the tire and picture also make it look closer.
- Thread starter
- #35
So today we finished up the driver's side. My lovely assistant pulled the tire for me.
Then I tried to just back the bolt out. Nope. Smack with a hammer, nope. So I just went straight to the Dremel.
Then the ball burr made quick work of the rest.
Then we popped on the new shock and threw the tire back on.
I am very happy with the overall result. The front sits dead level side to side.
So next I'll be working on the new speakers I got, but decided I'd try fix something that been kinda bothering me for a while.
The drip rail on the passenger side has been jacked up since day one.
Body hammer and a few tweaks and we're much better than we started.
Not perfect, but way better than it was.
Tomorrow I'll start fiddling with speakers. Then I just need to do an oil change and should be ready for the Family reunion in a few weeks.
Then I tried to just back the bolt out. Nope. Smack with a hammer, nope. So I just went straight to the Dremel.
Then the ball burr made quick work of the rest.
Then we popped on the new shock and threw the tire back on.
I am very happy with the overall result. The front sits dead level side to side.
So next I'll be working on the new speakers I got, but decided I'd try fix something that been kinda bothering me for a while.
The drip rail on the passenger side has been jacked up since day one.
Body hammer and a few tweaks and we're much better than we started.
Not perfect, but way better than it was.
Tomorrow I'll start fiddling with speakers. Then I just need to do an oil change and should be ready for the Family reunion in a few weeks.
ntsqd
technerd
The HL's that started all of this look like Hella H4's? Are they just sealed beams?
How is ride fox vs ome?
- Thread starter
- #38
@ntsqd they are vision X housings that I got from marlin crawler that take a H4 bulb. I don't recall which ones I got for it, but they were a definite improvement. But for night driving, especially out here in the country, a little extra light is always welcome. I've put a set of amber diode dynamics SS3 pods on our daily's and picked up a set of flush mounts for the 4runner. Tonight I figured I'd work on that project a little.
The ARB sticker fell off not long after we got the truck, so I figured that would make a good spot. Taped and marked the holes.
Then using a combination of a grinder, jigsaw, die grinder, hammer and some pliers, I got a hole cut and sized. Then hit it with a little paint.
Then test fit the light.
The real trick is gonna be matching the other side so it looks right. Then I can build a harness and get a switch in the dash for them. The amber is definitely the way to go in my opinion.
Other than the lights, we just kicked it around this summer. Took it to a local off-road park over labor day. If we take it on many more of those trips, some t-case gears and a rear locker would be nice. Help offroad, but wouldn't hurt daily drivability. It's about time to drop the hard top back on for the winter.
The ARB sticker fell off not long after we got the truck, so I figured that would make a good spot. Taped and marked the holes.
Then using a combination of a grinder, jigsaw, die grinder, hammer and some pliers, I got a hole cut and sized. Then hit it with a little paint.
Then test fit the light.
The real trick is gonna be matching the other side so it looks right. Then I can build a harness and get a switch in the dash for them. The amber is definitely the way to go in my opinion.
Other than the lights, we just kicked it around this summer. Took it to a local off-road park over labor day. If we take it on many more of those trips, some t-case gears and a rear locker would be nice. Help offroad, but wouldn't hurt daily drivability. It's about time to drop the hard top back on for the winter.
Yes!! How did I miss this…miss the rig too.
Wow @jynx awesome work.
I’d buy this back if you ever want to sell!
