HZJ40 RestoMod v3.0 (New, improved, and now with fewer sparkplugs)

[gifu]

cool build... I'm just starting to plan a 1HZ-t swap into my '77 FJ40.
question: I see you used Wayne's motor mounts and crossmember... did you also use his "custom" fan and fan clutch? I guess they are shorter so you can squeeze the motor further forward?
thanks.

 

[lelandEOD]

I did use Wayne's mounts and cross members. I did have to unfortunately add a 11/16" spacer between the cross member and transmission mount due to some sort of whackiness in fitment. I didn't use his fan shroud or clutch as I was able to just flip the standard 40-Series shroud upside down and modify it a bit to suit. The fan clutch on my truck is also a standard 1HZ unit, but I may end up playing with some other options as the weather warms if this one isn't able to keep the engine temps under control.

 

[lelandEOD]

The truck is back on the road and I've got 600 miles on the engine right now. My 8-year old has proven essential in helping me prime/bleed the brake and injection system.




I'm chasing down a (self-induced) fuel supply problem related to my overly-complicated fuel tank selector system. It seems that the 6-way Pollak valve is malfunctioning and occasionally returning fuel to the wrong tank... resulting in overflow from the filler cap. I've got another one on order so I hope to have it ship shape soon.

 

[SNLC]

I did use Wayne's mounts and cross members. I did have to unfortunately add a 11/16" spacer between the cross member and transmission mount due to some sort of whackiness in fitment. I didn't use his fan shroud or clutch as I was able to just flip the standard 40-Series shroud upside down and modify it a bit to suit. The fan clutch on my truck is also a standard 1HZ unit, but I may end up playing with some other options as the weather warms if this one isn't able to keep the engine temps under control.

If you have issues with heat, all tropical spec 1HZs came with a direct drive fan, ie no fan clutch.

Cheers

 

[DomSmith]

Looks awesome! I love that she’s holding back the smile on startup.

I haven’t had any issues with a Pollack valve for 15 years (knock on wood). Interested to hear what you find out on that.

 

[lelandEOD]

For those interested, here’s a synopsis of the fuel problem:

Setup:
•Running front primary and rear auxiliary Confer tanks

•Fuel flow is controlled by a 6-way Pollak valve mounted on the frame rail, upstream of the primary and secondary fuel filters

•Both tanks have in-tank low-pressure (5psi) fuel pumps installed; power is provided via a 5-pin fuel pump relay triggered off the selector valve Carling switch


The symptoms are as follows: when I select the front tank, the fuel pump is building up too much pressure and my gauge reads around 35 pounds at idle. To me, this indicates the in-tank fuel pump is delivering fuel to the engine but is unable to return it to the front tank. Now, when I switch to the rear tank I get the following symptoms: the rear tank provides fuel to the engine but appears to be returning the fuel to the front tank. I’ve now had two instances when running the rear tank the front tank suddenly overfills and spits fuel out the filler neck.

I’m pretty sure at this point the culprit is the selector valve but I’m not sure why it failed or even how it managed to fail in a way that resulted in the symptoms I’m describing. I’ll be conducting a post mortem on it once I have it off the truck and will keep you all posted.

 

[mdsims]

For those interested, here’s a synopsis of the fuel problem:

Setup:
•Running front primary and rear auxiliary Confer tanks

•Fuel flow is controlled by a 6-way Pollak valve mounted on the frame rail, upstream of the primary and secondary fuel filters

•Both tanks have in-tank low-pressure (5psi) fuel pumps installed; power is provided via a 5-pin fuel pump relay triggered off the selector valve Carling switch


The symptoms are as follows: when I select the front tank, the fuel pump is building up too much pressure and my gauge reads around 35 pounds at idle. To me, this indicates the in-tank fuel pump is delivering fuel to the engine but is unable to return it to the front tank. Now, when I switch to the rear tank I get the following symptoms: the rear tank provides fuel to the engine but appears to be returning the fuel to the front tank. I’ve now had two instances when running the rear tank the front tank suddenly overfills and spits fuel out the filler neck.

I’m pretty sure at this point the culprit is the selector valve but I’m not sure why it failed or even how it managed to fail in a way that resulted in the symptoms I’m describing. I’ll be conducting a post mortem on it once I have it off the truck and will keep you all posted.

Is it possible you have your front and rear tank return lines crossed? Obvious question but seems fair to ask.

 

[lelandEOD]

Dude, I wish it could have been something that simple.
Unfortunately, no, they are not crisscrossed. The new valve should be here tomorrow so we'll see what happens.


I

 

[mdsims]

Dude, I wish it could have been something that simple.
Unfortunately, no, they are not crisscrossed. The new valve should be here tomorrow so we'll see what happens.


I

I looked at the valve schematic a while back, and just seems hard to believe it could be a valve issue. I guess if a number of seals are shot it could mix chambers, but the design itself seemed pretty robust to prevent cross system bleed through. I assume you’re running the fuel tank vents independently, or are those manifold-ed together somewhere?

 

[lelandEOD]

I looked at the valve schematic a while back, and just seems hard to believe it could be a valve issue. I guess if a number of seals are shot it could mix chambers, but the design itself seemed pretty robust to prevent cross system bleed through. I assume you’re running the fuel tank vents independently, or are those manifold-ed together somewhere?

