How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (5 Viewers)

[PACK MULE]

Getting ready to tackle this job. Has anyone replaced the oil cover when doing this job? Reading through 30 pages and other threads seeing folks sanding it to get a better surface to mate up against the engine. Was thinking new cover would/should be better solution.

 

[Ballsie]

No need to over think it and waste money on parts you don't need. Just put the $6 seal in there. I can't imagine even having to sand anything, but Im sure there are trucks out there that were in worse shape than mine. I seriously doubt someone replaced their seal and it continued to leak until they pulled the cover and sanded it. They probably just thought it would help during the process.

Put a pizza box or something over your radiator so you don't screw it up while you are in there. And make sure you have a #3 Phillips screw driver head on a socket. Don't try to use anything else or you will be sorry. You don't want to strip out those screws.

 

[dharalson]

The talk about sanding was in context to an oil seal cover being warped or not flat any longer. In which case some were explaining how to check if the surface was true and then using sand paper to help reduce any high spots and bring the cover flat again.

As @Ballsie stated above just cover the radiator, be careful with the Phillips screw removal (I used the PZ or anti-cam version of the #3), tapped it a few times on each screw to unseat the loctite, take your time and apply even pressure when trying to back out the screw. May take a bit more time per screw, but will save you the headache of having to drill out a busted screw.

I also did add a little silicone grease to the seal to help hold it in place when installing. Additionally, I added a very thin coat of gasket maker (just be sure it's oil resistant) and avoid the groove for the seal (thought it's unlikely to cause issues - I'm just fastidious with that stuff otherwise it ends up all over the place and me.

40k since I did this work and the engine is bone dry from that location. Now I'm chasing down a drip from the power steering pump area and need to do another front axle seal/birf service - doh.

 

[fz1boxer]

when i am forced to do mine i was planning on replacing the phillips screw with flat socket cap so i can use an allen wrench if needed in the future

 

[dharalson]

That's what I did, because it was accessible as a good replacement for the phillips head. If I thought I would need to get in there to do it again at some point the torx head seems better. It's possible to strip the allen heads out as well, if you aren't careful.

when i am forced to do mine i was planning on replacing the phillips screw with flat socket cap so i can use an allen wrench if needed in the future

 

[2fpower]

Love seeing this thread from 2005 keep coming up. @Zane

Getting ready to tackle this job. Has anyone replaced the oil cover when doing this job? Reading through 30 pages and other threads seeing folks sanding it to get a better surface to mate up against the engine. Was thinking new cover would/should be better solution.

I would only be concerned if the pump blade has worn much from the inside of the cover.

 

[madisonr34]

Getting ready to tackle this job. Has anyone replaced the oil cover when doing this job? Reading through 30 pages and other threads seeing folks sanding it to get a better surface to mate up against the engine. Was thinking new cover would/should be better solution.

I had Valley Hybrids do my oil pump seal. They replaced the cover with a new one. Hope this helps.

 

[4G63 POWER]

Wow 12 years and people are still trying to use phillips bits? I figured you all would have learned by now and passed on the new updated information. They are jis screws and you need to buy a jis bit not a phillips bit. Makes the entire job painless and quicker.

 

[george_tlc]

^ JIS or Phillips = stupid fastener to use in that location.

I purchased and used a JIS bit to remove mine - still tried to cam out and still a stupid fastener. The JIS bit is not a magic solution to what is a bad choice by toyota in a limited clearance location. Of course it was easy for them to use when they were assembling the motor OUTSIDE of the engine bay...

The torx is a much nicer solution.

cheers,
george.

 

[PACK MULE]

Thanks everyone for the responses. Really awesome this thread has been going for 12 years. I have JIS bits, will be going back with factory screws since I have them from local dealer. Still on the fence for route to go to get loose. Figure clean, tap with hammer several times to get loose, maybe a bit of heat maybe not. PB blaster. Thinking about getting right angle impact driver. Will check on price for a cover, rather have and not use than wait. Plan on doing the plug that is around that same spot. Still need to source 3/4 drive breaker and socket for pulley nut.

 

[rolliges]

 

[george_tlc]

^ useful *IF* you have removed the radiator & 'stuff' and have direct access to those pesky screws

cheers,
george.

 

[4G63 POWER]

^ JIS or Phillips = stupid fastener to use in that location.

I purchased and used a JIS bit to remove mine - still tried to cam out and still a stupid fastener. The JIS bit is not a magic solution to what is a bad choice by toyota in a limited clearance location. Of course it was easy for them to use when they were assembling the motor OUTSIDE of the engine bay...

The torx is a much nicer solution.

cheers,
george.

It's not a stupid fastener it's the correct fastener. Guess why there is no torque value in the service manual? So you don't over tighten it. They are designed to only be tightened as tight as a jis bit will go by hand. That's it. A torx bit is easily over tightened.

 

[fz1boxer]

i have one of those impact extraction drivers only a shorter stouter version.
i have used it on stripped machine screws and it drives them out with ease,usually loosen on first impact.

 

[george_tlc]

It's not a stupid fastener it's the correct fastener. Guess why there is no torque value in the service manual? So you don't over tighten it. They are designed to only be tightened as tight as a jis bit will go by hand. That's it. A torx bit is easily over tightened.

Believe what you want - I'm sure folk that have had that stupid screw head strip agree with you too... I don't... It is a poor location for a JIS head when time comes to service the vehicle with engine/radiator in place.

cheers,
george.

 

[4G63 POWER]

Yes stripped because of using wrong tools and techniques. That's not toyotas fault. Actually aisin, since they make the part.

 

[george_tlc]

Toyota/Araco/whoever designed it into that location, therefore it is their error. I used a JIS bit to extract mine and on each screw even the JIS bit tried to cam out. It required hammer taps to reform the screw slots and several attempts with considerable pressure applied trying to prevent cam-out. Replaced with torx head screws for when I need to do the job again in 15 or so years.

You seem to feel that a JIS bit is a magic remedy, it is not. More than a few folk have had issues even with the correct JIS bit. And correct technique - it's a screw head, put the bit in and turn. Apply a bit of pressure. If each screw head is a challenge then clearly the wrong fastener head was designed in for service. I'm sure it was a good choice when building the engine on the bench, so just a good choice when servicing a decade or two later in the vehicle.

You also argue that it's the right fastener for this application since you can't provide too much torque, That can only be the case if the bit cams out... So, trying to remove the screws after they have 'baked' for 15+ years requires a lot of torque and it will cam out... You can't have it both ways - good because it can't over-torque but then also good when you try to remove...

Oh, news break, Toyota etal. has made more than one stupid design/implementation decision in their vehicles. If they were perfect then most of this forum wouldn't exist. There's a lot of things on my old patrol that are better thought out (even compared to the equivalent 40/60 vintage). What we try to do is improve what we can when we are dealing with the issues. Replacing a handful of screws with torx head for ease of future work seems pretty trivial to understand.



cheers,
george.

 

[4G63 POWER]

If a jis bit cams out you are not using the correct technique or there is gunk down in the hole. I recommend tapping in the #3 jis bit and you won't have any issues. Mine came out with a standard 3/8" ratchet and jis bit. I used a dab of any-seize on my new jis screws when installing them.

 

[cruiserdan]

I'm not sure what world you live in. I had my timing cover on the bench where I could actually get to the screws. I used proper tools in the correct manner and it was a difficult task. I would not like to fight those 20+ year-old fasteners with the cover on an installed engine.

I guess you must be better than the rest of us.

 

[ERG80]

Is there any reason not to use a little gasket maker when reinstalling this cover?