Hub preload woes (1 Viewer)

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jvincig01

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I’m having a heck of a time getting the preload dialed in. Long story short…. Completely rebuilt the knuckles… set the preload like the manual says, works smooth with 3lbs.

When I put the locking nut on and set to 58ft lbs, now the preload is around 9-10 ft
Lbs and out of spec.

One printout I have says set the locking nut to 33ftlbs.

Am I missing something? I followed the directions exactly but that darn lock but throws the preload out of whack.
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Not missing anything. Make sure neither of your nuts have wear on the faces that might affect tightening. You want the surfaces smooth on all 6 surfaces (so the inboard nut surfaces, locking plate surface and outboard nut surface).

Keep in mind, you want to spin the hub assembly after tightening each time. Then just barely loosen the nut, shouldn't take much effort to back the nut off.

Lastly, make sure you are paying attention to the variation of Inch pounds vs foot lbs, this is key!
 
What year axle are you working on? 76-79ish or 80+?

Or are you using 60 brakes/knuckles on the front of a 40 housing?

If you're using bigger than stock tires, I and many others recommend increasing your frictional force. If using smaller than 31" tires, stick with the stock spec. With greater than 31" tires, bumping your frictional force up will help compensate the additional weight.
 
Sound advice above by mattressking, I do remember sanding the surfaces by running against emery cloth on mine but they were roughed up. Double check your torques as mentioned above. Adjusting nut has low final torque vs setting values, nut jamming it has more the prevent adjustment changes on your preload. Lock/jam nut shouldn’t add to preload.
 
It says torque to 43ftlbs then back off, then torque to 35-60 inch pounds. Then if the preload is not within spec tighten the adjusting nut to proper preload.
 
What year axle are you working on? 76-79ish or 80+?

Or are you using 60 brakes/knuckles on the front of a 40 housing?

If you're using bigger than stock tires, I and many others recommend increasing your frictional force. If using smaller than 31" tires, stick with the stock spec. With greater than 31" tires, bumping your frictional force up will help compensate the additional weight.
early 80s Fj40 axle that had early 80s mini truck/pickup brakes and knuckles. I am upgrading to vented rotors and late 80's calipers, though.

i do run 31s mud terrains on stock wheels. good to know about the additional frictional force. thank you!
 
The 1st set of instructions says final torque to 18ft lbs.
 
Where are you getting 58ft lbs from those directions? I see 59 Newton meters. Or 43 ft lbs.
 
Does the lock washer have a tab in the ID that indexes with the slot on the spindle to prevent it from spinning?
 
Sorry for the confusion, all. Here is the first set of directions I have...

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Here is the second set of directions with different numbers.


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The 2nd set of instructions says to torque 2nd nut to 33ft lbs. It sounds like the inner nut and washer is spinning/tightening when your tightening the outer to 58. It's just a lock nut which is locked by the washers folding tabs too.
 
Both the 54's had some ding marks in them from the PO using a cold punch to get them free. I ended up bringing a file and some sandpaper to them to make them newish again. It worked because the final preload was 9-10 ft lbs instead of 15+. I am going to roll with it.

Thanks all!
 

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