HZJ40 RestoMod v3.0 (New, improved, and now with fewer sparkplugs) (2 Viewers)

[Jdc1]

Amazing work.

 

[lelandEOD]

Now you see me...

Now you don’t...

 

[lelandEOD]

The Amazing Disappearing Crossmember!

 

[lelandEOD]

Fuel switching valve:

 

[1Fine40]

Wow! Awesome work sir .....

 

[jim land]

This build sucks, it sucks all my evening.
Very nice and solid work and nice details
Now all my things look like junk

 

[lelandEOD]

Lol. Well, I’ve learned a lot on this truck; both valuable lessons as well as painful ones.

I’ve got to get this thing back together because the wife wants me to build her a modded -55 wagon.

I’ve been working on exhaust. Just tacking everything from front to rear... one joint at a time.

Plenty of obstacles in my way... namely, the transfer case and frame crossmember.

 

[lelandEOD]

I played with several configurations and finally settled on a compromise. The trade off was in exchanging clearance between the transfer case and frame and how much the pipe hung down below the frame rail.

It took lots of tries to come up with this arrangement to clear the crossmember while saying above the frame rail.

I’m pretty happy with this

 

[lelandEOD]

@Will Van and others planning a Dakota Digital gauge install...

When you install your Dakota Digital ECU, I highly recommend adding some sort of quick disconnect to ease repair work. I recently called DD and asked them to re-silkscreen my HDX cluster and calibrate the tach stepper motor to a 4k redline (just a tad more appropriate for a diesel than the 8k redline the HDX originally came with).

I also asked them to reset the odometer to "0 Miles" to match the fresh motor. The customer service guy let out a long sigh and said that I'd have to remove the ECU and send it in with the cluster to reset the odometer. I must have said, "no problem" a little too fast which prompted him to comment on the PITA involved in disconnecting all the wires from the ECU...


3.6 seconds later...

The 4k tach looks great too.

 

[Will Van]

I had chance to skim your whole build thread last night. Wow! Fantastic work! Bravo!

I can’t believe you changed the motor 4 times.

I’m going to take my time reviewing your 1HZ rebuild thread. #EnginePorn

Edit: Also, can I have your 1HZ engine when you decide to change the motor for the 5th time?

 

[SNLC]

Interesting solution with the crossmember.

I have replaced the same one with DOM, so things could be welded to it. I am logging your mod in my brain though.

Cheers

 

[Will Van]

If you get a chance during mockup, will you snap a photo from this angle? I’d like to know about where the front face of the 1HZ engine pulleys (not the fan/clutch), lines up with the OEM shock towers.

 

[lelandEOD]

It’s dark and there are a lot of things in the way but I tried to do the best I could. On the second photo, I marked the center of the shock tower with a red line. It looks to be about 1 1/2 to 2 inches shorter than the set up you posted.

 

[Will Van]

It’s dark and there are a lot of things in the way but I tried to do the best I could. On the second photo, I marked the center of the shock tower with a red line. It looks to be about 1 1/2 to 2 inches shorter than the set up you posted.

View attachment 2181470View attachment 2181471

Thank you!

I actually forgot about the vacuum pump and fittings on the front of the 1HZ. If I deleted the fan and clutch, it looks like I would have plenty of room for the vacuum pump/lines if I mocked up based on the front of the shock tower bolt (green line)?

Obviously the best way to do this is to install Wayne’s kit with the engine, and then do mockup. I’m just trying to get a feel for the layout since you’re right in the middle of it.

Thanks again!

 

[Will Van]

@Will Van and others planning a Dakota Digital gauge install...

When you install your Dakota Digital ECU, I highly recommend adding some sort of quick disconnect to ease repair work. I recently called DD and asked them to re-silkscreen my HDX cluster and calibrate the tach stepper motor to a 4k redline (just a tad more appropriate for a diesel than the 8k redline the HDX originally came with).

I also asked them to reset the odometer to "0 Miles" to match the fresh motor. The customer service guy let out a long sigh and said that I'd have to remove the ECU and send it in with the cluster to reset the odometer. I must have said, "no problem" a little too fast which prompted him to comment on the PITA involved in disconnecting all the wires from the ECU...


3.6 seconds later...

View attachment 2179822View attachment 2179823View attachment 2179824






The 4k tach looks great too.
View attachment 2179821

What quick disconnect did you use?

 

[lelandEOD]

What quick disconnect did you use?

One of these bad boys. Deutsch HDP20 47-pin bulkhead connector

Amazon product ASIN B07GQSQYQ7

 

[lelandEOD]

I've long since decided I wanted an AC/DC inverter on this truck but wasn't sure where I was going to put it to keep it out of the way. Well, I found a good place to hide it.

The Tuffy console is overly deep anyway and I found a 1000W pure sine wave inverter that fit nicely inside. I made a template from the face plate and transferred the shape to the back of the Tuffy box. Now I've got easy access to the 115V outlets on the outside of the center console. The next job will be to cut an air vent hole into the bottom of the console to allow the exhaust fan to move air through the inverter with no restriction.

I'm going to make a little removable false floor for the console out of sheetmetal to keep anything from falling in or around the terminals/fan.

Then I'll put the homemade padded console liner (made from photograpy equipment padded velcro panels) back inside and no one will be any the wiser.

I not sure how much heat this sucker will generate so I didn't hop for a super expensive inverter... Only time will tell how well this setup will work.

I also mounted the remote power switch on the now-unused fuel separator cover. I'll be adding a solar charge controller to this cover at some point in the future as well.

I also mounted the remote power switch on the now-unused fuel separator cover. I'll be adding a solar charge controller to this cover at some point in the future as well.

 

[lelandEOD]

Set the pinion angle to 3° below neutral at the pinion end and tacked the perches.

I also pulled my fuel delivery system back apart and added a fuel pump bypass and check valve. This should allow the Denso injection pump to siphon fuel in the event that the lift pump fails. I didn't like the old arrangement because I had essentially built in a single point of failure.

 

[lelandEOD]

Finished up the AC/DC inverter install this evening.

...made myself a nice removable floor out of 18ga sheet metal.

 

[lelandEOD]

...a few more photos:

I’m looking for a 4”x6” grate or louvre cover to finish off the opening.






...you know, in case someone puts their head under the seat for an inspection.