Well, you were right. The valve wasn’t malfunctioning... The problem was two-fold: I had the relay powering the fuel pumps out of synch with the selector valve AND the rear tank return line was pinched causing my fuel pressure spikes.

 

[mdsims]

Well, you were right. The valve wasn’t malfunctioning... The rear tank return line was pinched and That was causing my fuel pressure spikes. I am still at a loss as to how the rear rank was returning to the front tank. Maybe the Pollak valve has an internal pressure relief?

Glad you found it, and now you have a spare valve! If your vents are merged, in theory the fuel and pressure could use the vent system to migrate between tanks.

 

[PabloCruise]

Look how nice and tidy my fuse and relay panel look!!!!

View attachment 1660247



Oh Man! This is getting exciting!

Did you opt for the factory 60 fuse panel?

Relay panel is for headlights, eh?

 

[PabloCruise]

I'll be able to take some photos when I get the frame rolled back in in a month or so.

Basically, I found a set of frame mounted engine brackets on 'mud and used Grade 8 hardware to reattach it to the frame rails. I used the FJ62 front engine mount ears and 2F bellhousing ears for the rear. I did notch the front mounts and brackets in order to move the engine to the right (passenger side) about an inch. I also used a 3/4" spacer between the bracket and the mount on the front driver's side attachment point to level the engine.

It was not a difficult process. Just a lot of trial and error.

Can you elaborate on this?
I am wondering why you wanted to move the engine to the passenger side?
I guess I get wanting the engine to sit as level as possible - was it going to sit less level than it did in a 1988 FJ62?
Did moving the engine to the pass side mess with driveline angles?

 

[PabloCruise]

'CRUISER Resto-MOD 2.0



After almost two years of having the truck on the road, the urge to tinker overcame me. ...that plus the blown headgasket on the donor 3FE that popped last November. So, I started working on rebuilding the spare I had on a stand.

The long block rebuild is coming along but since the motor was out, I decided now would be a good time to clean up the wiring a little.

View attachment 1442459

Aha, there's the Porsche. It looked like you were into Porsche and/or BMW...

 

[PabloCruise]

...and hell, if I'm going full-retard, I may as well install air conditioning.

View attachment 1442464

I realize you did this work 3.5 years ago, but wondering about more details on what pieces you used to pull this off - what condensor, drier, etc?
Did you have a 3FE compressor from the engine? Did it have the manifold for hoses on it? Where did you get hoses made?
Thanks!

 

[lelandEOD]

Did you opt for the factory 60 fuse panel?

Relay panel is for headlights, eh?

Yeah, I opted for the 62 (and later, the panel from the HZJ75) to upgrade to the blade fuses and get all the positions I'd need for the added accessories.

The relay panel was for Hi/Lo headlights and the EFI switched ignition. Since converting to the diesel, I used the old EFI positions for power windows and central locking.

 

[lelandEOD]

Can you elaborate on this?
I am wondering why you wanted to move the engine to the passenger side?
I guess I get wanting the engine to sit as level as possible - was it going to sit less level than it did in a 1988 FJ62?
Did moving the engine to the pass side mess with driveline angles?

Hard to remember exactly... it seems that the 3FE engine mounting ears didn't want to line up with the F engine pedestals so it had to be massaged a bit for fit.

 

[lelandEOD]

I realize you did this work 3.5 years ago, but wondering about more details on what pieces you used to pull this off - what condensor, drier, etc?
Did you have a 3FE compressor from the engine? Did it have the manifold for hoses on it? Where did you get hoses made?
Thanks!

The A/C conversion is a long and sorted tale. I started the project when I rebuilt the second 3FE. I got as far as sourcing a condenser, evap, blower setup before deciding to swap for a diesel. I put the progress on hold while building/fitting the 1HZ. I've had the diesel powered rig on the road since March. I'm still sorting out problems and one lingering issue has been heat. EGTs and coolant temps have been a problem all summer so adding another heat producing system is just not an option right now. I'm thinking of tearing into it this winter to add an intercooler and maybe an oil cooler as well.

Once I get my tuning/cooling issues under control, the A/C project will be front and center. I plan to just use a standard Denso 1HZ compressor and fab up my own pressure hoses to connect it all together.

 

[PabloCruise]

...the wife wants me to build her a modded -55 wagon.

Are you going to start building an Iron Pig?

Might as well go diesel from the start!!!

 

[mdsims]

Can you elaborate on this?
I am wondering why you wanted to move the engine to the passenger side?
I guess I get wanting the engine to sit as level as possible - was it going to sit less level than it did in a 1988 FJ62?
Did moving the engine to the pass side mess with driveline angles?

Hard to remember exactly... it seems that the 3FE engine mounting ears didn't want to line up with the F engine pedestals so it had to be massaged a bit for fit.

One of the reasons for this was to help add some clearance between the intake manifold and the brake booster. Depending on booster selection, it can get pretty tight back there. Spacing to the passenger side with shims under the mount is pretty common on most of the old 3FE build threads I've read.