HOW TO - Wiring to roof mounted lighting

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After installing my A-pillar mounted police light I'm fully aware of just how full the A-pillars are. I need to run wiring to the roof for my 40" LED light bar, 3 x LED camping floods and a cigarette lighter accessory outlet for the roof top tent.

How have you all done it?

I would also like to incorporate a watertight electrical plug/socket so that I can disconnect everything easily when I remove the roof rack, lights and attached wiring.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and PICS. ;)



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Here is the type of connection I was thinking of using to go through the roof somewhere. These are used extensively in military vehicles.



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That would be hard to deal with sticking down from your roof inside.
I'd consider routing the wire along the underside of the snorkel from inside the engine compartment, then jumper over into the roof gutter ( if you have one ). Then you could build a 3 piece harness, with plugs inside engine bay, and then right at the roof rack. Then you would have the option of removing the rack/RTT and just unplugging everything. It would also facilitate repairs.
 

that looks great but he would have to undo all the connections when rack is removed which leads me to the second post of the military plug. (JDEITCH's pic) I would suck up the fact of having the bulk head mounted and deal with a clean install that simply unplugs when rack is not needed
 
burnttoastburgos said:
Do you have a link to buy these??

Several on eBay. Search for 25A deck connector. I saw 2, 4, 5, and 7 pin versions available.
 
I ordered one 7-pin connector. The contacts are rated at 25A which is more that enough for each of the circuits going to my roof rack. I will use a dedicated positive and negative wire for 3 circuits. 6 wires total. One circuit for the LED light bar. One circuit for the LED flood lights. One circuit for the cigarette lighter accessory socket going to the roof top tent. Each circuit will be switched at the dash (I'm still working on an exact location) and independently fused. The light bar will also be controlled via a relay due to it's higher amperage.
 
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that looks great but he would have to undo all the connections when rack is removed which leads me to the second post of the military plug. (JDEITCH's pic) I would suck up the fact of having the bulk head mounted and deal with a clean install that simply unplugs when rack is not needed

yeah, you would have to unscrew each connection individually, but I can't imagine he's taking his giant rack off all that often ;)
 
Only one 7-pin connector required (See my earlier post). The rack, tent, and awning impact the already dismal fuel economy. I may be taking it off more often than you think if I can rig up some way to do it single-handed (A cable/winch system in the shop or something).
 
The electrical connector I ordered arrived. I now have everything to start on the wiring for the roof. I also completed the mount for the passenger and rear flood lights using RAM 1" ball mounts. I am very pleased with the results.



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Here is the type of connection I was thinking of using to go through the roof somewhere. These are used extensively in military vehicles.



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Are these easy to wire up....I thought a special crimp tool was required?

Lou
 
Luke111 said:
Are these easy to wire up....I thought a special crimp tool was required?

Lou

No special tool required. This connector has solder connections.

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I will TRY and find the time to get the roof top wiring started and/or completed very soon. Pics to follow.
 
Progress... It's too late to go back now. ;)

I spent quite a bit of time researching the best location. This spot has room under the headliner for added wiring and has access down the door pilar too.



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